Joined Nov 2013
317 Posts | 16+
Washington State, USA
I read on another channel a near endless list of other staters that can be used, or other bikes whoses stators can be used, along will lots of other parts that can be fitted, all much cheaper than ape parts and usually easier to obtain. Worth a look before buying at least.
Joined Jan 2015
552 Posts | 45+
Midlands (UK)
Joined Dec 2015
28 Posts | 1+
UK
The reg rec i bought is supposedly one of the best stators you can buy for the bike, I dont want this problem re occurring so I spent some money on it. Hopefully it will last! I missed half the summer =(
Been out a few times this winter though, almost worth the cold!
Been out a few times this winter though, almost worth the cold!
Joined Jul 2008
1K Posts | 26+
The Rick's stator has slightly thicker wire, but fewer windings.
These in combination offer a bit more durability, and reduce the output to a more acceptable level.
I had mine rewound by West Country Windings. They finish them very similar to the Rick's
I specified longer tails, (about a fiver extra) so that I could route the wires a bit more sensibly.
After the cylinder heads, that stator cover is the hottest part of the engine....no wonder they fail so easily!
These in combination offer a bit more durability, and reduce the output to a more acceptable level.
I had mine rewound by West Country Windings. They finish them very similar to the Rick's
I specified longer tails, (about a fiver extra) so that I could route the wires a bit more sensibly.
After the cylinder heads, that stator cover is the hottest part of the engine....no wonder they fail so easily!
Joined Jul 2009
1K Posts | 35+
Harrogate
There is a thread over on af1 that shows the engine number where the revised rotor was fitted...
Series Regulator/Rectifier Install
its always worth shopping around
Isn't the engine number on the rear of the block, just above the rear engine mount?
Isn't the engine number on the rear of the block, just above the rear engine mount?
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Joined Jul 2016
45 Posts | 4+
Gloucestershire
Thanks to felix and the link to the AF1 site forum I have read pages of the posts. More importantly there are some very good photographs of the melted and burnt "brown" connectors.
From one picture in particular and experiences given I think I have found the problem. I have been a qualified electrician for the past 30+ years so I know when I see burnt out connections that the cause is "overload" due to too high a current or a loose connection which causes "arcing" and therefore heat build up. As I said one picture has given me the answer. The spade connectors in this brown, plug and socket connection is the problem. The spade and its female partner connect to the wire via a crimped joint, this joint IS THE PROBLEM. Whereas most crimped connections completely circle the wire and tighten like a noose. These connections do not, they crimp like your fists making a heart with [at best] 3 points of contact to the wire. If they are badly done and loose you get heat and melted connectors and high current and stator failure. I should add at this point that. Regulator/ rectifiers do fail [ask any Honda owner] so a good aftermarket replacement is a good idea. As many people have come to the conclusion replacing these brown connectors is correct. Can I suggest that as someone else has that you just solder the wire/ metal spade connection and that should cure our "dodgy Italian electrical problem". I hope this make sense? Dave Ish
From one picture in particular and experiences given I think I have found the problem. I have been a qualified electrician for the past 30+ years so I know when I see burnt out connections that the cause is "overload" due to too high a current or a loose connection which causes "arcing" and therefore heat build up. As I said one picture has given me the answer. The spade connectors in this brown, plug and socket connection is the problem. The spade and its female partner connect to the wire via a crimped joint, this joint IS THE PROBLEM. Whereas most crimped connections completely circle the wire and tighten like a noose. These connections do not, they crimp like your fists making a heart with [at best] 3 points of contact to the wire. If they are badly done and loose you get heat and melted connectors and high current and stator failure. I should add at this point that. Regulator/ rectifiers do fail [ask any Honda owner] so a good aftermarket replacement is a good idea. As many people have come to the conclusion replacing these brown connectors is correct. Can I suggest that as someone else has that you just solder the wire/ metal spade connection and that should cure our "dodgy Italian electrical problem". I hope this make sense? Dave Ish
Joined Jan 2015
552 Posts | 45+
Midlands (UK)
Thanks Davish. Your explanation of the brown connector problem makes perfect sense, and may explain why some bikes (e.g. Gen 1's) are less vulnerable than Gen 2's, in this area, and never have a problem! Just depends on batches of crimp connectors and especially how well crimped they are. But always worth a check in any case!
I agree, soldering is best, but a quick solution might be just re-crimping to squeeze the cable a bit more and increase contact area.
I agree, soldering is best, but a quick solution might be just re-crimping to squeeze the cable a bit more and increase contact area.
Joined Jul 2016
45 Posts | 4+
Gloucestershire
Well I have replaced my brown connector with crimped "bullet" types [blue 2.5mm] then sleeved these with a short length of heat shrink sleeving [brown lol]
I replaced the stock reg/ rectifier with an after/ market unit while I was at it. Happy days. Or so I thought! On run up to temp, everything was fine except for a small drip of oil dripping from the "oil sensor" ? Just to the left of the reg/ rec [single black wire on a spade connector]. I must of pulled it somehow? Is this sensor easy to replace?
Joined Jul 2009
1K Posts | 35+
Harrogate
Rico over on Tuonoworld posted this:
OIL PRESSURE SENSOR SWITCH
seems like a straight forward replacement - i guess you dont have to worry about the oil as it will be in the oil tank...
btw - i f you dont have a copy of the workshop manual, PM me ya email address and i will send you a copy !
OIL PRESSURE SENSOR SWITCH
seems like a straight forward replacement - i guess you dont have to worry about the oil as it will be in the oil tank...
btw - i f you dont have a copy of the workshop manual, PM me ya email address and i will send you a copy !
