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Kicking back..

It's easy to get lost in the woods with faults like this. You have to focus in on what is different from a hot or cold start.

If your eliminating the sprag or a mechanical fault then the differences are injector duration (rich mixture) and ignition advance. Your Ecu will base those on the readings from the sensors i mentioned before. The diags will only pick up a high or low voltage condition from those but nothing inbetween. When my temp semsor went my dash read 320 degrees but threw no error codes. You've eliminated the obvious now you have to start thinking out of the box a little.

You could try unplugging the air temp sensor and atmos sensor for a starter. The ecu assumes a middle of the road air pressure and temp reading if the actual reading is not present. (18 degrees, 400hpa i think from memory) Provided you do it on a mildish day in your garage the temp won't be hugely out. It will throw a code but will run withoiut them, if there is no change eliminate them as a problem. The Tps you can only set with the axone on gen11's but unless you have had some throttle body work it should be fine. But if the throttle learning is out that will effect cold starts as tps reading also effect the advance and duration on cold starts. If it thinks you have the throttle open a little it will compensate.

Other than those you are into random stuff like connection moisture, breaking down plug lead insulation blah blah blah.
 
hmm you could check part numbers i spose for a match?

might be worth email or ringing griff on aprilia performance for this info ?
 
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I believe the 04 GenII had a different ECU due to a different timing sensor or pickup than the later RSV's not 100% sure which but may pay to double check ..
 
Have you looked at the fuel pump? Does it cycle correctly when you first turn the key and then automatically shut off when pressurized? The pipes have had their difficulties and there is a mod or service bulletin on them.
 
Have you looked at the fuel pump? Does it cycle correctly when you first turn the key and then automatically shut off when pressurized? The pipes have had their difficulties and there is a mod or service bulletin on them.

Given that the bike starts and runs perfectly once warm as I've stated a few times, what leads you to believe that the fuel pump could be faulty?
Thanks
 
Temperature difference, the fuel tank huge the cylinder head tightly and materials swell under heat. A long shot, but still an idea.
 
Temperature difference, the fuel tank huge the cylinder head tightly and materials swell under heat. A long shot, but still an idea.

OK....thanks for that.
I think I'd need a massive temperature differential to cause the problem I'm having. Also, 30 seconds running (after which everything is OK) would not generate enough heat to permeate the motor, let alone the tank where the pump is located.
Furthermore, the weather and ambient temps here are fairly mild for the time of year.
 
wonder if the imobilizer is causing this ?

have you tried by passing it or is it gone already?


sorry if you have already stated imob but im being lazy so not re read post.
 
wonder if the imobilizer is causing this ?

have you tried by passing it or is it gone already?

I don't think so, the reason I say this is because the bike fires nearly everytime I thumb the starter...which would indicate the imobilizer isn't trying to kill it.
Probs is, once she's fired, she spins a few cycles and then peters out.(bastid thing)
I think it could be a fuelling issue...possibly the ecu sending wrong info .....due to a duff sensor of bad connection...
Hoping to try another ecu on it shortly. Fingers x'ed
 
I don't think so, the reason I say this is because the bike fires nearly everytime I thumb the starter...which would indicate the imobilizer isn't trying to kill it.
Probs is, once she's fired, she spins a few cycles and then peters out.(bastid thing)
I think it could be a fuelling issue...possibly the ecu sending wrong info .....due to a duff sensor of bad connection...
Hoping to try another ecu on it shortly. Fingers x'ed

ok that will rule out the ecu at least.

imobilizers usually stop the fuel pump ? and why it was a poss cause as fuel pressure just drops off and engine dies.

do your bloody nut in these type of faults:rant
 
Thought I'd update you on this, just in case anyone had a similar problem...

It's the ECU

Swapped it over for a good one, bike starts perfectly
Swapped old one back in...no go
New one in again...runs perfect...

So there you are chaps......problem solved.

(Well...not quite...just got to find a new ECU...at a half decent price)
 
result Tifa but never nice when the brain gets dementia as it can be a dear fix !!

hope you get a bargain:thumbup
 
Just read through all of that, really glad you got sorted! you found your own ecu yet?
I`m really hoping nothing like this happens to me in france this year!!
 

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