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Noob Rsv Owner! Already wishing I bought a Jap bike!

Joined Aug 2012
12 Posts | 0+
Huddersfield UK
Hello all,

Well, after owning my 2002 Rsv Millie for 2 days it's already proving to be as unreliable as people told me it would be!

The previous owner is a life long Aprilia owner and said that he's done all the wiring mods to the bike. And the battery was a Yuasa which was a couple of months old.

Anyway, problems started this morning when I tried starting it. Battery had gone flat over night after it was fine for the whole day before hand. Charged it, reset all the dash back to mph and see the rev limiter light, fired it up and went out on a run. Got 10 miles from home and the fuel warning light came on, which was strange as I only filled it the night before. Pulled into petrol station and it started coughing like it was almost out of juice. Started fueling and it clicked off at £4. Paid, came out and nothing. Just a click and the dash went out when the start button was pressed.

Left it there a few hours whilst Halfords robbed me £60 for a new YTX14, went home and threw the acid in a out it on a fast charge to top it up. Went back and out it in the bike and whilst tightening the bolts up I noticed a couple of wires unplugged so fastened them together. Its only now I realise that is the Diaagnostic. So unplugged it and it got rid of the Diag 1 code. But now my main problem is the dash buttons don't work at all apart from the R button to reset the trip mileage.

This is really bugging me now as its stuck in kph and I cant turn the volt meter on or anything. I've tried holding A+B together to run the clock test but that doesn't work either.

Is there a fuse that might have blow during the battery change that operates the buttons or a dash reset or something? It seems very strange that 2 hours before they worked fine and now they don't respond at all...

Sorry for the huge post but the details might help someone to resolve my situation! :)

Cheers

Steve
 
Can't really help you but I'm not sure a 10 year old jap bike with knackered battery would have faired any better.
 
Hi Steve, you didn't say if the bike was running OK now. Did you keep the old battery just in case there was nothing wrong with it ? (£60 is a good price btw)

Are you trying the buttons with the motor running ? i know some operations only work with the engine off.

I'm sure someone will read your post and give you the answer, stick with it !
 
Sorry yeah, after the battery was fitted it fired up and ran fine on the way home. Yeah, kept the old battery to charge and see what condition is in. Oh, that's good that the price is fair, I just think Halfords is always over priced.

No, buttons are being operated with the engine off. Like I said, everything worked fine before the battery died and replaced. :-\
 
Hi Steve

Welcome to the forum and to Aprilia ownership stick with it and you will grow to love the bike!

My advice would be to remove the battery form the bike and charge it over night on a good charger then pop it back on in the morning and see how it goes from there. I had a similar problem with mine being temperamental, when the battery was fully charged all was good again.

Fingers crossed

Andy
 
Thanks for all the replies. The clocks are sorted now. Took them apart and sprayed some contact clean on the micro switches as they looked a bit green and they are fine now.

Just the charging issue to sort now. Difficult when all the wiring mods need to be opened up!

Should I be worried that the battery has 12.5v but when bikes running its still got 12.5v at 4k rpm? Yet, it can be run for 20 mins and after its been switched off the battery still has 12.5v in it? I don't want to go out and get stranded again!

Cheers

Steve
 
on idle my dash says 13.3 ish volts ... think you got a charging issue there ... check ya stator connectors and ya stator
 
Thanks for all the replies. The clocks are sorted now. Took them apart and sprayed some contact clean on the micro switches as they looked a bit green and they are fine now.

Just the charging issue to sort now. Difficult when all the wiring mods need to be opened up!

Should I be worried that the battery has 12.5v but when bikes running its still got 12.5v at 4k rpm? Yet, it can be run for 20 mins and after its been switched off the battery still has 12.5v in it? I don't want to go out and get stranded again!

Cheers

Steve
Measure this at the battery with a multimeter, it does sound worrying and could be why the battery ran out when the bike was running.
Sounds like the wiring needs a good going over.
Just because the PO done the mods doesnt mean they knew what they were doing!!
 
Yeah, those readings are from a meter at the battery. Well I hope its something simple and inexpensive otherwise its back on ebay! Lol!
 
Hi Steve,

Off the dashboard I've got 12.5 with ignition on 13.6 with the engine running decreases when the engine revs are up!

Do you have a Datatool Alarm immobiliser as I believe these can put a drain on the battery, I keep my bike on the Optimiser 3 when I'm not using it and haven't had a problem yet: satisfied.....fingers crossed?

