Joined Feb 2010
60 Posts | 0+
Are we having fun? OK, so I finally got around to cross referencing some piston rods, pistons, In&Ex cams. Seems they have the same part numbers. Therefore, there is no stagger to the throttle bodies. It says to, but I need to see if that timing map is different than the front map as opposed to the rear ign timing.
I've painted the low screws and the t-body. I then scribed a mark to match where both ride in the factory tune. I come to find out the front is closed, the rear slightly open. I then proceeded to shut down both lows [OK, the one screw] and then balance them out by swapping the yellow hose to a vacuum gauge and then I tired the manometers. The manometer dialed in the better visual. But to test ride it, she now has that riding miss at around 3 to 4k rpm.
Now, for me to find out if that can be cleaned via a piggy box, say not a PC, but more a fuel stab with the 02 still in the loop. The beauty of this pig is that you can shut off the hi fuel trim and use the better stock map. Because I noticed between my reads, a PC pig'd Tuono, gets spanked up the power curve. Then all of a sudden, the pig beats it some, the OEM eats it some. The pig curve sort of loses steam and then comes back on again. Therefore, it's not consistent where that [pig] curve stays above the OEMap. Therefore, why should I "pig-2" (meaning map2 with PC or choice of piggy) if the OEM is showing weakness at pig-2.
More tune happens when I pull the snorkel. Big time wheelofts I can't wait! So, how come we seem to be on the same page and you are calling me chopstick orifice out the nose? Can't I be an old fart and romp the stomp till I die? :lol I keep learning about this bike and you keep bringing in troll photos? I bring in T photos? I could care less me selling you a phone <(I laughed at that one). Call your friends is one day; stab you in the back. So look out!
I've painted the low screws and the t-body. I then scribed a mark to match where both ride in the factory tune. I come to find out the front is closed, the rear slightly open. I then proceeded to shut down both lows [OK, the one screw] and then balance them out by swapping the yellow hose to a vacuum gauge and then I tired the manometers. The manometer dialed in the better visual. But to test ride it, she now has that riding miss at around 3 to 4k rpm.
Now, for me to find out if that can be cleaned via a piggy box, say not a PC, but more a fuel stab with the 02 still in the loop. The beauty of this pig is that you can shut off the hi fuel trim and use the better stock map. Because I noticed between my reads, a PC pig'd Tuono, gets spanked up the power curve. Then all of a sudden, the pig beats it some, the OEM eats it some. The pig curve sort of loses steam and then comes back on again. Therefore, it's not consistent where that [pig] curve stays above the OEMap. Therefore, why should I "pig-2" (meaning map2 with PC or choice of piggy) if the OEM is showing weakness at pig-2.
More tune happens when I pull the snorkel. Big time wheelofts I can't wait! So, how come we seem to be on the same page and you are calling me chopstick orifice out the nose? Can't I be an old fart and romp the stomp till I die? :lol I keep learning about this bike and you keep bringing in troll photos? I bring in T photos? I could care less me selling you a phone <(I laughed at that one). Call your friends is one day; stab you in the back. So look out!
I had some pig for my tea tonight. Mixed it with some pasta. Saw a map on a tv programme. It didn't pop or have any tubes attached to it but the cow jumped over the moon then stapped his friend the pig in the back. Oh how I laughed. Then I pulled my snorkel on and checked out the power curve of the pig. Oh that was stabbed by the cow. Anyway I filed a bit off the cows tail and stuck my finger inside his map2. I love keeping my cow bog standard and now I'm going to find a Porsche to race on the single track back lane which is upside down and blocked off. Good job that porsche driver doesn't tell me how to rev my cow.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5t7m0tzfCrA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDjemYkNjI4
It's funny how you find people that are going to tell Joey Dunlop how to work on his bike, then with the same breath, tell him how to go out and win all those races. Yeah, right! I have something for them then as if Joey needs any help. Enjoy the music. No bike, nor car can cut the chase on a ZX-14. Well, say in my little world, nothing has touched me yet were I claim defeat. I think the wrist has still got something for anything like give them a head start just to make a little game out of it... Don't bring that pile rr beemer with all that HP and not TQ. I don't wanna use my rear brake now.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDjemYkNjI4
It's funny how you find people that are going to tell Joey Dunlop how to work on his bike, then with the same breath, tell him how to go out and win all those races. Yeah, right! I have something for them then as if Joey needs any help. Enjoy the music. No bike, nor car can cut the chase on a ZX-14. Well, say in my little world, nothing has touched me yet were I claim defeat. I think the wrist has still got something for anything like give them a head start just to make a little game out of it... Don't bring that pile rr beemer with all that HP and not TQ. I don't wanna use my rear brake now.
