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WANTED Gen 1 RSV Mille, preferably R version, will travel for the right bike

Nasty!

Looked at the chain tonight and discovered a nasty! It has DID 530 ZVM2 chain but does not have the corresponding rear sprocket as the chain moves 3-4mm from side to side on the rear sprocket! Not sure about the front, will have to investigate further at the weekend,
John.
 
Old bikes!, mine has only 2 previous owners, about 8 years each. So it seems very good, it's only done 15k miles and the oil drain only produced a few very small flakes from the oil (rotax gearboxes seem very hard coating and even the 2 stroke 125's produce some fine metal particles, the only thing I would like on this bike is separate gearbox oil compartment, it makes no sense to me to have clutch friction material , and shards of gears being pumped into the the crank and cams !)

The bike is on its abba stand awaiting the rear shock being returned from a referb (it had no gas in it , the guy servicing it recons it's never been touched in 16 years) and the front forks were low on oil and needed a good service....

My knee is giving concern, I have an infection in the joint, and now on 2 different types of antibiotics, and I've been told to rest the knee ! The op was done at pine hill in hitchin, so very local !

Your chain problem would possibly mean new chain and sprockets, I had a chain break years ago , it's not fun when the rear wheel locks at 70mph (honest officer ! I was only moving slowly when it broke) lol

Might be an idea to change the oil ? You have to drain the oil tank, the oil crankcase sump and then the oil filter, aprilia (rotax) used 2 different sized filters because of oil starvation on the smaller filter ! You have to take the filter out to see which you need , doh...
 
Here is a pic of the location of the drain sequence...



Stolen from the interweaving Google pictures...
 
Hope you make a full recovery soon, I will have to give my bike a thorough going over now, noticed the rear tyre isn't quite the right size 190/55 should be 180/55 to match the front 120/70 I think (has 190/50 as an alternative with a130 section front), not sure if it makes a noticeable difference? Found the clutch master cylinder micro switch was hanging loose and it also appears that the sidestand swich has been disconnected (not sure if this is a bad thing). The more I look the more I find! I'm not going to take anything for granted now and go over it witha a fine tooth comb, don't think I'm going to be riding it for at least a couple of weeks now,
John.
 
That combination of tyres would possibly slow down the steering a bit. Modern tyres are fantastic compared to what I started on ( a new rd250 with horrible Japanese brick rubber, I rode for 2 months with no crashes, the first rain the bike stepped out, they were lethal lol.)
With any old bike it's a good idea to go through the bike , the wheel bearings I find are always notchy, I take the wheel off and if there is any resistance they are scrap. All the mille's wheel bearing although skf were very stiff. I am sure bearings used to be better than the **** they sell now ?
Same with oil , these bikes run hot and with just over a litre of coolant, the oil does most of the cooling, this stresses the oil, I like to use good oils, and change regularly, every few thousand miles on colour and smell !
Also I like to see if the wiring is good, I don't like breaking down , ( I had a ducati stolen in the late 70's coming back from Snetterton because of **** italian wiring)

Good luck on not finding anything to bad, the wiring for example is a lot better than previous italian efforts, but the main cables to the starter were not good enough when new. You can get good upgrades now, expensive but a thousand times better than oem !

ES-23 Aprilia RSV Mille 98-03 & Tuono 02-05 Hi Cap Electric Upgrade Cable Kit | eBay

That and getting a mosfet regulator , the oem is a shunt rgulator rectifier and stresses the magneto. A 150 amp starter solenoid is a good buy after upgrading the starter and earth wires.

Here is a good a list of upgrades/things to look out for....

Reference Thread - Common Issues Info
 
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The perceived wisdom is that rear tyres should either be 180/55 or 190/55, the latter giving better grip at the slight expense of ability to tip in quickly


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Oh and Metzeler M7RR are my personal favourite - I'd go Michelin pilot road 4 if I did more wet weather and winter riding


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Looks like I'm going to have quite a list of thinks to check and upgrade! Still got the Fireblade to finish as well! Thanks for all the info, will keep at it 'til it's sorted,
John.
 
Looking very nice after your clean up......did you sort out if the chip is the right one for twin cans ?
 
All I know is it's a Dr Rossi chip, it runs great, very smooth and no flat spots, loads of torque all the way through so I believe it is the correct one for the current set up - It's got more than enough power for me so I doubt if I will do any performance mods, need to get the handling sorted first!
 
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