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Whats the slave please?
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Slave, is that the main brake block with the pads in ? No I haven't tried doing that. Just tried like any other bike in the past.
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Yes, the caliper.
Have a look here at kzmille's instructions.
Pictures included.
Recurring Clutch and Rear Brake Issues
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- Nov 16, 2011
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Will do, I will take the calliper off and bleed it that way. Will let you know. Cheers.
View attachment 5212Personally I think the best looking, most elegant and "factory" looking solution is the RSV4 conversion!
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Is there a list of parts needed and/or how to for that?
RSV4 Conversion.
Hi gavp,
It's been a long while since I converted mine, the rear brake has been, rock solid "perfect" ever since.
I'll give it a good "looking at", figure out everything you'll need and get back to you.
Just a quick note; I got all of the genuine Aprilia parts off eBay, (I'll list what you'll need, including part numbers if you decide to buy new).
I'll rhyme off everything that needs to be done, parts you'll need, modifications and hopefully include some pictures.
I'll sort it when I have a bit of spare time.
Hi gavp,
It's been a long while since I converted mine, the rear brake has been, rock solid "perfect" ever since.
I'll give it a good "looking at", figure out everything you'll need and get back to you.
Just a quick note; I got all of the genuine Aprilia parts off eBay, (I'll list what you'll need, including part numbers if you decide to buy new).
I'll rhyme off everything that needs to be done, parts you'll need, modifications and hopefully include some pictures.
I'll sort it when I have a bit of spare time.
Seems to be my experience too. Bought mine at around 4 months and 1200 miles old. Had it nigh on 8 years now, and been one of the most reliable bikes owned. But, always used a optimate, so no sprag issues, and use it regularly. A Ducati dealer said to me recently, that the bikes they have in regularly with faults, are the one's that are parked up and not used regularly. So maybe there's a clue
Nice one, thanks
RSV4 conversion, here goes, hope I can remember everything.
Here's the original set-up.
View attachment 5366
Remove the rear brake lever (unscrew and set aside the brake light switch for later) and master cylinder (leave the brake hose attached for now) as well as the two small alloy (castings) mounting brackets, which are 15mm thick at the bolt holes, so at this point you will need three new, 15mm shorter cap allen bolts; "one" M6 X 35mm and "two" M8 X 40mm. Then replace the heat shield only as the original guide for the overflow pipe and neatly route and cable tie the brake light and speedo cables.
View attachment 5367View attachment 5368
You will now need the right-hand rear set (and heel plates, both sides) from an RSV4, ideally complete off eBay, as I did. If you decide to buy new from Aprilia, cross reference the part numbers as many original parts can be re-used, e.g. foot rest, brake pedal (on lever), return spring, etc. If the right hand side heel plate, (new) master cylinder mounting bolts (X2) don't come with the rear set, "DO NOT" buy them from Aprilia, they will be 8mm too short, seriously! You will need "two" button allen bolts; M6 X 20mm. As you can see from the pictures, I "engineered" the RSV4 silencer mount off (it can be left in place without fouling anything) and the small hole directly behind the footrest mount will need to be tapped with an M6 thread, to support the upper end of the belly pan mounting plate.
You will also need the RSV4 Brembo combined master cylinder/reservoir. If, like me, you decide to buy a new one, "DO NOT" buy from Aprilia, the "exact" same part is used on numerous KTM motocross/enduro (I believe the latest version is a slightly different design and cheaper still) bikes and mine was, to the penny, half the price from KTM. Also from KTM, buy the alloy operating rod that fits directly into the master cylinder.
View attachment 5369
Now bolt everything onto your right hand rear set, Brembo master cylinder/reservoir and operating rod, attach brake hose at this point (but only fully tighten when everything is in place and it's routed neatly), screw in the brake light switch (for some reason I had to fit a 1mm spacer to get mine to work right) and belly pan mounting plate. The belly pan mounting plate with it's original (hex head) bolt would foul the new brake linkage, so I counter sunk the plate (as it's steel, you'll need a HSS counter sink) and fitted it with a counter sunk M6 X 10mm allen bolt.
I'll mention at this point that I've read in other RSV4 conversion posts, that there was a need to make a new belly pan mounting plate and to have a shorter brake hose made (the hose routes forward around the front of the swinging arm), in my case I found them both to be perfect, belly pan mount spot on and the brake hose ideal length and clearance.
