Winter mods check list please.

SteveR1 · Nov 9, 2011

Probably going to put the mille away for hibernation this weekend, usually an all weather rider but it just dont seem right with this for some reason. Plus its already voiced its disgust at the cold weather by not start at my mates the other night, meaning after three 11ft darkies on the hill by his house (seems bumping isnt an option on these..), a call to the GF for a lift and messing about today with ext and charger...

So! Next year the mille will be properly earning its keep, with trackdays and at least one ride to and around south of france.
What I dont want is a repeat of the other night, thousands of miles from home.

The mission this winter is one of consolidation my friends!
What should I be doing, or checking if its already done???
I know alot of it may be reposts, but I haven`t worked on the mille yet at all really and dont know my way around it. So what I`m looking for is pics or links to what you think is a good description of each job. And adding to the list what you think is worthwhile to improve reliability and avoid/solve possible issues or being stranded far from home. Would be a nice referance point to have all this in one place for referance, thanks in advance for your input!

The list:
-Side stand switch (Heard they have issues and there are preventative measures?)
-Sprag (is it true they are noisy in some way if on the way out? And that there is an uprated part from another machine?)
-Wiring mods (I`v heard of re-soldering something as there is a resistance issue somewhere?? And maybe a mod to the charging system? Link or details?)
-Uprated battery (i`ll check whats in there, whats recommended?)
-Clutch slave (done!)

Anything else? SOme may have been done so tell me what I`m looking for and how I`d know and I can check :devious
As always cheers dudes :thumbup

mak595 · Nov 9, 2011

well, here is a start:

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=201706

Did my wire mods using the guide there

SteveR1 · Nov 9, 2011

Perfect :thumbup
Nice start thanks (hate that guys avatar! lol creepy)
I`ll have a good read for that tomorrow and start a bits shopping list :devious

theruck · Nov 10, 2011

regarding the sprag clutch from another forum

Sprag clutches from BMW, Ducati, CanAm and KTM also work and cost significantly less money than one from Aprilia on my side of the pond.

Here in the U.S. a sprag for the V990 engine purchased from:
Aprilia $349
Ducati $179
CanAm $143
BMW $115
KTM $89

I personally installed a KTM sprag in my 1999 (2000 USA) RSV Mile 6000+ miles ago and it is still working perfectly. The KTM part needs to be either flipped over and installed "backwards" (it does not have a flange that the Aprilia part has on one side) or you need to remove the sprags from the race and flip each one over to make it lock in the proper direction.

i heard that a BMW F650 sprag clutch fits into RSV but never changed it myself yet so somebody better confirms that

KTM Free-Wheel part number 58440026000

badger1 · Nov 10, 2011

Check dogbone and shock bearings, replace if slightly dodgy.
Do wiring to the stator, 3 yellow wires that sit between the engine V
Check the white block connector under the pillion seat for corrosion/heat
Replace battery with a YTZ14 BS
Replace solenoid with 100- 150 amp one
Check head bearings and replace if needed, the bottom one goes bad first.
Pull bike to bits and access all electrical connections, clean them and spray with ACF50
Do sidestand wiring mod
Make sure all disc bobbins spin freely
Change fork oil if not done for a while
Change brake and clutch fluids after the winter is over
Change oil/filter, check filter at oil tank, check spark plugs for gap and spark
Check and clean air filter
Take calipers off and make sure they are in full working order
Others are usual checks like brake pads/chain/sprockets etc.

Oh and buy a set of decent tools, no torque wrenches that measure in mm:nana

That should keep ya busy this weekend mate:thumbup

SteveR1 · Nov 10, 2011

badger said:
That should keep ya busy this weekend mate:thumbup

HA this weekend, yeh i`ll get my pit crew right on that!
That`l keep me busy alot longer than that!

