Joined Jan 2011
336 Posts | 0+
Near Coalville Leicestershire
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1GwsbhHrBJc
Thank you, Garry. Figured Nob could use the least posts on my end. So I grabbed the quote and placed it here. And no, I do not claim to be an expert. Not even close. I run my own chassis testing. My own meguybeer tricks thinking out of that box like a mad one eyed frog. Balls to the wall and if I don't come back it was human error not the bike. Bike is setup for race before I put a mile on it.
Meanwhile, the front end initially was adjusted for its static setting before I put a mile on it. I have no idea who set this bike up out of the crate or what? I did not have, nor needed the pit bulls to setup the front end. I used the side stand and shook the front forks some. I really do not think it matters. The brake pucks will, move out or in, depending on that spin. It's way to subtle just like the polished exhaust tip or the air cleaner screen, the breaking-in of the drive chain. And might I add; that sloppy chain is looking good so far. Again, another subtle trick I learned on my own as with the handle bar feeler gauging.
I'm sitting here with so many tricks about to happen to that Tuono; the fuel pig is high on the list for this weekend. Pun intended, 'stay tuned.' See if I can pluck that 3-4k rpm stumble out of her.
I guess you are wondering what is going on? I wonder too. I am transferring over to the T, 2know watt I know from open loop [is not much], but I am having a ball with both bikes so far. I am going to deflour that messapee you'll see in the next post. She sure has some nasty spider webs all over that other bike, poor thing.
I'm afraid my little T for testing ms. eyesore is going to evolve into the same ugly eyesore. As you can see by the break-in rule I placed upon myself, I run her wet all the time. I do not use spray lube. I've got that other bike as my R&D proof, pick any part off the bike. I have a lot of fact from friction about some lube in a can. Every link I think is going to be pressure squeeze though my hand. I can clean this grease up with a paper towel; the grease is spent and is dry. Comes off that easy. That chain is scary low, so I will stop riding he, and begin the evolutionary steps to this bike is sneak up on the tune.
Do you see my frog eyes? YOu got me pegged or watt?!
When you get older, your skin thins. I had to get on my knees and look for something on the floor. Nice, right? http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s58/wazfst1tyme/kneejerkreaction.jpg That was a homemade wire harness catching the throttle [sticking half open] on the other 14. Imagine that ride. Totaled that sucker by grinding down the engine case. And oh by the way, you want to slide on cement. Less to dig out of the skin.
Anyway, on with the R&D. Every wire you see evolved onto another. Road test after road test for ever wire there is an equal and opposite shut my mouth kind of R&D. You have to follow me to understand what I am about to do to eyesore. She is about to receive; the wide-band box, the toggle loop in place where I am on the fly open or closed-wink-wink! Having that second bung in a different mid-pipe is going to tell all about some accel pot twist and now that front wheel can't stay down. I'm getting excited!!!!
Yes, mid-pipe [for that second bung], and a hidden race megaphone [slid down the one pipe] are on the way. That one fake pipe sound, (hear me roar), will be closed down so only the stock OEM pipe is the more quiet pusher outer. Kind of like a 2-into-1 on the fly. Spring load the tip in the back so the meg can be adjusted down. Oh, it's going to be mickey mouse. One thing it will have is sound integrity. So say my knees.
Every last wire works on that bike. Zero problems. Zero codes if need be = Hacked. Shift integrity is out of this world. Dumb japanese need to work on that one mapackage if I can hack into it no code. Fuckers closed down the CAN on me; I found a way in and blabbed it to everyone. No longer that option in the second gen. Now I shut my mouth and remain quiet. Follow the concepts if you can. They are coming hot and heavy. It's happening with the hobby hunt for tune in closed loop[hole-hacking].
Eyesore has yet to make a pop on startup, running, or at warm/hot idle. And I'm too lazy right now to get that puppy better tuned; sync wise. It's so damn close I wanna tune it by ear. I'll fail a few times, but I'll figure it out like I did with mule2 or watt little I know about these loops.
