Rear brake success!

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dazthephot

dazthephot

Joined
Apr 20, 2012
Messages
207
Yep, mentioned a million times before I know. Finally I have a great rear brake.
No rear sets, no change of MC, no heat shield, just a good bleed technique.
So for what it's worth here's my tips.

You gotta take off the calliper and suspend it.
You have to bleed through at least 4 reservoirs worth of new fluid.
You have to position the calliper in different angles and tap it to clear the bubbles.
When the nipple is closed pump rapidly to build the pressure then open and hold down before closing.

That's it!

A bit self congratulatory I know but it was my final job after servicing ready to ride after a 6 month layup.
 
Good work. I've given up tried bleeding from all angles and methods I think some are worse than others. Mot next week so I'm using the cheats method of hanging a tin of paint of the pedal!
 
Ha I may be speaking too soon time will tell. I got fed up of the pre mot night before routine
I just think there's some that are good and some that aren't. Nothing else really.
Ride safe.
 
My rear brake would be fine, but over time it tends to fade more and more during the course of a ride...the longer and hotter, the worse it gets. I'm going to be upgrading my MC to the one fitted to the Ducati 1098S very soon...apparently this works a treat.
 
Be interested to hear how you get on with it.
Today was my first rest ride after servicing it. Rear brake is **** on (even though I don't really use it) so far, I'll ride it a month and see if it stays good.
First issue is to take some oil out, I filled it too high so now there's oil in the air box. Then right the banjo bolt on the clutch as I bled it a little and there's a tiny dribble of fluid and the bite point is different. Apart from that it runs fine.
 
New to this forum but have had the usual rear brake problem, i hang a 5kg weight off pedal once a week and no more problem. Which makes me think it is a cavitation problem as all you are try to do is force air out, so will be looking into different ways of mounting main reservoir etc to provide damping on a non stressed part.
 
Welcome.
I used to do that too until it stopped having any affect. For some reason after bleeding with the calliper at different angles I was able to get more air out and it has stayed rock solid for a good few months now.
Be interested in your mods though.
 
I was thinking that if you look at how the reservoir and master cylinder are mounted how about looking at different types of rubber mounting onto shouldered bolts, it should really only be about altering the frequency that this problem happens at.
 
That would certainly dampen the vibration. There are many suggested reasons for the poor brake but consensus is cavitation. What's odd is that by mounting the MC upright on rear sets that cures the problem. Surely the vibration level is the same no matter where it's bolted.
 
From what i can understand the vibration is very different. I think if you look the engine is rubber mounted to dampen vibration in the frame if not probably shake itself to peaces.
Imagine how much vibration you feel through your footrests, very little. Now imagine your footrests bolted to the engine direct the feel would be very different.
Frequency is measured in Hertz and this will change all over the bike, i have the tools available to me to make up a jig to experiment on set ups to start with. So i am going to buy some second hand parts on ebay to play with setting things up before putting on the bike.
 
Is it your intention to only work with what's fitted to the bike already? There has been numerous solutions that have cured the problem but mostly by adding parts like a shiver MC or new rearsets that allow the MC to be moved etc. it would be good to find a mod that didn't involve buying any replacement parts.
 
Yep only intend to mod using what is on the bike, the most i think you will need is some different bolts and some rubber bushes and seating cups. The equipment there is perfectly good so no reason why it shouldn't work as you would expect on any bike.
 
Buster said:
I was thinking that if you look at how the reservoir and master cylinder are mounted how about looking at different types of rubber mounting onto shouldered bolts, it should really only be about altering the frequency that this problem happens at.
Click to expand...

Tried this a few years back, without sucess.
I simply altered the mass of the m/c to alter frequencies.
FWIW I believe the problem does have something to do with vibration.
 
Yeah it's all to do with vibration and it's just about dialing that out. Shouldn't be to hard in the end. Also think in the end will be able to find a broad range of damping to cover most bikes as obviously each engine creates it's own frequency.
 
I am convinced that the hydraulic line not being on top doesn't help the situation.

My modification is nearly done, delayed by the need to turn down the brake pedal rod, as there was a boss on it. Not having a lathe, I had to find someone to do me a favour. Hoping to fit and test it all out this weekend. All being well, I'll do a little how-to with some photos.
 
Everything is fitted and working as it should now...only those who know would be able to tell it's not OEM. Will start testing it and see how it fairs in comparison, then I'll write my how-to guide. :)
 
Finally managed to make the inaugural ride of the year today, commuting to work, and on a day when the traffic was horrendous. It's just as well I now have a back brake that works to make manoeuvring easier and more controllable. In fact, the new set-up feels better than the OEM ever did; I can actually stop the bike with it now. Early days, yet, and I need to make sure that its performance doesn't fade over time, but looking good, so far.
 

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