Winter mods check list please.

of course the open map will be better. the open map (blue wire cut) is for open airbox and open exhaust.

you could also do the headers mod, airbox mod and get a chip from dr.rossi to get some more mid range power

Thinking about cutting the wire for the second map, don't haga rep's already have a chip fitted to suit the akro's??

sort of, header mod is to make a 2-1 system mimic a 2-2 ie more midrange

nope but feel free to buy me one :thumbup

cheers

When it got colder i was having the odd dodgy start. Readout voltage was thereabouts but then i had a really bad start and only just got it going. Put a new battery on and its fine, starting on the button every time now. So despite my doubts it was the battery after all

HI lads hope this is of some help

Side stand wiring mod
Easy buy the Aprilia by-pass connector block part number AP8124943 pic below from any dealer or use AF1



Or just trace back the side stand wiring to the connector block under the tank and disconnect the connector and on the main wiring loom,either cut and solder together the outer two wires (blue green tacer & brown green tracer) or bang two spade connectors on a short link wire and connect em up job done :thumbup
PLS NOTE the side stand light will no longer work.

Hot & cold plugs
In my opinion don't bother mate just use genuine plug's cos there may be ignition faults brought about by changing them.Its all about finding a balance between keeping the tip hot enough at idle to prevent fouling and cold enough at max power to prevent pre ignition.

But to answer you question mate

A hotter plug
keeps hot by keeping more heat in the tip of the spark plug (away from the walls and slowing down heat transfer out to the head) this is done by a longer insulator tip with less ceramic insulation.Its used for stop start town riding but down side is pre ignition and raised engine temp.

A colder plug
keeps cooler buy having more ceramic insulator allowing better heat transfer to the head drawing heat away from the tip.Its used for substained high speed use ie motorways but the down side is deposits may form on the insulator causing loss of spark.


Hope the winter tinkering goes well lads :biggrin

So what is the idea behind modding the sidestand....

Is it because it's a potential problem to cause the bike to be immobilised if the switch fooked up?

mak595 said:

So what is the idea behind modding the sidestand....

Is it because it's a potential problem to cause the bike to be immobilised if the switch fooked up?

Click to expand...

Yes mate its a potential problem

What will happen without any warning the engine will just cut out, ive had it happen when selecting 1st geat to pull away a few times (it gets anoying cos people think youre stalling it),when landing the front end after some one wheel action and when acceleration hard out of a roundabouts.

If you replace the switch as some people do there is no uprated part that i am aware of so you just end up delaying the fault for another day.

IMO its best to be safe and get it done.

Oooops forgot this bit

Its to tell the ECU the side stand is not down and prevent the safety cut out stopping the engine.(the safety cut out is to stop people riding off with the stand down which could cause an accident.

I would like to keep the light on the dash tbh, sounds like a accident waiting to happen with no light or cut out....

mak595 said:

So what is the idea behind modding the sidestand....

Is it because it's a potential problem to cause the bike to be immobilised if the switch fooked up?

Click to expand...

Yes mate it is. Faulty side stand sw goes ***'s up out in the country just bypass and it will get you home. Happend to a mate of mine on his Tuono he just joined to 2 wires together. Gets you home.

SteveR said:

Thanks for all the info Dalmation!

I seem to recall badger syaing there was a way to by-pass the cut out, but keep the stand down warning light on the dash??

Definitely not going to bother with the different plugs. Think the last guy put iridium ones in, but thats enough.

Click to expand...

It's my next winter mod on the list mate

In theory its only a case of along side the cut out mod supplying the side switch with an ignition feed,which will allow the dash pod light to work but get rid of that bloody cutout.
But every time i wander into the garage i get distracted , im a bit of a goldfish.

My best mod so far is fitting stomp grip to the tank, it made a big differance to me being able to move and control the bike, id def recomend it only cost around £40 and 15min to fit all you need is a hairdryer( the wifes of course :biggrin).



Have you done the headlight wiring mod it stops the dip beam turning off when the main beam is selected this is the link its very well detailed and only takes max 1hr. http://apriliaperformance.myfastforum.org/sutra2356.php.