Hear me out. I've got guys telling me [what they believe] are going to push more air in a ram situation so they need more gas. I just read that just now at another Aprilia website. And they are discussing installing the PC on the bike. The one guy was talking about if you have the bike on the dyno, you lose the ram effect for it, and I'm paraphrasing here, he says, "MORE AIR needs MORE GAS" kind of mentality. How can I listen to that kind of guy with PC knowledge and he has no clue of the fundamental move of the, 'Constant.'
So hear me out is my kind of tune. Say we have a room and a door. Now, if I were to port a head and do all that stuff, you would assume you are going to get more air, right? Well, I am not in the 'More Air Camp' as it were. If we are going to tune the T and you are going to bring some sort of fuel cutter to me tell me I need more fuel for what? Did you make the room bigger it needs more fuel?
Follow WOT I'm saying. I'm saying that there is the same amount of air headed into that cylinder chamber as if you ported the head and made the door wider. That is all you did was have the "SAME AIR" enter faster is all. I can't understand where I'm going to tune a bike that needs no extra fueling. If I make the door wider, I made the air enter sooner or faster. It's just a simple event change from replacing one small door for a larger door. So, my tune says I remove the snorkel opening is a restrictor. The steel mesh on the air cleaner is a larger door opening.
Show me where I need a fuel pig to create a faster event of the same constant. If you see where all these simple moves act the larger door opening. So, I don't know where you stand in this tuning business, but I do not know who to listen to but observe what you all say about this bike, this pig, and this way to tune that smoothing out of it. I won't need a pig unit will I?
Show me is show you the story as it unfolds. I think I know a little bit about the computer bike. Yes, I am madly obsessed with this bike you have no idea. It's just a sweetheart of a bike and you all badmouthe way it runs, handles, brakes but what you do not see is that obsolete dashboard is way too new for me to have fun with.
This bike is a challenge to tune to a crisp note. I'm going to try to do some moves that will fail or succeed. So far, my baby wheelstands with sorky in place. I'm going to sneak up on this tune, break-in miles per mod. She nork kill next is a killeripper of a T for (((Twitchy Throttle))) most of you fear to move on.
So hear me out is my kind of tune. Say we have a room and a door. Now, if I were to port a head and do all that stuff, you would assume you are going to get more air, right? Well, I am not in the 'More Air Camp' as it were. If we are going to tune the T and you are going to bring some sort of fuel cutter to me tell me I need more fuel for what? Did you make the room bigger it needs more fuel?
Follow WOT I'm saying. I'm saying that there is the same amount of air headed into that cylinder chamber as if you ported the head and made the door wider. That is all you did was have the "SAME AIR" enter faster is all. I can't understand where I'm going to tune a bike that needs no extra fueling. If I make the door wider, I made the air enter sooner or faster. It's just a simple event change from replacing one small door for a larger door. So, my tune says I remove the snorkel opening is a restrictor. The steel mesh on the air cleaner is a larger door opening.
Show me where I need a fuel pig to create a faster event of the same constant. If you see where all these simple moves act the larger door opening. So, I don't know where you stand in this tuning business, but I do not know who to listen to but observe what you all say about this bike, this pig, and this way to tune that smoothing out of it. I won't need a pig unit will I?
Show me is show you the story as it unfolds. I think I know a little bit about the computer bike. Yes, I am madly obsessed with this bike you have no idea. It's just a sweetheart of a bike and you all badmouthe way it runs, handles, brakes but what you do not see is that obsolete dashboard is way too new for me to have fun with.
This bike is a challenge to tune to a crisp note. I'm going to try to do some moves that will fail or succeed. So far, my baby wheelstands with sorky in place. I'm going to sneak up on this tune, break-in miles per mod. She nork kill next is a killeripper of a T for (((Twitchy Throttle))) most of you fear to move on.
