Guides What "How Tos" would you like to see???

Hey haven't been n in ages but i always though a flow chart for the common non start issues.

i.e. 1. Does fuel pump prime when ignition on YES go to 2
2. Does engine turnover when starter is pressed. YEs go to 2 if NO possible causes starter solenoid etc etc

With links to how to fix selected issue.

Lot of work but would be awesome

best upgrade for old farts , mpl slave cylinder .

Waterboot a suspension set-up guide? ie fork seals , oils, air-gaps an all that stuff??

BLEEDING THE REAR BRAKE WITHOUT REMOVING THE CALIPER VERY QUICK!!!!!!
HECK YEAH I finally figured it out! This is at Experimental stage at this moment. I'm still testing it ! so far so good My rear brake works good!
This is how I did it after unable to remove the bolt on my caliper cuz my friend screw that bolt in so tight with his animal strength/torque wrench. lol

1) hook up a syringe and vinyl tube with clutch fluid in it without any bubbles at all on the brake bleeder and loosen it a little ! keep your left hand/thumb on it to squeeze)
2) hook up another syringe or whatever you can find to add more fluid in the rear brake reservoir!!! about 6-7 times more than the max level!
3) put a tray under the rear brake if you want to recycle the drained fluid
and
here's the tricky part!!
4) loosen the Brake Line from the caliper and leave a wrench on it!(use ur right hand)
and at the same time squeeze the syringe with ur left hand and pump the rear brake with ur right foot with a brick for your convenience unless your Turkish and you want to use your head or you may use your hot wifey/girl friend or you are Turkish and you have a smoking hot Gf and you want to watch her do this in her heels and thong before dinner lol !!! And pump pump pump squeeze squeeze squeeze watch the rear brake flush on the floor sexy! and suddenly screw the brake line while it's still flushing from there!

VOILA!!!!! you did a great job! I started skidding the rear immediately. This is simpler and faster than it sounds like and a quicker alternative to the method shown Aprilia Repair Manual!


PS. 30 ml horse syringe equine was 80 cents with tax at my local hose supply store in Norco California.
and I'm not sorry for the 70 foot skid mark down the street cuz It will be washed by the rain soon!

That would be nice 89

r896neo said:

Hey haven't been n in ages but i always though a flow chart for the common non start issues.

i.e. 1. Does fuel pump prime when ignition on YES go to 2
2. Does engine turnover when starter is pressed. YEs go to 2 if NO possible causes starter solenoid etc etc

With links to how to fix selected issue.

Lot of work but would be awesome

Click to expand...

Fitting a clutch slave cylinder. Oh, and where get one from too.

how to change a sprag clutch....

go to AF1. theres a real good diagramed presentation on there.

TBH i think id just pay my mechanic, to hell with all that pissing about with the crank.

why are they such a weak point anyway? how does it work differently to a jap bikes starter? i know its a twin with high compression ratios, but still.....

also can ya fit a jap one?

how to, cleaning tips /products etc

How to ride it faster ..

Yeah, how about to get a knee down. I've had a hip replacement about a year and a half a go and the only bloody way i'm begining to think this will happen is when I fall off. I was out doing laps at eastern creek race track and was scrapping the undercarriage ( mind you almost fell off with the shock on the first scrape) and still no Knee scrape! maybe i just can't spread the legs like i use to be able to. And no feed back from you young dudes on that last bit, Steve

This video pretty much covers it, part one and two.

One more cant hurt , or two

Usualy a lot of people put their *** out too much, you only need to move a little bit and when you feel that your outside leg has lock on the tank, than your in the right position. Inner foot fingers on the peg, and outerfoot heel on the peg. And put your head as far out as you can, its never too much

Have in mind that the important thing is to be fast and smooth, other things just come with this

Cheers Dolenc:thumbup

i have a race can scorpion...how can i tell if ive got a chip to go with it....or if its running standard....it does run sweat......

Yeah - I could do with guide on sorting out binding front calipers, just had a quote from InMoto @ £250 plus!! Lawd!

bbstevebb said:

Yeah, how about to get a knee down. I've had a hip replacement about a year and a half a go and the only bloody way i'm begining to think this will happen is when I fall off. I was out doing laps at eastern creek race track and was scrapping the undercarriage ( mind you almost fell off with the shock on the first scrape) and still no Knee scrape! maybe i just can't spread the legs like i use to be able to. And no feed back from you young dudes on that last bit, Steve

Click to expand...

Ball of your foot on the end of the peg. Half of ur *** of the seat EYES FORWARDS!!! (don't look down or youll bin it!) Knee out, Counter steer, And let it happen, don't force it... Be as smooth as possible and Thick sliders to begin wiv. May take some time. Oh and save it of the track!.. Or Try to find a very quiet roundabout Check it for oil /diesel ect on a 'sighting lap' If clear Keep going round increse your lean on each lap (matching ur speed) but PLEASE TAKE IT EASY AND DON'T FORCE IT.

Hope this helps... It's how I get me knee (and Toe slider down) I REALLY AM NO EXPERT THO.

yeah totally agree with kneescraper - i used that technique when i first passed my test - found a fairly large oval type round about and kept going round and round over a course of a few week increasing speed and lean - till touch down - - practice , practice and more practice will develop to a second nature skill -
enjoy and be safe

Should we have a "Things to Consider before you buy post"

A lot of peeps come here as its a great source of information but I don’t see a buyers Guide (well not Yet !)

hi, i am still finding my way around, but i do have a problem on my tank. my overflow is blocked off with the result of fuel seeping from the filler cap if full... what can i do to get the overflow back in order. there are 2 nuts blocking the pipes underneath the tank, am i missing some parts there??

i'd like to see a definitive guide on doing an oil change......i've heard loads of different theories but surely there's just one way of doing it right?

i'd like to see one on bleeding brakes, especially the rear! started a thread in my quest to find out:confused