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The Official "I HATE APRILIA......"

Just to confirm the twin plug head model has the smaller valves and has the least power output of the RSV family
 
Erm, do you mean twin plug per cylinder, or twin plug full stop (1 per cylinder?).
 
Just to confirm the twin plug head model has the smaller valves and has the least power output of the RSV family


True,but remember there were different spec twin plug engines,I think from late 2002 they had bigger valves etc.
 
Just to confirm the twin plug head model has the smaller valves and has the least power output of the RSV family
In 2001 camshaft lift was raised by 0.8mm and the diameter of the intake valves has been increased by 2mm. Which gives like 2hp lol.

Ive got the shift light set at 10k on my Mille and when pushing on i quite often see it and sometimes the hit limiter and i dont feel like theres a lack of high rev power. I think the limiter cuts in a bit quick, maybe it should be at 11k.
 
Im with Scott on this one need to change up at around 9k if you see the dyno charts the torque line trails off quite rapidly.

Anyway these bikes arent about brute power but how they deliver it.
 
But my wholse issue with this is that my mates yr older standard mille is alot quicker top end and a little bit on bottom, his is standard, mine has 16/45 gearing and a hooked airbox. I've read so many posts on how the gearing makes the rsv a different animal if you go 16/45, I suppose no one said whether it was better or not, I jst assumed!
I cant out drag my old 600k2 just on raw power,and at about 140 pulls away, that cant be right surely? I'm looking at another one anyway now, so either I'll be proved right that there's something wrong, or proved to be a moron....... (wont be the first time!).
Got a chip on the way as a last resort otherwise she's goin!
 
Im with Scott on this one need to change up at around 9k if you see the dyno charts the torque line trails off quite rapidly.

Anyway these bikes arent about brute power but how they deliver it.

Without a bit of paper with a graph on it youd be none the wiser about the torque quite rapidly trailing off, its not like the bike rapidly slows down all of a sudden at 9k lol, its still accelerating hard right up to the limiter.
If youre chasing something you short shift at 9k do you?
 
Without a bit of paper with a graph on it youd be none the wiser about the torque quite rapidly trailing off, its not like the bike rapidly slows down all of a sudden at 9k lol, its still accelerating hard right up to the limiter.
If youre chasing something you short shift at 9k do you?

I have a dyno printout

I dont chase anything on the RSV they usually are chasing me :devious :doug
 
I've read so many posts on how the gearing makes the rsv a different animal

Scuse a newbie mouthing off but.........

I had an interesting experience testing a Falco with factory chip and racing cans (in the Its Here post). From my Tuono days I realised everyone drops the gearing as standard practice - 'cept on Falcos, coz Prila got it right as standard. However, this Falco had an RSVR front sprocket in by mistake, consequently it was geared for top speed. It was pulling low revs at high speeds, quicker you went better it felt (I had over 135 on the clock at the time, lots more to come, nowhere near limiter). So I'd say it depends on what sort of animal you want - the Falco seems to have abundant low/mid shove but mine (I liked it so much I bought it after the test ride:) ) could still take a drop in gearing, I dont wanna go directly to jail. ;) With the gearing drop it will be awesome lower done but it will scarifice a bit of high speed smoothness and top speed.

As with all bikes its not about max power, its about where the power is made.
Thats why a nicely set up RSV mill is still a match for almost anything on the road, and handy on the track.......... I've had big power four pot bikes but none of them have that focussed mid range rush :thumbup
 
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But thats half my point, it isnt any better down low either. Anyway, I'm putting this thread to bed now, just gonna get her back together and be done with it, at least for this year! Thanks for everyones help, especially AMB67, much appreciated mate.
 
Just a thought I put 15 tooth sprocket on with standard rear and had a 180 55 17 tyre. Gearing nice for my style of riding. But then put on 190 55 17 for a track session which worked for the track with higher corner entry/exit speeds. But when I got home to ride back on the road the bike feels back to where it was with standard gearing my point is do you and your mate have differant tyre profiles which could effect gearing as well and prob speedo accuracy?
 