Joined Feb 2010
60 Posts | 0+
Joined Jul 2008
1K Posts | 26+
OK...I'll bite
You come to the forum for info, and you choose to ignore most of it. e.g. 15T primary IS the way go....it's the cheapest thing you can do to improve the bike....but hey, you continue polishing, if that's your thing.
BTW....then comes the rear shock, rear brake, hose clamps, clocks, brown connectors etc...but I digress.
Your bike...your choice what you do with it....
I've only looked at the first vid of you arseing with your bars...wtf are you doing trying to set a gap under the bar clamps? IF you were THAT serious (anal) about setting up those clamps...then you would have used a torque wrench.
Nul points....and for that reason...as a bike tech......
YOU'RE FIRED
You come to the forum for info, and you choose to ignore most of it. e.g. 15T primary IS the way go....it's the cheapest thing you can do to improve the bike....but hey, you continue polishing, if that's your thing.
BTW....then comes the rear shock, rear brake, hose clamps, clocks, brown connectors etc...but I digress.
Your bike...your choice what you do with it....
I've only looked at the first vid of you arseing with your bars...wtf are you doing trying to set a gap under the bar clamps? IF you were THAT serious (anal) about setting up those clamps...then you would have used a torque wrench.
Nul points....and for that reason...as a bike tech......
YOU'RE FIRED
Technically, that is correct. You have product knowledge. And I mean, every last one of you sitting on one. You can either confirm or deny what I say. I am going by the book in so many ways. I'm trying to understand the product, yes. Want to help? I'm all about trying to figure out your bike problems. That is more a hobby for me. I'm a boring guy. My reach is kind of narrow, meaning, I only discuss bike tech mainly.
You said I refuse to ignore. I read the suggestion and processed, thank you. Remember, you said I ignore. I did not say that. I like the engineer's final process to the rear tire circumference. I am sitting on the fence watching many mods and choosing as I see fit for my style of riding. I do not question the engineering as presented. I think that gearbox is just the ticket. My rpm was right there for that poorshitea german made car you refuse to underestimate me, sir.
See, I spoke too soon. You are helping out with the product and thank you. Just the things that are most common *** in a nagging briefs breakout like a pimple on your rear end are the pimples on the bike I see... What's with the hose clamps? A one time deal or a special tool needed? It looks interesting. The rear brake I hardly use. Not a problem. If you mean bleeding? I would not even move that caliper off the bike to bleed it if that is what you mean. Too easy my way.
When you see those roadracers come into the pits all crashed fairing and all that kind of get the bike up and out of the pits again, say an endurance race? Do you see guys grabbing a torque wrench or a T-handle to get the rider safe and out again; all in some non-torque, fast fired up and out she blows! You do not expect me to think you would torque all that crash lever kind of change the bars to get back out of some 24/8/6 hour race kind of what are the pounds for my 8mm handle bar bolts, HURRY!
I agree. I'm not that good a mechanic. You refuse to watch my 'wax on' video to see I am more a test rider. Do you actually think I care about a shock or do I ride the piss out of the piles I've been on? They all bone stock they need a good sag and a screw out for some soft plungement; I'm done now to ride the **** out of it. Would you believe that my arms would go numb someone else sets up my clamp? My mirrors don't buzz even on this bike.
Ever hand build a bike no torque wrench? Handles better than out the crate don't ask me how. Ever setup the front end so it's all static, pound the brakes, now torque to spec? My rear chain is loose as a goose for break-in-no-whaa-whaa-high spots in my chains. I'm even breaking in the chain too. See how this honey dove responds already it can carry the front wheel as it is thank you.
You guys are young. I'm trying to stay alive by having a good squirt out the gate when the light turns green. Yeah, I look both ways just to make sure I'm not popped off by granny red light. Is that too much to *** for a bike, my gob beer mint keep your hands off?
You can mod and flop that rear brake until you open up your rejection plate, you should see WATT is on my plate. Mine is going to be a freak of nature for sure. It's is going to evolve likea dis ear. You wanna see ugly mess.
Joined Jul 2008
1K Posts | 0+
North Lincolnshire, UK
Joined Oct 2009
779 Posts | 0+
Sunny Suffolk
Well mate you've got a head start on us, your wrist has certainly got something :jack
:sucks
Joined Jun 2011
1K Posts | 2+
Near Welshpool
So getting back to head hurting or banging your head against that wall, did you follow my room concept? About all that volume of air moving at a different speed, not MORE air going in, but the SAME AIR CAMP or the same page I am on? Because if you think about it, notice the 'constant' being that lamba number always present. It runs in that 14.7 psi bubble as it were with that 0.0 to 5.0 volt signal.
