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02 tuono starter problem

What is an optimiser? Same as a battery tender (trickle charger with a chip to prevent overcharge)? Sorry to be obtuse!

--Great thread and very substantial contributions!

Lastly, I've got a battery tender already but ride several times daily and don't want to remove the seat constantly. --Run a couple of wires from the battery leads with wire caps & tuck up out of sight, or more elegent solution? Thanks Lads.
 
Jonnyallover said:
Run a couple of wires from the battery leads with wire caps & tuck up out of sight
Click to expand...

Keerect!:yes

# 1 DIY fix for battery problems on the might T. Keeps the battery nicely topped-up, easing the load on other charging/starting components.

Dave
 
I,m getting impatient and still waiting for my fekn parts!!,i thought UPS was only 5-10 days to anywhere?,my bearing has turned up from Aussie though and Ducati part is exactly the same as Aprilia...so while im waiting i,ve hooked my sidestand off,heated mounting plate to kick stand out more sideways when down and lengthend stand by about 25mm.....no more falling over now ****!!,its hit the deck 5 times and i havent been on it once!
 
VFR4Lee said:
Highly entertaining. :lol

I find if I had it running, shut it off, go to restart and it fails to start right off (probably because I turned the throttle), the thing to do is crank the starter with the throttle WFO. It typically starts real quick then. :cheers
Click to expand...

Tempting though it is.....you shouldn't do that> With the throttle open the bike will normally start with a 'crack' sound. That's the engine bacfiring directly against the starter clutch. Eventually causes the expensive sprag clutch problem.
 
Hey ho.

I have a battery tender and even in the cold now starts first pop. I ran it a little the other day (after fully charging it) and then reconnected the tender, and found the battery needed a significant top up (was down to 12.9V) even after running the engine to warm (about 3 min). So even with fast idle on, it is losing charge. Worth knowing.

I still haven't soldered the voltage regulator wires, but that is my first job before fixing the headlight so it is off for starting.

I REALLY recommend the "hands free" aproach to starting after what I have learned. Full "choke", one finger on the start button!
 
Tempting though it is.....you shouldn't do that> With the throttle open the bike will normally start with a 'crack' sound. That's the engine bacfiring directly against the starter clutch. Eventually causes the expensive sprag clutch problem.

I hadn't noticed a cracking sound, but I guess I'll avoid that in the future. Mostly the thing fires right up.
 
Limited success for cold starts

Well, soldering the voltage reg seemed the right thing - the connector was corroded. Mine wasn't the brown one though - but had corrosion on the white one (with four wires). I soldered it and the brown connector wires just to cover my bases!

I also tapped into the circuit from the L handlebar switchset, and the black wire triggers the relay for low beam. Just popped a switch into that circuit and now can start with lights off, then switch on when bike warm.

I tidied up the connections on the battery too (they came up nice and bright with a file) so must have been below optimum.

Well, the bike started very well first morning yesterday (cold - about 3deg C). :thumbup

Today took a fair cranking (even after being on the battery conditioner overnight) to start - no throttle! Was about 5 degC, so cold again. But ran for about 3 min on one cylinder before the other fired up.:banghead

Not pleased.

I think I had new plugs about 6 months ago. Battery new too.

Any advice what to do from here? :dunno I am thinking new plugs first just cause I'm not too sure about that, and then go and replace the starter relay with the Yamaha 100amp dude (the T uses 50amp I think).

Or I could get an engine warmer and wrap the big baby in a blanket overnight!! (or buy a firestorm for riding in the winter... shhh, I didnt say that:bawling).

Help!
 
Starting a lot better with lights off, and after three days unplugged I put on the batt conditioner and it went straight to 14.4V in about 5 seconds, so that is great after soldering the regulator.

Still having a bit of a tiz starting though on the really cold days, so have just ordered the Yamaha starter relay NZ$89.90 (new zealand peso's) for those here in the south who what to know. I'll keep you posted if it makes a big diff or no.

Here's hoping eh. Still, miles better so far. Maybe with the relay it will start as easily as a ricer???!:rockon

Was a wee bit worried my selectors had gone with bike popping out of gear a few times recently, but was just loss of traction spinning up the rear in the wet (which you don't REALLY expect in 3rd...). So, wasnt popping out of gear at all.:loser Goes to show how stable the T is. Not even a shimmy. AND I've just saved all that money on a gear overhaul. Nice!:thumbup
 
SJD007 said:
Starting a lot better with lights off, and after three days unplugged I put on the batt conditioner and it went straight to 14.4V in about 5 seconds, so that is great after soldering the regulator.

