After three seasons on the T, and having to limp home twice with a failing rear brake, I decided to investigate the rumors of
swapping in the V4Tuono brake-footpeg setup. Attaching a horizontal master cylinder to a hot, vibrating engine
didn't seem like the smartest decision. Whether that is the root cause, I don't know but we all seem to know that it happens.
Tifa seems to be the one who did this first, at least his was the first I found and read, and queried him about specifics.
His implementation is a bit different because of aftermarket rearsets but the end result is the same.
Quick review: The stock pedal is attached to a bracket, which is attached to the engine case. That bracket also holds the return spring and the brake light switch.
The cylinder plunger attaches to the brake pedal.
The master cylinder is also attached to a bracket, which again is attached to the engine case. There is also a thin sheet metal bracket
between the m/c bracket and the case, with a hole for a drain tube, and possibly as a heat shield for the m/c. The brake line runs under
the swingarm up to a right-angle fitting on the front of the m/c. There is also some wiring to deal with; the brake light switch, the O2 sensor,
and the speed sensor all run under the clutch housing up to the plastic bubble collector.
This is what I'm going for. Purchased off of E-flea, a 2010 Tuono V4 m/c and a 2011 Tuono footpeg. $100. for the m/c, $60. for L&R footpegs
(the L was a bit damaged but I only needed the boot bracket which wasn't damaged). After studying the parts pics for the V4, I realized
I was missing a few parts: the return spring and the two spring perches. Once I had everything I assembled it all and stuck it on the bike.
I removed the stock pedal and bracket, and put bolts in the holes to keep the oil in, and did the same with the m/c. The stock brackets are
cast with a approximate 16mm spacer, so the stock bolts, ~54+mm in length needed to be reduced by 16mm - I didn't have any!
But I did have some spacers, which I cut to length to make up the difference. I will probably get some stainless 40mm socket heads to put in there.
I moved all the wiring up and over the top from the back of the clutch housing. The brake light wiring is comfortably long enough
to attach to the new foot peg mount, using the same style threaded hole as the stock setup "“ perfect. The drain hose and sensor
wire are zip-tied to the fairing support stem.
The next step was to figure out how long the brake line needed to be, and the orientation of the fittings. After looking and measuring N times,
I chose a 30" length eye-to-eye with a straight end at the caliper and a 45º lateral bend at the m/c, the two ends being offset by 90º.
I submitted my order to Speigler on a Monday and I had the hose on Wednesday! $70. The fit was perfect, end-to-end. After the
regular (Aprilia) bleeding was done, it has great pressure and I hope it stays that way. Tifa also suggested adding the bleeder atop the m/c - good call;
once you have good pedal pressure, a quick bleed removes any air out of the top and makes for a really nice firm pedal.
The motor has a clean, if not bare look to it and the whole right side just looks tidier.
and when we get rid of the ice and snow and cold, I'll take it out for an enthusiastic ride and post a followup.
Cheers!
swapping in the V4Tuono brake-footpeg setup. Attaching a horizontal master cylinder to a hot, vibrating engine
didn't seem like the smartest decision. Whether that is the root cause, I don't know but we all seem to know that it happens.
Tifa seems to be the one who did this first, at least his was the first I found and read, and queried him about specifics.
His implementation is a bit different because of aftermarket rearsets but the end result is the same.
Quick review: The stock pedal is attached to a bracket, which is attached to the engine case. That bracket also holds the return spring and the brake light switch.
The cylinder plunger attaches to the brake pedal.
The master cylinder is also attached to a bracket, which again is attached to the engine case. There is also a thin sheet metal bracket
between the m/c bracket and the case, with a hole for a drain tube, and possibly as a heat shield for the m/c. The brake line runs under
the swingarm up to a right-angle fitting on the front of the m/c. There is also some wiring to deal with; the brake light switch, the O2 sensor,
and the speed sensor all run under the clutch housing up to the plastic bubble collector.
This is what I'm going for. Purchased off of E-flea, a 2010 Tuono V4 m/c and a 2011 Tuono footpeg. $100. for the m/c, $60. for L&R footpegs
(the L was a bit damaged but I only needed the boot bracket which wasn't damaged). After studying the parts pics for the V4, I realized
I was missing a few parts: the return spring and the two spring perches. Once I had everything I assembled it all and stuck it on the bike.
I removed the stock pedal and bracket, and put bolts in the holes to keep the oil in, and did the same with the m/c. The stock brackets are
cast with a approximate 16mm spacer, so the stock bolts, ~54+mm in length needed to be reduced by 16mm - I didn't have any!
But I did have some spacers, which I cut to length to make up the difference. I will probably get some stainless 40mm socket heads to put in there.
I moved all the wiring up and over the top from the back of the clutch housing. The brake light wiring is comfortably long enough
to attach to the new foot peg mount, using the same style threaded hole as the stock setup "“ perfect. The drain hose and sensor
wire are zip-tied to the fairing support stem.
The next step was to figure out how long the brake line needed to be, and the orientation of the fittings. After looking and measuring N times,
I chose a 30" length eye-to-eye with a straight end at the caliper and a 45º lateral bend at the m/c, the two ends being offset by 90º.
I submitted my order to Speigler on a Monday and I had the hose on Wednesday! $70. The fit was perfect, end-to-end. After the
regular (Aprilia) bleeding was done, it has great pressure and I hope it stays that way. Tifa also suggested adding the bleeder atop the m/c - good call;
once you have good pedal pressure, a quick bleed removes any air out of the top and makes for a really nice firm pedal.
The motor has a clean, if not bare look to it and the whole right side just looks tidier.
and when we get rid of the ice and snow and cold, I'll take it out for an enthusiastic ride and post a followup.
Cheers!
