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Can't start, won't start.

Helimeddaz said:
I've read the thread. If it's chaffed wiring. I'm stunned, not had the tank or any bits off. I'm not good on wiring. I'm going to look over it tomorrow. The starter solenoid is clicking like mad, but it doesn't turn over.

Why would it start up and then 10 minutes later do feck all. Not moved or disturbed anything?
Click to expand...
Solenoid may be the problem.Check for continuity as you press the start button.Just because its clicking,does'nt mean its working correctly.
If it has no continuity,...it wont start.Could be the contacts burnt out.
You could try shorting the two thick cables out.If the engine turns over,the battery is ok and the solenoid knackered.
if it does'nt turn over,the battery is dead.

The solenoid is bolted on the rear subframe,behind the side panel.Right hand side.

FWIW,...my missus has a 2013 Harley 883.I gave it a service last week.It started fine,no problems. I warmed it up and changed the oil,etc.Went to start it next day,...and nada,..nothing.Relay clicking but not turning over.Checked the battery,....its knackered.Bloody modern sealed batteries can die overnight.
 
Thanks for all the help. I have somewhere to start at least. I still feel Itll and up at Teesdales by the weekend. :bash:bash:bash:bash:argh
 
My part is a starter relay after all, here is a better pic, off the internet (is this the 'solenoid' you mean keith?). Not a tip over switch, my starter relay is under my seat, but it's an old model. Starter relays can seize or fuse, I don't think it'd be odd if it happened after the first turnover after a long lie time. A little percussive maintenance can free them up (admittedly not everyone is comfortable with whacking them), I got a yamaha one (better capacity = stronger ignition i hear) for around the tenner mark on ebay, plugged straight on. But the way to tell if it is the problem after all is - as Keith says- shorting it out.

Google Image Result for http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTA2WDkwMA%3D%3D/%24(KGrHqZ,!g4E6ZGhubCIBOsDOJdBpQ~~60_35.JPG
 
Helimeddaz said:
...Even connected up to jump leads, click, click, click. Won't start.

Any ideas?.
Click to expand...

Obviously, if it wouldn't even jump start it's not the battery. Sounds like the starter relay... or other wiring problem, as described.

NB: Incidentally, starting a bike, running it on tickover for a few minutes won't recharge the battery significantly. Such a scenario can result in the battery power dropping to a level that won't be sufficiently high enough to fire the plugs when attempting to restart the engine. Others have had exactly this scenario... cause being, the Tuono needs some 80+% (estimate) battery charge (with a std 10Ah battery) in order to fire the plugs when cranking engine over. Below the critical threshold, it will crank engine but not have enough power to fire plugs, hence flooding occurs. Appreciate your engine isn't even cranking, so posting this for benefit of others....

Look forward to your update when sussed!
 
Last edited:
If the starter solenoid/relay is knackered,...have a look at the starter motor positive connection.
I read somewhere that the terminal can corrode,causing a high resistance.The extra current required burnt out the relay.
 
Well..........

Just thought I'd give an update on this confusing conundrum.

charged the living daylights out of the battery and rechecked. The Optimiser was still saying fully charged and in good fettle. Refitted to bike..... Same screwy warnings and Blackpool illuminations on the instruments. Fuel pump primed and solenoid clicking like Carmen Mirandas maracas. Would it start? Would it f@@@.........

Anyway... I connected up the jump leads from the car and guess what? Didn't startbit either. :banghead
Put a proper test on the battery and it was open circuit and no amps.

So..... Looked on the forum again and took the recommendations for a new battery's as was pulling my hair out by this time. Ordered a VARTA Funstart battery 11Ah and 230Amp crank. (Standard is 10Ah and 150Amp). Filled battery and charged. Connected up and guess what. FIRED FIRST F@&£-n time. What is that about?

How can all those crazy things happen, just because the God damn battery is fecked?

It driven me mad, but the moment I threw my leg over it, I forgave it all the headaches I've had over the past couple of weeks.

Thanks for all the help everybody. :thumbup
 
Oh... One last thing. First year I've used an Optimiser over the winter instead of putting the bikes on an Electronic battery charger. I'm not convinced they are any good now,. Why was the Optimiser telling me the battery was good when it was knackered. Maybe I've just been unlucky and the battery was on its way out anyway. :dunno
 
I dont trust those Optimates,..and its not a good idea to leave batteries on the trickle charger for months on end.The best way to maintain the battery is to charge,...then discharge,....charge,...discharge,...etc.
Over the winter months,just use the charger every 2 or 3 weeks.
 
Ahm wi KB on the charging regime.....dinnae believe these Optimates etc actaully work well at all. Its an Oxford product likely cobbled thegither in Chinaland. ye hear endless similar stories o such grief.

Starting point is a good condition battery, well charged, afore ye store, then as KB says do a couple of charges noo an again wi a proper battery charger.

Ahv had ma T since new 2008 and its sat thru some bad Ricoland winters and never seen an Optimate and has never failed me startin on the button fine once the salty hites aff the roads
 
Best battery charger I have came from Aldi a couple of years ago.Cost about £12,...yeah its fitted with croccy clips,not the usual permanant lead plug.I just cut of the croccies and crimped on an Optimate plug.You can get them on fleabay for peanuts.
 
same here min...budget job...jist whacks a decent charge in and yer good tae go.....

....an mine still has the auld skool crocodiles on :thumbup
 
Helimeddaz...
glad to hear you got it sorted. I'm convinced what happens is the battery often isn't duff... from a charger analysis perspective, but it's depleted below the necessary threshold to crank over two pistons displacing 500cc a piece and still have enough power to spark the plugs. Which eventually completely knackers it.


Keith B said:
I dont trust those Optimates,..and its not a good idea to leave batteries on the trickle charger for months on end.The best way to maintain the battery is to charge,...then discharge,....charge,...discharge,...etc.
Over the winter months,just use the charger every 2 or 3 weeks.
Click to expand...

I recommend CTEK. Not necessarily cheap (although some good buys on eBay if your careful), but they are an 'intelligent charger' and do exactly that (charge...discharge...charge) once charge cycle is complete. Apparently BMW and Mercedes re-brand and package them with new cars.

http://www.ctek.com/gb/en

The MXS3.8 is good for bike Lead Acid/GEL batteries, and has a 'Motorbike' battery mode, for reduced current.

MXS 3.8

I once bought a 'Ring' Intelligent charger from Halfords... and it proved to be neither intelligent or a charger... so took it back, bought the MXS 3.8, and never looked back (except... to buy an upgraded Tuono battery ;) )
 
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