To be honest rear section really shouldn't have any noticeable effect on gearing, irrespective of profile, unless you make a radical change. A 180 section would be more agile and allow you to turn in quicker than a 190, that fact alone would outweigh any perceived advantage and make it a better bet at most tracks. Fat rubber works up the strip but thats about it. Just IMO. :)
 
To be honest rear section really shouldn't have any noticeable effect on gearing, irrespective of profile, unless you make a radical change. A 180 section would be more agile and allow you to turn in quicker than a 190, that fact alone would outweigh any perceived advantage and make it a better bet at most tracks. Fat rubber works up the strip but thats about it. Just IMO. :)

So it dosnt matter how big the circumference is it dosnt make a difference mmmm maybe scooter wheels might be better way cheaper tyres LOL and and amount of contact rubber on the track dosnt make a difference **** what was I thinking. Was just putting a differant spin on things to try and help sorry I ll keep opinions to myself.
 
Aprilias are beautiful crafted machines, however the Italian workforce is a very fickle lot. They have good days and bad days, probably due to a dodgy bolognese sauce...
Hence some bikes with veery dodgy electrics and some bike you can ride throght the Thames...
 
I'm wondering about this now and am questioning the advice we have provided you so far. I wonder if you may have tight valve clearances and this is causing you a slight loss of power.

Do you know when they were last checked and by whom?

Again, because I can't actually physically get my hands on the bike this is all best guess work. Your not far from Griff (Tamworth) take a trip up to see him and let him have a look over the bike, trust me when I say it will be worth it. :thumbup
 
Just a thought I put 15 tooth sprocket on with standard rear and had a 180 55 17 tyre. Gearing nice for my style of riding. But then put on 190 55 17 for a track session which worked for the track with higher corner entry/exit speeds. But when I got home to ride back on the road the bike feels back to where it was with standard gearing my point is do you and your mate have differant tyre profiles which could effect gearing as well and prob speedo accuracy?

You're bang on with this mate, it does make a noticeable difference! I recently went from a 180/55 to 190/55 and the gearing was taller so I went to 16/44 gearing to counteract it (and some!)

Check out "Gearing Commander"
http://www.gearingcommander.com/
You can put changes in tyre size and profile as well as sprocket changes, with my 16/44 gearing, the difference in top speed is;
190/55 156mph
190/55 161mph
The speedo is obviously calibrated for the 190/50, so I'm going about 5mph faster than the speedo reads.. Not a lot I know, but IMO you do feel the difference in the gears :)
That said, I doubt it's enough of a difference to say your mate's standard bike is much faster than your moddified one.. Good call on the valve clearances AMB67, you'll have reduced compression if the valves aren't closing and you'll also burn out the valves/ seats if the clearance is too tight !!
 
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Have you had the bike on the dyno to see what the power and torque curves are like, how it is fueling and where the power is dropping off? It may give you a better understanding of what is going wrong. I hope the new chip fixes it for you though.
 
The speedo runs off of a sensor tracking the hub of the rear wheel. So the speedo will never be out of kilter regardless of your gearing or tyre size gents :thumbup tyre rolling circumference does make a difference though of course.

Good luck with getting the power drop sorted, certainly sounds like something is strangling it somewhere along the line. I assume the bike ticks over ok?
 
I only have the guys word for it (and his notes in the manual) that the valve clearances were checked about 2500 miles ago and all was "ok". Thats all I have tbh.
Mark, the real notcible difference is the top end of the rev range, mine is just struggling from 9000 onwards, whereas my mates was still pulling like a train despite being standard.
I'm gonna pack her away soon so will save some pennies and if I've still got her come next year will take it up to griff to have a peek.
 
It could well be a tight valve, i had this in june this year
very similar with power

Poor tb & co set-up also


I mapped my bike start of year
Was fairly happy with figures
Fuel usuage 110 to tank

In june performance felt less than inviting

Had the valve clearances checked
Yep they needed adjusting TIGHT

Reshimmed & timmed back up
tb's & co done

An animal came back
Fuel usuage 75 to tank
 

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