RSV HID Xenon Dipped Headlamp Conversion

Baz said:

Just make sure that you order the correct bulb fitment kit, mine was H7 but early RSV's are H4.

Lads
be careful, my late 2007 RSV has H11 lamps fitted, instead of walking the extra 5 yards to the garage to check before ordering I checked my manual and ordered two sets of H7 only to find when i tried to fit them today two weeks after delivery, that I have got the wrong ones. Doh! Damn! Double Fek!!

If any of you guys want a set, or a pair then let me know i will let them go for £30 plus whatever it costs to post, i suspect that wont be a lot they are not very heavy. They are from the same guy who AMB67 used in Hong Kong and although the instructions are completely gobbledy ****, i suspect that with the right kit they are pretty easy...... they are the 6000K so are a polar white and as close to daylight as you get, not the colour tinted type

Click to expand...

Baz, your not the first to do this and you won't be the last mate.

Best to create a for sale thread and add some piccies, they seem to sell easier with piccies. (Less scary for the technically challenged)

mr amb

have you got a working ebay link for your HID kit as the one you originally posted in this thread no longer works. ive dug through ebay but aprilia kits and prices range from £5 (?) to £60+.

thanks in advance

aPeMunky said:

mr amb

have you got a working ebay link for your HID kit as the one you originally posted in this thread no longer works. ive dug through ebay but aprilia kits and prices range from £5 (?) to £60+.

thanks in advance

Click to expand...

What year RSV have you got and what headlamp bulb is in it?

Is it a H4, H7 etc....?

It appears that they have gone up in price since I purchased mine, this kit is the same as I bought - Click Me

its a 2002 model so i guess i'll be wanting an H7

thanks for the link, that was the kit i was looking at but since it was £60 i thought yours was different, the price has doubled in a few months!
haven't they heard of recession!

still its on the list of things to get, ts just that at £30 i would have bought it tonight. i just put my name down for a 'hooked' airbox as well so this could be an expensive month.

thanks

just got another question.
how many bulbs come with the HID kit? it sounds like 1
but the standard set up uses 1 for dip and 2 others for high beam.

do i need to order 2 other HID bulbs and would they fit the wiring balast?

just need some clarification
ta

aPeMunky said:

just got another question.
how many bulbs come with the HID kit? it sounds like 1
but the standard set up uses 1 for dip and 2 others for high beam.

do i need to order 2 other HID bulbs and would they fit the wiring balast?

just need some clarification
ta

Click to expand...

Just one bulb with the HID kit, that's the dipped beam.

You'll never use main beam again after fitting the HID kit, no need as you'll not see any difference, the HID's that good.

Yeah, H7 for yours.

I agree, air box first sod the visibility when you can listen to that induction roar. LOL

PS. You may want to look at the post I added for the main beam switch mod, it stops the HID powering down when you hit the main beam button/flash switches.

thanks

looking forward to seeing around the country lanes when i get home late at night, HIDs seem to be amazing.

regarding the airbox roar, i loved it on my old zx6r, it really makes you feel as if you are caning it, looovely.

yep, already read your mod, its on the list of things to do, must get diode
cheers

If you want to mod the wiring so that the low beam stays on when you flick the high beam on search I posted a link showing how to do it easily and cheaply. I did this mod even though I don't use the high beam that much as I hardly ever ride at night.
Definitely a plus for being seen on the road.
Pete

Piece of p**s mate

Step 1: Remove the nose fairing from the bike,mirror bolts,plus 1 each side above the airtubes,then 1 each side under the unit above the front guard,( centre one can be left )then unplug the wiring harness from the l/h loom. ( 5 mins with practice)

Step 2: Remove the dip beam rubber cover and cut the centre out with a sharp knife to take the grommet on the HID loom.

Step 3: I used sticky back velcro tape to secure the small block thing to the top of the headlight housing





I originally fitted the ballast here with the same velcro,but due to it getting warm it melted the adhesive and fell off.

NOT RECOMMENDED




Eventually I hung the ballast off the tubular support under the clocks on the l/hand side with 2 large cable ties.

This is visible but at least it's secure. Unfortunately I never got around to taking a pic of that.

The conections to the bulb are self explanatory,they will only go together one way. The burner just fits in like the standard bulb.

Hope this helps,if you need any more info just shout and I'll do what I can to help.

Ian

PS: DON'T forget to plug the main loom back into bike will you??

This is best done before you bolt everything back in place,as I found out :jack:jack:jack:jack

RSV_Ecosse said:

Outstanding!!!. Many thanks for that, cheers.

So you don't have to run anything wire wise back to the battery terminals under the seat then?. It all just plugs in between the ballast, the wee box thing and the bulb/bulb holder?.

'Cause the kit I have here looks like it has two long ( a pos and neg ) wires that are of a long enough length to run to the battery terminals?.

Or maybe I'm just not looking at it correctly. Here is a pic that of the exact kit I have. I know it is the exact kit as it is the one from AREESSMILL's "For Sale" thread at the time....lol!!! :-

Click to expand...

Tony
No problems at all with the MOT, cars have to have a self levelling system so as not to dazzle on coming traffic, strangely there are no such requirements for bikes.......YET.

saint nick
I have also done the Diode mod so the dip stays on with the mains, looks a bit silly really as all you get from the mains is two small orange tinges added to the awesome blue/white beam spread. If it weren't for the hassle of finding room for the gubbins I'd convert the mains as well.

RSV_Ecosse
That kit looks a bit bigger and more '' agricultural'' than mine. I think that is assuming the standard lights are not relay fed,and they are tapping the battery direct. Bit more of a pain running the wires back but the principle is the same.

I got mine from Mick Oliver as he bought a dual burner kit and only converted one beam, I don't know where he sourced it from originally.

That looks like an early kit H4 type bulb kit or perhaps even a Bi-Xenon model burner.

Piece of cake to wire in mate, should have basic instructions with it, if you get stuck drop me a PM and I'll get back to you ASAP.

I'll PM you my email address just in case I'm not on the forum or the site goes down. :thumbup

RSV_Ecosse said:

Outstanding!!!. Many thanks for that, cheers.

So you don't have to run anything wire wise back to the battery terminals under the seat then?. It all just plugs in between the ballast, the wee box thing and the bulb/bulb holder?.

'Cause the kit I have here looks like it has two long ( a pos and neg ) wires that are of a long enough length to run to the battery terminals?.

Or maybe I'm just not looking at it correctly. Here is a pic that of the exact kit I have. I know it is the exact kit as it is the one from AREESSMILL's "For Sale" thread at the time....lol!!! :-

Click to expand...

saint nick said:

Anyone do this who had previously done the diode mod, ie dipped stays on when switching to main beam?

Just wondering how that would effect this set up.........:dunno

Click to expand...

I have. That has the advantage of doing away with any delay in the HID firing up. Or, in some cases, not firing up No problems with the MOT either.

I was out last night in the dark and drizzle, (first time for ages) and switching to main beam was a waste of time. No noticeable benefit at all, the dip beam is that good.