So

-Dogbones/shock bearings. WHen you say check them... are you talking removing the shock? Because it works spot on (bike has 14k)
So unless they have a habit of suddenly having an epic fail resulting in ***** ride or being stranded, then I will probablmy leave them for now (unless you have a way of checking them without pulling everything apart...)

-Wiring stator mod- Is the this "THE wiring mod" everyone talks about with these? Got a link? or care to elaborate on what exactly needs doing, how i`ll know if its been done and why its worth doing??

YTZ14 BZ- Why`s this? does it hold more voltage? recommend a make? I`v got a varta in at the mo, will have to whip it out to check model.

Solenoid- Any 100-150? Again what the advantage of this mod? Can you recommend a part and a source? How will I know if mine is std or uprated already?

Pretty sure head bearings are good so far

Sidestand mod, think that link from the ruck may have that described...Will I be able to tell if already done?

Bloody disc bobbins, done em 3 times, still dont spin as free as the OEM ones i`v got in a box.

Excellent input as usual Badger, cheers buddy! :thumbup

mak595 · Nov 10, 2011

Wiring mod is so the reg/rec puts plenty of charge into the battery & the plugs don't overheat due to resistance. http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64758

150A Solenoid, you can get off griff £30 + p&p, greatly helps starting, mine was the original 50A, it should say on the side.

Bigger battery, again to help starting, 230 CC (cold cranking) if i remember right. Varta seems to be fav but i've got a http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MotoBatt-MBTX12U-Battery-Aprilia-RSV-1000-Mille-R-All-Models-1999-2010-/140634789760?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item20be7c9780 on mine atm

SteveR1 · Nov 10, 2011

mak595
Top man, spot on, exactly what I`m after

Thanks!

badger1 · Nov 10, 2011

Dogbone bearings can be checked with shock in situ, do a search on them, plenty of info re replacing them, at 14k they will need it if not done already, they are cheap to buy. Don't underestimate the importance of the shock linkage mate.

MAK595 covered the wiring mod and the better battery(Varta are Yuasa under different branding) and solenoid.

Head bearings, just check them to make sure they are not notchy, if so they are only about £20, just did mine on the Factory.

Sidestand mod will have been done if the engine does not cut out when the sidestand is down, the light will still operate though to let you know the stand is down.

Disc bobbins, i take the discs off and use a cordless drill with a pozi3 bit inserted, lube the bobbin with wd40 and stick the pozi bit in the hole and let the drill do all the work for you, lube and spin till they are clean and free, then clean properly and re install.

Go onto the AF1 forum and do a search for anything you are unsure off, or just pester us

irate

mak595 · Nov 10, 2011

Good shout about the disc bobbins, have to check mine, it's been a while since i sold my previous RSV so i'm still remembering/learning

badger1 · Nov 10, 2011

mak595 said:
Good shout about the disc bobbins, have to check mine, it's been a while since i sold my previous RSV so i'm still remembering/learning

Ever considered an RC8 mate:devious

SteveR1 · Nov 10, 2011

What is this AF1 forum I keep hearing about? It seems to be the fountain of all knowledge!

mak595 · Nov 11, 2011

badger said:
Ever considered an RC8 mate:devious

Just bloody sold one, to get my new plastic gutter/facias done on the house :cuckcoo

Hence back to a cheaper bike. still good fun though for not a lot of money, with plenty of bling:thumbup

anyway here is the link to AF1 site

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/

SteveR1 · Nov 14, 2011

Update...

Not had chance to properly take everything apart yet and wont until my car is back on the road as need the bike to get around (and got a feeling this may take some time/no pressure to get all back together on a deadline).

