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Rear suspension needle bearings in suspension connecting rod & swingarm (dog bones)

Thanks Felix,

Final question (hopefully). Is it best to push old bearings out with centre pin (spigot) in situ, to help stop bearing housing collapsing, etc?

PS: I recommend removing centre pin and spraying WD40, or similar, between the bearings to help make extraction a bit easier (then depending on answer to above question, replacing centre pin). Evidently, my bearings are quite tight. I'll also warm the dogbone as Aluminium expands more than steel, and will help.
 
Use a socket....

Find one that just fits inside the dog bone hole... I did it "ratchet end" against the bearing that way it pushes the whole bearing (for removal)

Soak in wd40 the night before.. didn't need any heat.

If you can access a vice it is alot easier

Few methods shown here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxVVa69Rw78

Vice method is shown at 4 minutes

:)
 
Last edited:
Felix, appreciated. I am using the socket Method. Do u remove the spiggot/bush situated inside bearing before pressing out, (I.e. to help stop bearing crushing), or leave in situ? There is enough clearance in receiving socket, but just wondered on best technique .
 
You can remove the "Pin" ( bush) before removing the bearing. The socket should be large enough so that it touches all the way around the outer race. That way you are pushing the whole casing and it should not distort.
 
I just bought an extremely nice 2010 Tuono 1000R...and then found out about this issue. Were the 2010 models also affected? Or did Aprilia start using an upgraded part later in the production of the Gen 2 bike???
 
As far as I know mucker, they're all tarred with the same brush.
 
tuono kid said:
Or should that be lack of lubricant brush!
Click to expand...


Not arrf mucker.

I recall buying the af1 upgraded plates because they rekoned the dog bone failures were down to the plates being to weak.

Little did they know Guido the factory grease monkey was flogging the grease to his mates.
 
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