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Guides Rear Brake Master Cylinder Upgrade for RSV1000

How To Guides
dazthephot said:
Incidentally I have a weight on the pedal as we speak
Click to expand...

First, you need to bleed the system to ensure there is no air in the line and/or caliper. After this, it needs to be primed; removing any trapped air within the master cylinder itself. As there is no bleed nipple this end, the weight on the pedal allows the release of this back into the reservoir.

As far as the pedal travel is concerned, it should not be excessive. If it is, then you have air within the system, somewhere.
 
OK thanks. I'm going to have another go at it and use my vacuum pump to draw more fluid through. I've had it good in the past so I should be able to get it back. Cheers
 
Had another go, looks like there was air left in the system. Got a decent brake now with less lever travel, prob around 35mm which I can live with. Used the vacuum bleeder instead of the lever pump method.
 
dazthephot said:
Had another go, looks like there was air left in the system. Got a decent brake now with less lever travel, prob around 35mm which I can live with. Used the vacuum bleeder instead of the lever pump method.
Click to expand...

I measured the pedal travel on mine at 20mm excluding any free-play.
 
That's way better than mine. I might try fiddling with the push rod. I reckon the more fluid in the MC the less pressure required to actuate the brake. My theory anyway.
 
Good luck !!!
I'm very happy with that solution. Wasn't cheap but most definitely solved the problem.
I'm now 7k km after the installation and can still lock the rear if I'm not careful with the lever.
 
ride4fun said:
I haven't given up on this yet. Going to try reverse bleeding to ensure the system is completely air-free.
Click to expand...
Hope that works for you. I tried that too to no avail. My MOT garage knows about the brake problems and is sympathetic so as long as I don't turn up with no brake at all I get a pass. I can hold the bike for a hill start but I can't lock up the wheel.
 
Who every offered up hanging a can of paint on the brake pedal. It has worked! How long will this fix last?

Bryn.
 
Bryn said:
Who every offered up hanging a can of paint on the brake pedal. It has worked! How long will this fix last?

Bryn.
Click to expand...

will last about 1 month plus... for me it failed after going on my 2nd ride... sadly...

finally I upgrade to an aftermarket rearset. permanently solved.
 
ario80 said:
I thought that it is mostly the issue with the Aprilia pump having failures... Which Duc pumps do the job 1098, 750 ?
Click to expand...

The problem is a gradual degredation of braking performance, presumably from aeration within the master cylinder. Thorough bleeding helps, but it seems to be only a matter of time before the problem recurs; could be days, months or years. Also, the horizontal layout will never produce as much braking force as the vertically mounted solution, which does not seem to aerate through use.

I fitted the master cylinder from a Ducati 1098, but although it is better, it still isn't a permant fix to the problem. I may end up going the rearset route, one day.
 
@ride4fun

OK, now I have the full picture. The vertical m/c will require a new set of pegs (lever) as well, correct?
 
ario80 said:
@ride4fun

OK, now I have the full picture. The vertical m/c will require a new set of pegs (lever) as well, correct?
Click to expand...

You will need rearsets to which the the master cylinder and reservoir will need to be mounted to, together with the brake light switch. A new brake line will also be required, probably. Aprilia Performance make some very nice rearsets, or you could try soucing some from an RSV4 if you are after an OEM look.
 
Para said:
All the pictures are gone now from this Thread...
Click to expand...

Photobucket have changed their terms of use and I am not willing to pay what they are charging to facilitate third party hosting. I will find an alternative method and have this fixed soon. :)
 
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