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fitting ebay crash bobbins

A

aPeMunky

bought some of these bobbins from race supplies direct of ebay for £30 inc delivery to fit the lower engine mounts near the footpegs. they appear to be well made but contained no fitting instructions so i assumed i should torque them up to 50nm as per the normal engine bolts however after about 15-20 nm the bolts were pulled through the bobbin material.

phoned up craig at rsd who said that 15nm would be fine and resent me a new set as the original ones were now knackered.

is 15nm enough for an engine bolt?
he said he has sold thousands of the bobbins and not had any problems with them coming loose.
i know a few folk on hear have fitted them, im interested in your comments.

thanks
 
Got R&G uppers but need some lowers ,,,,,,, £70 for lowers tho £30 seems realistic ...got any pics ape or website to view them ,, cheers
 
These rear bolts aren't blind bolts that go in to the engine casing, they pass through the frame and engine casing and have nylock nuts on the back, it's the shank of the bolt that carries the load. As long as the bolt is secured and can't be seen to be moving back and forth at 15Nm then I would say OK but keep an eye on them for a while.
 
15Nm:confused
I've got R&G uppers and Motad lowers, both types have a steel sleeve in the centre of the bobbin, you can do them up to 50Nm against the steel sleeve no problem. I'd be a little concerned about only doing my engine mounts up to 15Nm against 'plastic' 'teflon' or whatever :dunno
 
that was my concern but i'm inclined to agree with amb67s comments as they reflect what craig at rsd said.
ive got some (more expensive) SES bobbins to fit for the upper mounts and they have a sleeve all the way through so can be fully torqued up where as these just have a washer on the bolt that passes through the bobbin before it gets to the sleeve.
rsd say hundreds of these have been crash tested so i trust them, just hope that i don't test them.
i'll monitor their tightness and report back if they loosen.
less than half the price of R&G bobbins
as to whether they fit the later rsv just email the seller, i'm sure they do as they make loads of different types
 
mine have been on for a few thousand miles ...i'll check tomorrow if they come loose
 
redratbike said:
mine have been on for a few thousand miles ...i'll check tomorrow if they come loose
Click to expand...

I have a set of rear lowers from this guy too and they are spot on, as long as the new nylocks are fitted then you'll have no issues. :thumbup
 
I have some of these on my bike which i would like to take off and replace along with the rusty bolts, they are slightly marked and dont match the others i have through the wheel spindles.

They came on the bike when i purchased it, trouble is i cant get to the nylocks to get the dame things off and being steel bolts they are going rusty and crappy!

Do i need to remove the exhaust down pipe to get them off?

Thanks in advance, hopefully someone will know!
 
Tricky little buggers to get to on the 98 - 03 bikes, so they sound worse on the newer models. LOL :dunno

I didn't have to remove any parts to fit them but space is limited and knuckle skin was a little thin on the ground that day. :roll
 
Thanks Alan mate, ive tried spanners/sockets but just cant get in there to take them off.

Theres no room!!

Hopefully someone with a post 04 bike can tell me?

Ill try get a few pics done :thumbup
 
took mine off but the were diff to yours they had a threaded rod going through both but they were pulling through the plastic . i put in normal bolts and i did manage to get a spanner on to the nut on the inside quite easily . if you cant get to the nut/bolt on the outside try big grips and turn the whole bobbin
 
got some of these on my bike. Did them up as tight as i could with a small wrench (no leverage) and they've stayed tight. I've spoken to carl the bloke who makes them and it sounds like he spent a lot of time with racers and track instructors getting something that worked. I have come across quite a few racers that have used his bungs. He's a diamond bloke and will help if you call him
 
i only fitted the left one but found it quite easy to get a ring spanner on the nut however if that doesn't work use a socket & wrench with an extension bar and UJ (universal joint) to hold the nut in position from the other side of the bike.
 
I fitted these a couple of weeks ago and although fidgety they went on fine with a 17mm ring spanner and allen socket. Set torque wrench to 50Nm but not sure I got any where near this but they are solid and haven't come loose. I also agree that with the nylok nut on they will be fine. Would have liked some R&G's to be snobby but just couldn't justify the extra price, these are a great bit of kit for the money although I do find my shins coming into contact with them regularly, not sure if this happens with R&G's:dunno. Only got lowers at the moment but will get some uppers soon
 
If the standard recommended torque setting for the rear engine mount bolt is 50Nm, then to have to tighten them to only 15Nm when fitting these particular crash bungs would concern me a little, especially as there's no metal collar insert to take up the load, only a hard nylon type material.
 
Had these on for about six months, tightened as per his instructions, road and track with no problems. Still feel rock solid.
 
well ive fitted them this afternoon, all went smoothly and the task completed in 30mins. didn't have a 15mm spanner to hold the 15mm nut on the original bolt so used a socket and UJ instead, although i needed a magnetic telescopic wand thingy to help position the socket on the nut as there isn't much room.

shame that i spent and hour trying to fit the SES upper fairing bobbins only to find i'd been sent the wrong ones :rant so need to send those back for a swap.

has anyone drilled out holes in their carbon fibre infills to make way for the bobbins?
if i used a circular cutter would i get a nice finish with CF just like fibreglass?

cheers
 
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