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Does your Mille get rattly when hot?

my 04 bike has 13k on it now and doesn't require any topping up at all between services. Run in not as per manual and much as you mentioned

Hi Spoonz.

Could you clarify what you meant by "run in not as per manual" as in did you use another method or did you just ride it normally as you would on a day to day basis. Cheers.
 
The critical period is the first hour or so.
To get a good piston ring/bore seal they hone the cylinder surface of modern bikes to roughen it up. because they use Nickasil a lot on cylinders to reduce friction these days they have to or they won't mate properly.
The idea being that the honed surface acts as an abrasive to quickly wear the rings to the shape of the bore for a perfect seal.

The honeing lasts a very short time so you have to use it to it's max in that period. Getting the most from it means decent variation in revs to put the engine through heat cycles which aid the process.

By decent revs i mean 90% of the rev range but without loading the engine or hitting the rev limit. Roll ons are good because they use the revs but don't load the engine to a great extent as you already have momentum.

Once you get beyond the honing you rely on natural wearing processes to do the job for you which can take a very long time. I also make sure the dealer never puts fully synth oil in a new bike as it also can wreck that bed in period.

More reading http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 
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The critical period is the first hour or so.
To get a good piston ring/bore seal they hone the cylinder surface of modern bikes to roughen it up. because they use Nickasil a lot on cylinders to reduce friction these days they have to or they won't mate properly.
The idea being that the honed surface acts as an abrasive to quickly wear the rings to the shape of the bore for a perfect seal.

The honeing lasts a very short time so you have to use it to it's max in that period. Getting the most from it means decent variation in revs to put the engine through heat cycles which aid the process.

By decent revs i mean 90% of the rev range but without loading the engine or hitting the rev limit. Roll ons are good because they use the revs but don't load the engine to a great extent as you already have momentum.

Once you get beyond the honing you rely on natural wearing processes to do the job for you which can take a very long time. I also make sure the dealer never puts fully synth oil in a new bike as it also can wreck that bed in period.

More reading http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Thanks, too late for me unfortunately as I've got 602 by the book miles on mine already (bugger) but good and interesting to know none the less.
 
I wouldn't worry about it if it's not giving you grief. what's a few BHP ehh.

Just think of me blasting around on my non oil burning super powerful Rsv. :nana

Being red/silver means it was already faster anyway really. :doug
 
I wouldn't worry about it if it's not giving you grief. what's a few BHP ehh.

Just think of me blasting around on my non oil burning super powerful Rsv. :nana

Being red/silver means it was already faster anyway really. :doug

LOL. thanks for the sympathy...or not :grinning

Although jokes on you Spoonz as white ones used to be red and silver. That's how fast they are. :grinning :nana
 
Quick cane the arse off it! LOL

Mine has 10k on it so tough for me!

Good plan! Do you think the cops will buy it? But officer it's best mechanical practice. Spoonz told me so, so it must be true.:thumbup
 
I never said that. Jay did

Lock him up officer


LOL. Cheers mate! So JayB and I are gonna do 8 to 10 in the pen now! Although I'm sure you said something like "...I mean 90% of the rev range..." Mmmm. You meant on my rolling road of course, right? :nana
 
i said 90% of the throttle, but didn't say which gear.

Jay just outright told you all to break the law. He has the look of a law breaker. his eyebrows meet in the middle which is a sure sign of a law breaker. :devious
 
i said 90% of the throttle, but didn't say which gear.

Jay just outright told you all to break the law. He has the look of a law breaker. his eyebrows meet in the middle which is a sure sign of a law breaker. :devious

I can see you are a cunning adversary Spoonz however I can feel myself on the verge on decending in to thread hijack silliness so I shall refrain and try and get back on track and ask a serious question so save myself from more tom-foolery.

Basically is the method of running in engines you described good for all engine types or does it suit some engine types better? The reason I ask is that while all combustion engines are obviously essentially the same I wondered if you would do things differently on an i4, v4 or a single for example due to there different configurations?
 
Hi Rage..i also have always run in any new bike engine pretty much as Spoonz has written above..an engine that is run in hard ( big difference between hard and thrashed) will always go better, use less oil, produce more power, usually need less done to it over its life..however may wear a little faster than an engine ran soft. Pegged it thru the first four gears and roll outs for the high gears..never hold a rev range for long, and not thru any tight area if it appears...don't let it get too hot..then she will be a hard pulling engine for sure. :thumbup
Regards matey
 
The exception is 2 strokes. Principle stands for 4 strokes.

when i had a run of Honda cars i did a factory visit and they told me a large part of the reason Jap car engines are super reliable is because they often pre delivery run the engines on a bench for a few hard miles before it goes in the car to make sure it was done correctly. They found some old dear pootling along at 2000 rpm caused problems down the line with the engines.
 
Hi Rage..i also have always run in any new bike engine pretty much as Spoonz has written above..an engine that is run in hard ( big difference between hard and thrashed) will always go better, use less oil, produce more power, usually need less done to it over its life..however may wear a little faster than an engine ran soft. Pegged it thru the first four gears and roll outs for the high gears..never hold a rev range for long, and not thru any tight area if it appears...don't let it get too hot..then she will be a hard pulling engine for sure. :thumbup
Regards matey

Cheers AusRSV, sounds pretty straight forward although as previously mentioned iin this thread t's too late for me (bugger, bugger, bugger!) as I've just finished running mine in but I'll bear it in mind if and when there's a next time.
 
The exception is 2 strokes. Principle stands for 4 strokes.

when i had a run of Honda cars i did a factory visit and they told me a large part of the reason Jap car engines are super reliable is because they often pre delivery run the engines on a bench for a few hard miles before it goes in the car to make sure it was done correctly. They found some old dear pootling along at 2000 rpm caused problems down the line with the engines.

Thanks Spoonz, interesting and informative as ever. Wonder if that jap mentality extends to their bikes too, especially Honda and maybe Suzuki as they both make cars too.

Interestingly when I got my RSV it had 9 miles on it and when I enquired why I was told it was to do with the Akros being fitted and "tested" and that made me think that someone had given it a good battering which in truth pissed me off when I thought about it but in retrospect they may've done me a favour of sorts. Either way as someone's already mentioned I can't do much about it now but it's always good to be informed.
 
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The exception is 2 strokes. Principle stands for 4 strokes.

when i had a run of Honda cars i did a factory visit and they told me a large part of the reason Jap car engines are super reliable is because they often pre delivery run the engines on a bench for a few hard miles before it goes in the car to make sure it was done correctly. They found some old dear pootling along at 2000 rpm caused problems down the line with the engines.

:D tru Spoonz 4 strokes only...i have never owned a 2 stroke :eek: other than one old chookchaser many years ago, so is out of my experience.

I went thru the Mitsubishi factory down in Adelaide once..at the end of the assembly line the engines were hooked up and ran pretty damn hard straight off the bat before going into the vehicle...they say virtually run in at the factory.

For interest sakes mate..what is the run in methodology for a two stroke road engine?
Cheers & Regards, Aj
 
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