Andy
 
Nothing to do with an alarm if the voltage doesnt go up when the bike is running then there is no charging going on, all that will happen is the bike will use the battery to run untill it runs out of juice.
The voltage should rise to 13-14v when charging (bike running) and fully charged at rest (i.e. bike off and wait for a min) voltage should be 12.6V
You will need to check the 3 wires comming from the stator first then the regulator/rectifier next!

"You need to test the output from the alternator, that would be the 3 wires (yellow in colour ?) going to a large connector block at the REC/REC.
With the engine running you need to connect a multimeter (VACsetting !!)across each of the terminals.
That is between 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 you should be getting around 60 vac rising to around 80 vac at 4500-5000 rpm (you wont need to go higher than that).
HOWEVER
If you dont get those kind of readings all is not lost , there is another connector between the cylinders that can get horribly furred up and this causes a high resistance which then melts it causing a lack of charge." http://rsvzone.com/forums/showthread.php?10810-Electric-Problems-Charging&highlight=stator+check

check out this thread too http://rsvzone.com/forums/showthread.php?2484-Brown-Bast-d-connectors&highlight=brown connectors
 
The wiring mods have been done so had clip them in half again. Checked the yellows on vac on got 0v. So my suspicion is the connector between the engine V. Again, no connector and soldered and taped up. Zero access so I'm taking it to a shop tomorrow as I can't be arsed messing about with it anymore!!!

Cheers guys.

Steve
 
Well, its 3:30am and just finished fixing my charging problem after 7.5 hours!

To be honest I can't believe what I've seen. The stator was on BACK TO FRONT so the flywheel shredded the wiring. So it explains why the person I bought it off put a brand new 14amp battery, fresh oil and fresh generator basket on. He must have been having problems and in his wisdom, put it on back to front. And when I phoned and asked for his advice he said it would be something of nothing like a loose connection.So had to re wire the stator and reg/rec. Got rid of all his crappy 'wiring mods' and routed some heavy gauge wiring down the left side away from the V of the engine and up the subframe to the reg/rec.

Never again shall I trust someone who says they've sorted a bike! Now I can actually go out and enjoy the bike. So my faith in Aprilia has been restored and it human stupidity that caused its fault!

Thanks for all the advice and my rant is now over!

Cheers

Steve
 
Well, its 3:30am and just finished fixing my charging problem after 7.5 hours!

To be honest I can't believe what I've seen. The stator was on BACK TO FRONT so the flywheel shredded the wiring. So it explains why the person I bought it off put a brand new 14amp battery, fresh oil and fresh generator basket on. He must have been having problems and in his wisdom, put it on back to front. And when I phoned and asked for his advice he said it would be something of nothing like a loose connection.So had to re wire the stator and reg/rec. Got rid of all his crappy 'wiring mods' and routed some heavy gauge wiring down the left side away from the V of the engine and up the subframe to the reg/rec.

Never again shall I trust someone who says they've sorted a bike! Now I can actually go out and enjoy the bike. So my faith in Aprilia has been restored and it human stupidity that caused its fault!

Thanks for all the advice and my rant is now over!

Cheers

Steve

Glad you got it sorted Steve, now go round his house and pour sugar in his car's petrol tank.
Knowingly selling a bike in that condition is criminal

Miff
 
Its very lary! Bloody love the grunt. Its going to be difficult getting back on my I4's!
 
nice one mate glad youve got it sorted and now can enjoy your bike ,i just cant see by the milles to be honest there cracking bikes when all is good, but a real arse buster when problems happen .ive had a few with mine but nothing major just silly stuff ive now sold my first 2000 mille and now have a 02 mille r the matt paint one and its a great bike its had loads of owners since new and still looks tidy ive done about 1000 + miles on it since i bought it a few months ago. took it to the north west for the racing without and any bother. love it now theres something about the old shape i like thats why i must have a gen 1 in my garage .i also bought a bol`dor rep last month a 08 plate its a real minter well looked after bike but finding neuteral is a **** need to get the jet mod for the clutch then happy days .cant see me buying a jap bike for again for a long time. its nice to own these bikes and the people that own them are a good bunch of guys and very helpfull when its needed , so just stick with it mate till you gel with it you will be rewarded no gain without the pain as they say lol
 
does it , well whats wrong with mine then cause it aint getting neutral very well . very hard oh well back to the drawing board lol
 
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