fork oil

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butch1276

butch1276

Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
636
Location
salisbury
hi folks
saw a post earlier on re doing thre oil in the showa's ...is this a mammoth task ??? will i shag it up or is it possible for a mechanical nobba like me to crack it :confused
 
just make sure you do it by air gap and not be olume like some numpty did on my bike and cost me the best £35 i every spent with 100% suspension to sort it out first time out on it at anglesea..
 
griffster allo me bun muncher,,,, i'll settle up with ya nx friday mate im not gonna be able to get up to you so i'llget you to post it if ok ? it'll give zoe something to do mate lol ,,,,,cuckoo wibble ,,,,,,,,
 
cheers oli ,did you get anywhere with the new shape decals yet ??? i'd measure mine up for you but dont know where to start or what you would need ...?
 
i used 5wt silkolene

if your an 'average' weight you can increase the air gap in the forks when you re-fill them so you only need 1 bottle, otherwise you will have to break into a second bottle. (thanks to Sabre for that little gem:thumbup)

i'm about 16st (big boned, and heavy leathers, honest) and my air gap is 130mm (120mm std) and i still have plenty of travel left in the forks. but i do ride like a wuss :biggrin

Kev
 
I would say it's a bit too heavy BB, 5wt Silkolene may be a better option, the forks need to be as compliant as you can get away with for road riding
 
oil changed............good job i went by air gap.....other wise there would have been way to much oil in it......will find out tomorrow lol
 
bb talk me through the oil change mate will ya ,im a total numpty mechanically lol or better still does anyone have a foto walkthrough ???
 
the 2004 full bike manual has a really good photo walk through mate.....it might be on here to download, if not AF1 aprilia site my have it to download
 
Hope this helps guys

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the only thing i would add to that is to bleed the cartridge after you have refilled with fresh oil, then set the air-gap with a cheap plastic syringe and some small bore pipe(overfill, then suck out to the required depth). then refit the spacers and spring etc and reassemble.

i pushed a bit of hose over the damper rod thread so you can fish it out the fork leg easier when you come to reassemble it (you'll find out :biggrin) also helps with the bleeding process.

Kev
 
manual says to fill with oil and THEN fit the spring COUPLING indicating that the spring is already inside when filling with oil and setting the air gap
 

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