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help advice please asap

agreat1

agreat1

Joined Oct 2007
681 Posts | 0+
cumbria
HELP
Hi guys i decided to change the rear suspension link plates as recommended by quite a few people......... i've got myself in a bit of a pickle
the connecting arm rear needle bearing is quite shot - see pictures below..
a few needles have fallen out and it has damaged the inner sleeve that sits inside, it has caused a rough wear to it, enough to feel the grooves from the bearing....
how do i repair this?

do i just pick the needles out clean regrease and reseat?

do i do it in situ as i dont seem to be able to remove the exhaust centre (its stuck solid) to get the complete arm out?

do i find and replace the inner sleeve for one thats smooth?

do i replace the actual needle bearing? if so how? do i need special tools to extract and replace?

no job is ever easy with me!!!!

spoonz this is where your expertise advice should step in PLEASE
100_1189.jpg

100_1192.jpg


seriously guys thanks for all the positive advice in advance
 
When I did mine my bearings were as dry as a nuns fanny and in bad shape. I decided the take the lot out and soak them in WD40. Then I replaced the bearings in the cage one by one in a bath of lithium grease.

You only have aproblem if the bearing cage is rusty or bent. After I did this the whole assembly was really smooth running on the new greased bearings.

PS the photos are too blured to see whats going on!!
 
My advice is to replace them all if they are bad, otherwise your suspension will not function as it should, i replaced all of mine, they are just a push fit, you will need to drive the old ones out using something suitable, if you can take the dog bone out it will make things easier, replace the ones in the frame as well, i would not try putting the pins back in if they are to far gone.
 
I agree with Badger.

Out with the old in with the new and make sure they are well greased up.
 
Never completed this task, have you not got a repair manual for your RSV?

Looked at my manual and it doesn't actually say how to remove them but I can only assume as they will be mild steel casings in an alloy housing they will be pretty easy to knock out.

On the other hand getting them back in is a different matter, would recommend you don't knock them in with a hammer and socket but use a press or somekind of threaded bolt tool to draw them in evenly.

Manuals here http://www.whootis.com/index.php?page=rsvrmanuals

Just in case
 
Last edited:
cheers guys
why cant these things be simple!!!!
i need this sorted for tuesday for work
fingers crossed!!!!!!
 
You can drift them out with a screwdriver or a flat punch preferably, just don't gouge the alloy, you can knock the new ones in using the old bearings to chap against, obviously make sure they are straight before you start driving the new ones in, you could try putting the old ones back together after a good clean and regrease till you get sorted with new bearings.
 
badger i think i'm gonna have to do that...... clean and replace at a later date....
as i need the bike to commute to work.....
and as well all know no one will have the bearings to replace anyhow so i'll have to order them...
is there a tool i can buy to pull bearings out?
is it any good?????

hate hammering away at bearings or bike!!!!
 
do you know - anyone else and this would of been a straight swap out regrease asemble and bobs your uncle!!!!! but not moi - lol

but then again i ride my bike all weathers every day so i should expect it!!!!
 
Badger said:
My advice is to replace them all if they are bad, otherwise your suspension will not function as it should, i replaced all of mine, they are just a push fit, you will need to drive the old ones out using something suitable, if you can take the dog bone out it will make things easier, replace the ones in the frame as well, i would not try putting the pins back in if they are to far gone.
Click to expand...



Agree totally...replace the lot mate..ONLY way to go..don't even screw around with the old needles & cages. :thumbup
 
I replied on Af1 to your question but in case you didn't see it


yes your bearings look a bit tired. i'm with Kzmille that you should deffo check the fronts as well.

If you pull the springs off of the rear header by the shock and tap the collector down with a rubber mallet about an inch you can then get a key into there to remove the front dogbone bolt. You don't need to completely remove the collector.

when your finished you can just tap it back up again.

I can't see a seal in the pic. did you remove it ?
i would replace the bearings, seals and the damaged looking pins if it were me.

The torrington HK1812V needle bearings you can buy from a bearing shop cheaper and quicker than Aprilia.

I use an white lithium grease for them as it's water repellant and some tends to get past the seals. I've greased mine twice and they stay clean since i've used it.
 
cheers spoonz and everyone else
ive regreased and put back the old needle bearings and ordered some new for front and rear. just gonna use the bike for getting to work until fixed

one last question, should there be lateral movement in the linkage arm when all torqued up?
 
If you mean play back and forward, as in you grip the back of the swingarm and pull up and down then yes. That is the front bolt moving inside the pivot pin. For some reason Aprilia made the front bolt smaller than the hole in the pin so the whole thing floats.

i'm guessing to allow for manufacturing tolerences in the alignment of the components. for the same reason the dogbone will have side to side movement when not connected to the swingarm.
 
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