Still having a bit of a tiz starting though on the really cold days, so have just ordered the Yamaha starter relay NZ$89.90 (new zealand peso's) for those here in the south who what to know. I'll keep you posted if it makes a big diff or no.

Here's hoping eh. Still, miles better so far. Maybe with the relay it will start as easily as a ricer???!:rockon

Was a wee bit worried my selectors had gone with bike popping out of gear a few times recently, but was just loss of traction spinning up the rear in the wet (which you don't REALLY expect in 3rd...). So, wasnt popping out of gear at all.:loser Goes to show how stable the T is. Not even a shimmy. AND I've just saved all that money on a gear overhaul. Nice!:thumbup
Click to expand...
thats great work 007....Moneypenny would be proud of you..... where did u get a switch from to use for headlight and where did you mount it?...i myself hate wiring and pass it off for someone else to do at the earliest chance! Head light switch is definately 'the go' to ease starting and im all for making my sprag clutch last for as long as poss.Can you also tell me the part numba for Yamie solenoid switch and i might replace mine as well?....thanks dude..any help much appreciated!!!
 
No worries - the journey is underway!

The switch I found at **** Smith electronics, Product Code: P7667.

http://www.dse.co.nz/dse.shop/4a530b0200fed2fa273fc0a87f3b0677/Product/View/P7667

But I'm sure anything like that would do. If you remove the headlight cowl (4 bolts, then unplug the headlights at the large white plug, gives easy access to the rear of the relays (looking at front of bike on R (clutch) side). Grab that black wire that goes into the white 9-pin plug and cut it, leaving enough room to either solder or crimp on connectors for the switch. That's it. Just find a nice place to put the switch, I'm going to remount mine up at the controls rather down under the clocks where I have it now as it is a little dangerous to fiddle with while riding!

If you want to be really sure before cutting the wire, unplug the 9-pin joiner, find where the black wire heads up to the switchgear on the handle bars, then place a continuity tester (multimeter) on the pin corresponding to the black wire. It should beep when tested with either of the yellow wires (one in each corner of the plug) only when the light switch is on dip. It should do nothing when the light switch is put on beam. basically, you are putting a cut between the low beam switch and the relay so it doesn't turn the low beam on if circuit broken. High beam will still work normally.

My relay arrived from Red Baron today, NZ$89.90. Need to fit it now. That should just be a swap-out if the forums are correct (and they have been so far!!):cheers:yes

That should do for now...!
 
Do the relay

Done the relay.

No problems starting after a weekend off the charger, and temp around 5 deg C. I reckon it is the most important thing besides soldering the brown and white connectors.

Now I can relax. :rolleyes

And give those F*&^@# white wheels a clean (again).
 
SJD007 said:
Done the relay.

No problems starting after a weekend off the charger, and temp around 5 deg C. I reckon it is the most important thing besides soldering the brown and white connectors.

Now I can relax. :rolleyes

And give those F*&^@# white wheels a clean (again).
Click to expand...
Thats excellent news Simon!,did you have the part number for that Yammie relay so i can get the right one please?...got an e-mail this week to say my parts have finally left the U.K.......they had been on back order at the factory the whole time!!! you'd think with this common problem they would have parts ready made on the shelf to send out!...any more troubles with the old girl and its gona be off to the KTM camp for a Superduke.....thanks dude......chow
 
Starter relay

Hey, that's great news with the parts (well, that they are on their way anyhow).:thumbup

The relay is Yamaha 4KD-81-940-00 100.

Simple unplug, unbolt, rebolt, replug job! I filed the terminals so they were nice and shiny. Feels same weight as the Aprilia part, but I guess has beefier innards. At around $90 worth doing to save that sprag job again... :crazy
 
Hallelujah

:cheersTop man Slymon,thanks for that!,....my parts are in my hot little hand now,only 5 days to be delivered to my door with GST and Duty to pay the bill has totalled $1175.00 all up!!Im off to get some locktite and have downloaded torque settings from here so shes all go........oh Motorcycle Gods please shine down on me!!!:yes
 
indeed!!....i have been carving up the seal again for a while with no problems,head light switch works great and the front wheel seems to be pointing to the sky most of the time....cheers!:yes
 
Cool!

I threw in a HID headlamp recently which is A W E S O M E.

Sucks 35 instead of 55W, but gives 3x the power. Mmmm.
 
well spread the word then bruva!!...how much?,what brand? and where can i get one from?
 
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