Yeah, to you it's ugly. To me, I am taking a knife to a piece of canvas and cutting the painting... Might as well be a wire slice. WATTs the difference. :lol
When you get older, your skin thins. I had to get on my knees and look for something on the floor. Nice, right? http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s58/wazfst1tyme/kneejerkreaction.jpg That was a homemade wire harness catching the throttle [sticking half open] on the other 14. Imagine that ride. Totaled that sucker by grinding down the engine case. And oh by the way, you want to slide on cement. Less to dig out of the skin.
Anyway, on with the R&D. Every wire you see evolved onto another. Road test after road test for ever wire there is an equal and opposite shut my mouth kind of R&D. You have to follow me to understand what I am about to do to eyesore. She is about to receive; the wide-band box, the toggle loop in place where I am on the fly open or closed-wink-wink! Having that second bung in a different mid-pipe is going to tell all about some accel pot twist and now that front wheel can't stay down. I'm getting excited!!!!
Yes, mid-pipe [for that second bung], and a hidden race megaphone [slid down the one pipe] are on the way. That one fake pipe sound, (hear me roar), will be closed down so only the stock OEM pipe is the more quiet pusher outer. Kind of like a 2-into-1 on the fly. Spring load the tip in the back so the meg can be adjusted down. Oh, it's going to be mickey mouse. One thing it will have is sound integrity. So say my knees.
Every last wire works on that bike. Zero problems. Zero codes if need be = Hacked. Shift integrity is out of this world. Dumb japanese need to work on that one mapackage if I can hack into it no code. Fuckers closed down the CAN on me; I found a way in and blabbed it to everyone. No longer that option in the second gen. Now I shut my mouth and remain quiet. Follow the concepts if you can. They are coming hot and heavy. It's happening with the hobby hunt for tune in closed loop[hole-hacking].
Eyesore has yet to make a pop on startup, running, or at warm/hot idle. And I'm too lazy right now to get that puppy better tuned; sync wise. It's so damn close I wanna tune it by ear. I'll fail a few times, but I'll figure it out like I did with mule2 or watt little I know about these loops.
Yeah, to you it's ugly. To me, I am taking a knife to a piece of canvas and cutting the painting... Might as well be a wire slice. WATTs the difference. :lol
With all the mid-pipe and matching muffler coming, I have to start wiring up the AFR system. First order of nuts and bolts mounting is to set the AFR any old place I like. That is the beauty of the glue option... No drilling!
I'm not sure if the meg will fit without removing both ends and gut it that way for space. I think I need a tiny gap at the end of the muff. Jam the mag as deep down the cheater pipe as I can. If not, 'Oh well,' as they say. Best laid plans and all that. The honeycomb is a tad more open is all and that is the second option if the meg fails to pan out. First try to circle out the honeycomb so I have a jammed tip more centered. 3 The braised chain master links can be bent out so as to hit the wall and become stable at a second point. I can then, 2 holes between the link plate holes, keep that pipe from moving, the side of the muffler looks untampered with except the safety wire coming out of the bottom and back of the can.
I'll have this setup as a toggled; where on the fly, I can flat out run open loop as a preset tune (((w/codes flashing))). If my cheater hack pans out and tunes under the radar without coding, my AFR needle will show that failure or success. If that stumble is removed via open loop, it means the ignition will be in a more twitch mode. And you sort of have to question if you want to go there with that kind of throttle. Oh, did you say map2 goes there in the twitch too?
Believe me, if you want to feel twitch, try it on a ZX-14, no sub-throttles w/hack. That is a pretty fun mod if you want to go there. What I am trying to do is find that happy medium of a specific tune. I can get a piss load of tune out of this bike right now, but I am after some answers no one can answer for me. Yeah, main reason I bought any closed loop bike I could live with. So, between the twitch, the stumble, the back brake :dunno thinkgie, and all that fail-safe mode, it's going to be a waste of a challenge but I am waiting for godot so who cares. I'm not hurting anyone I run lean & mean, right?
Keep the gas in the ground, no harm no foul. Until the parts come, eyesore only gets uglier, leaner, and meaner.
