Winter mods check list please.

OK update!

Just finished the wiring mod!

And must say I`m well impressed.
Before I was getting 13.4v at idle dropping to 12.8v at 4k rpm with lights off, and 12.9 idle dropping to 12.0 at 4k with lights on.
Now I`m getting - 14.2 at Idle staying at 14.2 at 4k rpm!! with lights off, and 13.9 idle with 13.8 with lights on at 4k rpm!

Champion :thumbup

I just got rid of both plugs, alot less messing about!
Will post pics and update the list later when I get a spare 5mins :eatcorn

So heres a breakdown of RSV mods. Not all are neededn assess your own machine as to wether it would benefit.
Hope this helps some people...

Mod Name - Reason for mod - Whats involved - Have I tackled it yet - Pages discussed in this thread

Reliabilty Mods, mods to consolidate the RSV

Sprag Clutch - Bit fragile, a failed start can break it - Uprated part - No. only a really issue if starting is unreliable. Hence do the wiring/starting mods! :thumbup -



Brown connector - Resistance issue in the charging system. - solved by either removing or re-soldering the block connector - Yep, chopped mine out. Makes sense to just do it While doing the wiring mod -


Wiring Mod - Poor charge flow from Reg Rec to battery - Adding wires to the charging system - Yep, Much improved




BTx y14 Battery - better cold cranking power than the oem fitted one - Straight swap - Not yet, Starting is excellent since wiring mod, But I will. -


Starter solenoid - The OEM is a 50amp unit, When it really needs a 100/150amp unit. - (wemoto £25) - Not yet, But will be. -



Sidestand mod - The switch can/will fail cutting the engine . Bypass (can be done while keeping dash light) - Not yet, its on the list -


Uprated clutch slave - the seals go - Uprated unit (can just overhaul original ) - Yep fitted a pimpin MPL -


Consumibles on an RSV that usually need attention or worth checking, to get the best out them

Steering head bearings - Check, adjust, replace - Mine are good.

Suspension linkagage bearings - check, regrease or replace - Have been done.

Bobbins on brake discs - Can stop spinning, Meaning the disc is no longer floating. Gives a warped disc feel,very common on these. - Clean a free up bobbinsso all spin freely - Yep, much better! Mine were solid -




Suggested Performance mods, simple cheap(ish) tweeks to get the best from the RSV

Check the Airbox hat restrictor is removed. - A factory fitted resitrictor in the airbox - Remove. Most have been done- Already done -


Check if ECU wire has been cut - The OEm ecu has an open map and a closed map. The closed is for the airbox and exhaust restrictors in. _ cut a wire on ecu to releasethe open map - Already done -




Exhaust restrictor - In some models, the std can has a wielded restrictor in it - Remove or fit a proper can! - Mine rocks akras -




Stomp Grips - Personal prefernce - Improves connection with rider and bike - On the wishlist

Renthals or other if you like - as above - As above

Modded or upgraded airbox - The OEM is abit small and restrictive -either a cheap and cheerful sealed/evo tank type to keep cool induction and gain top end power. Or Open/renegade style airbox quite pricey and no forced induction but cool roar with midrange boost - Evo next on my list, Maybe try a renegade for the roar! -





This is a work in progress, any questions, correction or additions welcome, I have saved the original text file for the post so can update easy :thumbup Will be ading page referances soon!
Steve

Anal`s of time?? that an R rated movie?

Cheers man :thumbup
Hope it helps a few peeps. Forgot to mention gearing, will do that when I add page reference numbers

Who do I contact about that then? maybe you could be a dear and do it for me :devious

Lol,
Satchel man
to elaborate on Mak`s post. That is the "evo" style option (which I will be doing soon) Basically consisting of the original air box, with the lid cut away eveywhere but two strips either side which hold the filter down, and at ther front where it has to cover the gap, then sealed with some car door rubber.
Hey Mak595 what glue did you use to stick your rubber seal on with??

mak595 said:

Didn't need any, because its a car door seal, it's ribbed devious) on the inside to hold it in place, it took some getting on though...


don't forget to take the sound deading pad off the underside of the tank, you don't want that getting sucked into the TB's, jamming em open

Click to expand...

Ah cool handy. Is the ramp at the front also part of the lid?
Got a link for the size and type of rubber seal you used?

Yeah read about the foam under the tank. Can do without that!