If the More Air Campers had that concept going, we would have to swap the sensors to the larger volume would we not? But since this is a constant no matter the rpm, the 0 to 5v also remains a constant. Sort of how I see it. The mule as I call it, is now tuned to 15 AFR (the air speed screw to fuel ratio). This is key off; last memory [sniff] saved. I believe I showed a quick snip of the AFR in one of the vids. That was [email protected] AFR. A nice smooth sustained speed to monitor that water temp and all the rest. Bike runs fine to my surprise.
I believe once I install a second bung into 'eyesore' is watt this experimental bike is going to be; the header will pickup a sniff on it's own and the grunt hunt begins. Yes, I'm going to squeezer lean and mean out of it. No offense to your piggy/map2/sprocket suggestions. I appreciate the laundry list to choose from. I'll have that Madonna nose cone out of the front sniffer picker upper shortly. I think it has 4 bolts to move the snout out of the way? I did feel what felt like a cast in the frame? Sort of like a bridge to cut the air in two directions. Takes plastic to do that with a tube frame. Takes a cast frame like this to incorporate it. I sure won't bang it out if it is part of the frame. I might have felt Madonna's stage prop instead. Oh geez, I hope not.
Up to this point, I have something setting up on the bike so I need to let that cure before it moves. Notice, you'll find out I do not use too many bolts, nuts, washers kind of place more weight on my bike? You have got to be kidding me!? This is lightseatightsee me in your rear view mirror?
No offense to the de-twitchers. You did have a good bike. I heard the first Apes were the bike to have? Aprilia detuned the next year, someone complained? They took the twitch out some? Is that true? I'm sitting on a slower bike then? I mean, the air plugs were a given. It's that map I am losing my mind about. Oh, maybe that room concept was not so well receive or more that head bang kind of read down to here? How about the snork/air cleaner screen/plug the air box from open air. I have that covered for a faster event that is about to happen. I did not port the head either. I did though, removed the door, or the snorkiss forking bike is going to haul my fat *** a little fast tear is coming to my eye this bike is so sweet!
If the More Air Campers had that concept going, we would have to swap the sensors to the larger volume would we not? But since this is a constant no matter the rpm, the 0 to 5v also remains a constant. Sort of how I see it. The mule as I call it, is now tuned to 15 AFR (the air speed screw to fuel ratio). This is key off; last memory [sniff] saved. I believe I showed a quick snip of the AFR in one of the vids. That was [email protected] AFR. A nice smooth sustained speed to monitor that water temp and all the rest. Bike runs fine to my surprise.
I believe once I install a second bung into 'eyesore' is watt this experimental bike is going to be; the header will pickup a sniff on it's own and the grunt hunt begins. Yes, I'm going to squeezer lean and mean out of it. No offense to your piggy/map2/sprocket suggestions. I appreciate the laundry list to choose from. I'll have that Madonna nose cone out of the front sniffer picker upper shortly. I think it has 4 bolts to move the snout out of the way? I did feel what felt like a cast in the frame? Sort of like a bridge to cut the air in two directions. Takes plastic to do that with a tube frame. Takes a cast frame like this to incorporate it. I sure won't bang it out if it is part of the frame. I might have felt Madonna's stage prop instead. Oh geez, I hope not.
Up to this point, I have something setting up on the bike so I need to let that cure before it moves. Notice, you'll find out I do not use too many bolts, nuts, washers kind of place more weight on my bike? You have got to be kidding me!? This is lightseatightsee me in your rear view mirror?
No offense to the de-twitchers. You did have a good bike. I heard the first Apes were the bike to have? Aprilia detuned the next year, someone complained? They took the twitch out some? Is that true? I'm sitting on a slower bike then? I mean, the air plugs were a given. It's that map I am losing my mind about. Oh, maybe that room concept was not so well receive or more that head bang kind of read down to here? How about the snork/air cleaner screen/plug the air box from open air. I have that covered for a faster event that is about to happen. I did not port the head either. I did though, removed the door, or the snorkiss forking bike is going to haul my fat *** a little fast tear is coming to my eye this bike is so sweet!