View attachment 5370View attachment 5371
When you re-fit the complete right hand rear set to the frame, check the clearance between the brake lever pivot bolt and the swinging arm. The clearance from bike to bike varies and as the clearance on mine wasn't as much as I would like, I fitted some 4mm spacers between the rear sets (I did both sides) and the frame. The spacers I used were karting ride height adjusters, M8 (inner) X 20mm (outer) X 4mm (thick) available from Spellframe karting at £1.10 (plus VAT) each.
(I can't seem to upload any more pictures, I'll continue with an extra post. back soon)!!
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Back again!
View attachment 5372
The picture above shows everything in place with the 4mm spacers between the rear sets and the frame.
View attachment 5373
You should now have your complete RSV4 set-up as shown. Bleed the brake, get it up on the paddock stand and check the operation.
Now for what I fount to be the trickiest part, but hopefully my experience will be helpful and make things much easier.
The new forward facing RSV4 brake lever will foul, prevent you re-fitting the belly pan and will need to be cut out to clear it. Others have gone for an easier (in my opinion), straighter and greater removal of part of the belly pan (their marker line is shown on the belly pan before removal of the excess material) as shown below;
View attachment 5374
I considered this but decided on a neater, minimum material removal choice. On reflection, I'm glad I went down this path as the clearance is pretty much perfect without removing any more of the belly pan than absolutely necessary. I hope that the following picture and measurements make sense. I drew a line measured 30mm (parallel) from the straight edge of the back of the belly pan and then from the top edge of the belly pan, measured 33mm along my original line. From that point, I drew a second line at 90° back up to the top of the belly pan. I cut out the resulting notch, with a 5mm radius (using a 10mm drill) at the corner for a neater look.
View attachment 5375View attachment 5376
This isn't the cheapest or simplest solution to the RSV rear brake problem, but I have no regrets with regard to how it looks and works, the rear brake has been "perfect" since the conversion.
Hope this might have been helpful and that I haven't missed anything out, (if anyone embarks on this project and has any problems, get in touch).
View attachment 5372
The picture above shows everything in place with the 4mm spacers between the rear sets and the frame.
View attachment 5373
You should now have your complete RSV4 set-up as shown. Bleed the brake, get it up on the paddock stand and check the operation.
Now for what I fount to be the trickiest part, but hopefully my experience will be helpful and make things much easier.
The new forward facing RSV4 brake lever will foul, prevent you re-fitting the belly pan and will need to be cut out to clear it. Others have gone for an easier (in my opinion), straighter and greater removal of part of the belly pan (their marker line is shown on the belly pan before removal of the excess material) as shown below;
View attachment 5374
I considered this but decided on a neater, minimum material removal choice. On reflection, I'm glad I went down this path as the clearance is pretty much perfect without removing any more of the belly pan than absolutely necessary. I hope that the following picture and measurements make sense. I drew a line measured 30mm (parallel) from the straight edge of the back of the belly pan and then from the top edge of the belly pan, measured 33mm along my original line. From that point, I drew a second line at 90° back up to the top of the belly pan. I cut out the resulting notch, with a 5mm radius (using a 10mm drill) at the corner for a neater look.
View attachment 5375View attachment 5376
This isn't the cheapest or simplest solution to the RSV rear brake problem, but I have no regrets with regard to how it looks and works, the rear brake has been "perfect" since the conversion.
Hope this might have been helpful and that I haven't missed anything out, (if anyone embarks on this project and has any problems, get in touch).
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- Nov 16, 2011
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Brilliant write up. I was going to go that way until yesterday when I followed the link on how to bleed the standard rear caliper by removing it and placing it above the line of the master cylinder then bleeding it that way. Did it in ten minutes. Two years I have had no back brake until yesterday. Now it locks up as it should. How long will it last? We will see.
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About 250 miles. Unless you are a consistent lottery winner.
If it does go soft, just hang a tin of paint on the pedal overnight to restore it.
Then start saving for some rearsets.
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Lol, your probably right. Time will tell. I do have the shiver 750 master cylinder and vacuum pump fitted though, apparently that is better than the Brembo original.
PLEASE NOTE!!
I made a mistake in the first part of this post.
I should have said that you will need "FOUR" new 15mm shorter Allen cap head bolts, "ONE" M6 X 35mm and "THREE" (I mistakenly earlier said two) M8 X 40mm.
Apologies!
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- Hertfordshire
Well, I've bitten the bullet and ordered a 1098 (Brembo) rear brake master cylinder for my RSV from my local Ducati dealer. I will most probably have to fit a new brake line, too, which I'll have made up from a local specialist. I'll try to do a full report once it's all done.
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I'd love to have more updates, but my bike's out of action at the moment...damn thing won't start, and I haven't had the time to diagnose the error.
