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Oil Level

Joined Oct 2011
19 Posts | 0+
Lanarkshire, Scotland
Guys I'm bangin my head off the wall with this oil level tube. I'm going to change the oil and filter shortly but noticed that the oil does not show in the tube. I have read lots of threads on here about running the bike until the fan comes on and then take the reading while the oil is hot. Either there is insufficient oil in there or it's not reading properly. Suppose I won't know until I drain it and measure whats left. The oil and filter was done last June and i've done about 2500 miles. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.

Cheers
Bob.
 
You need at least a 10 minute run then look in the sight tube ...............................

I check the oil before I put it away , I also run the engine when not in use for some time . I let the fans come on at least once and ride up the garden path a time or two so it`s not on the stand |ALL of the time .

???? if enough oil in and pressure is OK then it will pump the oil everywhere even when on the sidestand all the time
 
deffo need to take for 10 mile run then check oil... just ticking over is not good enough..sure it will be fine after a run mate
 
There should be a level guide on there. Griff marked mine on the tube about half way up. Originally when I'd bought it they'd filled it higher than that ad it blew all oil into the air filter. So for me about half way up the tube is fine as mine doesn't seem to lose any oil at all.
 
Just done the oil and filter change. It was the long filter that was fitted (model 564). I measured all the oil when it was drained and there was 3.2 litres in there. Should be 3.9 with the filter so it's either burned some, the last owner didn't put enough in or there is a fraction still lying inside coating the engine/gearbox. 3.9 filled the sight tube to the max after the engine turned for a while so i'll keep folks updated on how it goes. I'll keep an eye on on the air filter too and hopefully it's not too full. Any advice would be appreciated as this is my first venture to Tuono's.
 
Did you drain the engine crank bolt bob ?? Torx screw on right side of oil filter cover!! That's magnetic too so clean off any filings... You would get a few more ml if you drain that too
 
Originally when I'd bought it they'd filled it higher than that ad it blew all oil into the air filter

I took a run out yesterday on the Factory I purchased last Nov, and when i got home thought I'd check the oil level out - 5 mins after stopping it I propped her up and the sight tube was full up....
Arses, other than a new air filter am I looking at more expensive issues? Surely this can't this completely screw the engine???

Engine sounded tappy too, might be time for a visit to the Rocket Centre!
 
I have just spoken to the garage that's servicing my gen 1, I wish I had gone to an Aprilia agent now, they cant seem to understand that the tube should be empty when cold!! And you have to run the bike to check it. I must say its a bit of an arse of a job, it should have been made more simple buy Aprilia in first place IMO..fD
 
Yep, sump plug first then opened the filler cap. Once empty took off the crank bolt then the filter cover. There should be 200 ml in there and it certainly came out. With only 3.2 coming out in total it registered at the very bottom of the tube before draining, so at least I know that on my bike(i presume it will be the same for the same model for everyone else) the sight tube will indicate between 3.2 and 3.9 litres. I'll keep an eye on it though.
Cheers
Bob
 
Summat to do with it being a dry sump.


This is a simple explanation of how a dry-sump oiling system works in the RSV1000 Mille, SL1000 Falco, RST1000 Futura, and Pegaso 650. This oiling system can also be found on all types of race cars (F1, Indy, circle-track, even NASCAR). This dry-sump oiling system frees up lost horsepower and prevents oil starvation problems associated with long wheelies and high G-forces. Aprilia is the only one to use this dry-sump oiling system in all of their 4-stroke motorcycles. I strongly feel that other manufacturers should also use this system.

The basic dry-sump oiling system consists of two oil pumps, an oil filter, and an oil tank.

We'll start at the oil tank, since most of you know where that is located. The oil tank always contains a minimum level of oil. The oil is drawn down the bottom hose to the first oil pump called the pressure oil pump. The pressure oil pump pushes the oil through the oil filter, and then to all major lubrication points (bearings, crankshafts, cams, transmission gears, etc.) thru oiling passages just like in all other engines. This pressure pump is analogous to the single oil pump in a wet-sump engine.

Oil splashes off the moving parts and drains to the bottom of the crankcase. Here, is the main difference between dry-sump and wet-sump. In a typical wet-sump engine, the crankcase (oil pan) is very deep and full of oil. The crankshaft partly spins through this oil causing a HP loss. The single oil pump in a wet-sump engine has its pickup somewhere in the oil pan. Under certain conditions (high G-forces, long wheelies, stoppies, etc.), this oil pickup can be sucking in air and not oil. This will starve all the moving parts for oil. NOT GOOD!!!

In a dry-sump Aprilia engine, the oil does not sit in the pan, hence the bottom of the crankcase is "dry" and very compact. A second oil pump, called the recovery or suction oil pump, returns this oil back to the oil tank through a hose. This hose connects to the top of the oil tank. With a dry-sump system the "oil pan" is effectively moved to the side of the engine (now called the oil tank). Remember, because the oil tank always has oil to feed the pressure pump, the pressure pump will never run out of oil. No oil starvation problems!!!

This system allows the engineers to make a more powerful and compact engine, and provide adequate lubrication under all conditions (high G-forces, long wheelies, stoppies, etc.). It frees up lost horsepower by not spinning the crankshaft through several inches of oil. The crankshaft is pressure lubricated not "splash" lubricated.
 
Bob min....did ye drain the oil tank itself as well as the sump plug an filter oot?

Best changing efter the oil is hot ( mind and dinnae burn yersel) as the oil is thnner an will drain much easier.

Careful wi the oil tank drain an sump plug as weel, disnae need a lot o torque to tighten plug up and could strip it

Oil tank drain plug - 15N/mm

Sump plug -12 N/mm

I,ve got a pdf copy of the full Ape WORKSHOP service manual for the T so if anyone wants a copy drop me a PM and I,ll email it tae ye.
 
Rico I think I have one on my Yahoo actually. If you pm me your e-mail I'll forward it to you mate
 
always hand to have Bay min in ma wee libary o handy info.......send it on and ahl send you the Gen 2 one ....ye never know ...might be handy one day

PM sent in a mo
 
hiya, off ill so might be dumb question: The manual you get with the bike mentions engine oil change too.
Usually(Japanese) bikes (with a sump!) use shaired oil betweixt engine/gear box?

Have embarrased myself by not actually tinkering with new toy properly yet...it has been awfully cold...

Rico - I'll drop PM.
 
Here's somthing to make GenII owners think.
It's virtually impossible to drain ALL the oil.
There is always about 1/3 of a litre left in the oil coolers which can't be drained unless you drop then off the bike.
 
Fair point ............ahl think aboot it T min....but winnae worry aboot it! Drain, fill it, check the levels, then check it again a biitty later oan. it will be what it will be........
 
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