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Joined
Jul 20, 2008
Messages
97
Location
UK
Hi,

Just returned to my bike after a lay off, connected up a charged battery, turned the key, dash lit up, clutch in, thumbed start button, dash goes blank, no start. Turned the key off, red key immobiliser light blinks as usual, turn on key and dash is blank, with occasional flicker of red triangle warning light, and occasional random undefinable LCD digits marks. No headlights and no action from any controls.

Voltage drops at battery when key turned on, then returns to 12.5v + when key off again.

Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

Cheers
 
I'd be looking at the battery. Don't know how long you've had it standing, but you can have 12v indicated but not enough juice to turn over- not teaching you to suck eggs but v-twins demand a lot of starting power.
Give it a charge up, or put a known good battery (mate's bike maybe) in it and see how you get on with that.
 
Sorry, missed the bit about charged battery! Maybe the connection's not perfect somewhere.
 
I've had the battery indoors on a trickle charger, so would like to think it would be ok.

Fuses seem ok, and the connectors i've checked seem fine and not corroded. There is a maze of wiring, so not sure which ones to check first. Could it be connections in the kill switch/start button as this was the last thing i touched before things went wrong? Would that interfere with the dash?
 
Did you use a multi meter to check voltage? If so 12.5 means its shagged! With a multimeter you should be getting 13 almost 14 volts. If you are using a dedicated battery tester then 12.5 is spot on. I've forgotten the science behind this but its to do with known loads.
 
Battery can be fully charged but if you have damaged cells you wont stand a chance... As mumbo said too rule it out try a different battery or jump it off a car
 
Did you use a multi meter to check voltage? If so 12.5 means its shagged! With a multimeter you should be getting 13 almost 14 volts. If you are using a dedicated battery tester then 12.5 is spot on. I've forgotten the science behind this but its to do with known loads.

Yep used a multimeter. Thing is wouldn't the dash and lights still come on with 'shagged' battery? I've had a low battery before and the dash and lights worked fine just didn't have enough to start. Does the dash really need tip top battery to work?

What are recommendations on batteries, upgrades etc?
 
Yep used a multimeter. Thing is wouldn't the dash and lights still come on with 'shagged' battery? I've had a low battery before and the dash and lights worked fine just didn't have enough to start. Does the dash really need tip top battery to work?

What are recommendations on batteries, upgrades etc?

Had this problem with mine two weeks ago turned out to be the connection on the 30amp fuse under the seat!
May not be but worth a look mate

Also i went for a Varta 230cca i believe the part number is TTZ14bs

Cranks like the hand of a whore ;-)
 
Just replaced the battery with a Varta TTZ14s-BS and SHE BREATHES! However now i have a high tickover at 3k rpm. Any ideas?
 
is the tickover when cold or with a warmed-up engine, 65 degrees celsius or more?
 
Panic over :burnout It was cold Stress, but i've tried it again and it seems to be behaving now and idles at the usual speed.

Now to clean/grease the suspension linkage.
 

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