The sidestand switch aint done as bike stil cuts out, running, in gear clutch in if i put the stand down...

mak595- been reading through that link you gave me for the wiring mod... Most of it means nothing, and doubt it will until I actually take mine apart and see what they are talking about. But checked my readings from the dash ( to see if maybe it had been done) and at idle 13.4 and 12.8 at 4k (lights off) and 12.9 idle and 12.0 at 4k (with lights on).
So judging by that it needs doing. When i get it in my mums garage (I live in a flat, so no work space!) I will check the wires for heat and try get my head around what needs doing.
Few questions though, after reading all 11 pages!! A few guys reckon you achieve similar results by either just getting an aftermarket reg rec or just adding solder to the existing joints....
Thoughts?
Also when you did the mod did you go with leaving the original 30amp fuse where it is on the loom and running your two new posi wires through one new 30 amp fuse as the original poster recommends? or did you go with one of the later configs (as it was suggested that would create a 60amp total fuse load? arrghh???!!!

Ah also
Badger, service history reckons the shock linkages were stripped and regreased at just just under 5k (miles) ago. So i`m guessing should be fine. But did you say there was a way of checking without removing? if so, what is it?

SteveR1 · Nov 14, 2011

Couple more things...

Found a thread on the AF1 forum about bending the petals on the disc bobbins out so they float more. Anyone done this?

And

Badger cant find a thread about these three wires in the engine V, what does the mod do?
And if its worth doing, does it apply to a pre 04 bike like mine?

theruck · Nov 14, 2011

the brown connector mod you mean?

SteveR1 · Nov 14, 2011

theruck said:
the brown connector mod you mean?

Well the mod in the link mak595 gave me features a brown connector (with three yellow wires), which involves adding more wires and re-soldering to solve a resistance issue. But from what I could tell all the wiring involved in that mod runs the length of the subframe, as in all to the rear.
Yet badger mentioned something about wires in the V of the engine?? I assumed there was two separate mods ??

"Do wiring to the stator, 3 yellow wires that sit between the engine V"

Not even sure if I know what or where a stator is, my working experience with electronics is very limited

theruck · Nov 14, 2011

if so http://apriliaperformance.myfastforum.org/sutra28348.php

theruck · Nov 14, 2011

the older rsvs have the brown connector between the cylinders and the newer have it under the right hand seat i think

mak595 · Nov 14, 2011

SteveR said:
Update...

Not had chance to properly take everything apart yet and wont until my car is back on the road as need the bike to get around (and got a feeling this may take some time/no pressure to get all back together on a deadline).

The sidestand switch aint done as bike stil cuts out, running, in gear clutch in if i put the stand down...

mak595- been reading through that link you gave me for the wiring mod... Most of it means nothing, and doubt it will until I actually take mine apart and see what they are talking about. But checked my readings from the dash ( to see if maybe it had been done) and at idle 13.4 and 12.8 at 4k (lights off) and 12.9 idle and 12.0 at 4k (with lights on).
So judging by that it needs doing. When i get it in my mums garage (I live in a flat, so no work space!) I will check the wires for heat and try get my head around what needs doing.
Few questions though, after reading all 11 pages!! A few guys reckon you achieve similar results by either just getting an aftermarket reg rec or just adding solder to the existing joints....
Thoughts?
Also when you did the mod did you go with leaving the original 30amp fuse where it is on the loom and running your two new posi wires through one new 30 amp fuse as the original poster recommends? or did you go with one of the later configs (as it was suggested that would create a 60amp total fuse load? arrghh???!!!

Ah also
Badger, service history reckons the shock linkages were stripped and regreased at just just under 5k (miles) ago. So i`m guessing should be fine. But did you say there was a way of checking without removing? if so, what is it?

Check your voltage via a multimeter on to the battery for an accurate reading, mine was 14.4 after wiring mod, with lights on. Didn't check before mod cos of the fooked solenoid. i just followed the instructions on page 1 from the original poster, and put a 30A fuse on the new pos+ wires. you could go down the alternative reg/rec but you have to cut and solder the wire's anyway so might as get just do the wire mod. thats my thoughts anyway....

As for actually doing the wiring, it's straight forward once the tail unit is off so you can see the wiring, i just printed off the page so i had it to hand while doing it. Just take your time and work through it, 1 step at a time

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