love rsvr ... but head spinning!!!!

3 months in and I love my rsv but ...........small glitches now showing through, spent ages on this site enjoying jokes and reading how tos and stuff...
one thread saying who has problems with clutch and back brake? put your hand up, mine were both in the air waving around.

can't get neutral with motor running and back brake is crapppppppppppppp, i can't feel it makes any difference other than making me think why did i bother trying to use it!


warranty runs out this weekend and anyway I want to learn how to do these things myself and properly! i've ordered the jet 40 tonight, it'll take about 5 days to arrive at C&A superbikes, looking to get Motul fluid but can't decide whether to go for dot 4, dot 5.1 or RBF600, big difference in cost but insignificant if it works! not sure what diameter vinyl tube i need and where i could get it, i have a syringe already but will deny it if questioned.

996 mate is suggesting there are some aggresive race pads i could use on the back but i'm reluctant to try this until i've done the jet and bleeding.

i tried a couple of rsv demos before buying mine and they both had a back break so hoping, with care, the above work will make a complete transformation. fingers crossed.

anyone had any experience with the RBF600 or use race pads for the back?

Dot 4 for the clutch

Bleed the rear brake , you need 5mm int dia tubing. and then hang a weight off the brake pedal overnight.

try adjusting as well clutch lever so that in fact the actuating rod is in fact puishing far enough into the MCyl.

Good bike s these M8 jsut keep it on charge and all will be well.

lol...lost my clutch at the TT,the biting point was getting closer and closer to the bars,bled it out there and it was better than did as the last post and adjusted the span of the lever so its much better...back brake is a worry ..bled mine 3 times and is worse than ever...

Welcome mate. Glad you're loving your Ape. Don't wind that adjusting rod in too far - leave a bit of free play or it may lock up once it gets hot. I hardly ever use mine anyway.

welcome


theres some great posts on bleeding procedures

i stripped my rear m/c down over winter, cleaned all the black out and my brake locks superbly

pulled the slave off, again cleaned all the black out, reasemmbled and a good bleed and is fantastic

done nearly 4000 miles with both a both the fluids are nice and clean still


where abouts in cambs are ya?

The clutch fluid goes like mud very quickly - just bleed it, then it should be OK
As for the back brake, people seldom used it for road use, I would adjust it, change the fluid, clean the pads and make sure the piston can move freely, then you should get a lot more action and feel at the back.
It is also a good idea to raise the caliper as high as possible when bleeding - air bubbles tend to go up!

thanks for the advice and tips chaps.

i've printed out the how tos, got the bits and plan to do the job tomorrow night, going to use dot 4 all round and do the front brake while i'm at it. jet and gasket ring haven't arrived yet but they can go in another evening.

can't ride this weeknd due to agreeing to help with a fish pond and stuck with painty diy on sunday but plan to be at the thundersport at snetteron on either the 11th or 12th july!

plenty of dry evenings in between hopefully! cheers

After careful bleeding and following all the tips my back brake is bloody aggressive now. Makes me feel like Nicky Hayden (in the old days). All I do on a 6 monthly basis is hang a weight on the pedal.

Interesting point about the clutch fluid colour - I took out my slave cylinder and saw, as expected, the rod was black & sticky where it rubbed against the seal. I cleaned it all off and applied silicone grease on it. 1000 miles further down the road and my fluid is still nice and clean.

Good point re the fluid colour - will try that and may also renew the rubber - I would think there must be a degree of wear?
Thanks

After having the slave seal go on both the SV and the Mille I'm convinced the secret is ........................................ Silicone grease.

If the piston and bore gets some grease during assembly it will stop the seal effectively running dry over all the crap that accumulates from the chain area.

Suzuki modded their later cylinders to incorporate what amounts to a dust shield. Generous application off silicone grease between piston and boot = job done.

Next time I have cause to get in that area I'll see if a Suzuki boot would fit an Ape.