hi,brand new to site and need help.04 factory rear brake crap,back and forth to dealer to bleed system fact is the brake dont work.MOT last week fine two days later lever full down?Heard via mates its common on my bike,any suggestions?
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mark58
Guest
Had mine going on 3 years and same..Had the recall work done but still only lasts a few weeks.
I was chatting to a mechanic on the Aprilia stand at the 'Thundersprint' last weekend, and he reckons silicone racing fluid gives good results. Need to order it and about £15 a bottle, but I'm going to try that this time.
With all the Police checks going on at the moment, a cop in the know could possibly impound the bike as not being road worthy having no rear brake, so am getting concerned over the crap design.
B
BB1000
Guest
Rear brake is for stability in traffic really
The main problem is the bleeding procedure, you HAVE to remove the caliper and hold it so the bleed nipple is at the highest point
I do this and my rear brake is fine for me and has been for how long i have owned my bike, almost 3 years
There are a few mods you can do to make it even better
1, new master cylinder with 13mm bore to replace the stock 11mm one
2, open the tube on the resevoir by an extra 1mm
3, drill the master cylinder mounting holes to a bigger size so you can tilt the M/C forward to help self bleed
4, Add a heat shield if ya bike aint got one
5, Chnage the caliper to the larger piston type ( i have not done this one)
The only time i use my rear brake is in traffic
The main problem is the bleeding procedure, you HAVE to remove the caliper and hold it so the bleed nipple is at the highest point
I do this and my rear brake is fine for me and has been for how long i have owned my bike, almost 3 years
There are a few mods you can do to make it even better
1, new master cylinder with 13mm bore to replace the stock 11mm one
2, open the tube on the resevoir by an extra 1mm
3, drill the master cylinder mounting holes to a bigger size so you can tilt the M/C forward to help self bleed
4, Add a heat shield if ya bike aint got one
5, Chnage the caliper to the larger piston type ( i have not done this one)
The only time i use my rear brake is in traffic
S
spoonz
Guest
Or by some relocating rearsets and move the M/C away from the engine and into air flow.
Where it's mounted on the 04 it gets direct heat via the mounting bolts and the exhaust and it's out of the air flow.
Racing fluid slows the cooking process but not by a lot. Even the smallest amount of air in the fluid when heated expands to a big bubble.
Relocation still requires a good bleeding technique but once it's done it stays done.
I had all the mods and used Brembo racing Fluid which help but it's just alleviates the symptoms rather than cures the source imo.
Fuseboxx does rearsets for £200, money well spent or Gilles, Sato if your feeling flush.
Where it's mounted on the 04 it gets direct heat via the mounting bolts and the exhaust and it's out of the air flow.
Racing fluid slows the cooking process but not by a lot. Even the smallest amount of air in the fluid when heated expands to a big bubble.
Relocation still requires a good bleeding technique but once it's done it stays done.
I had all the mods and used Brembo racing Fluid which help but it's just alleviates the symptoms rather than cures the source imo.
Fuseboxx does rearsets for £200, money well spent or Gilles, Sato if your feeling flush.
TO ALL.... the only cure is moving the m/c and bottle as is said the heat cooks the fluid.. the aprilia is the only bike to be designed solely by a computer which does,nt know about the heat problem.. aprilia want over £240 to move it but lee at apache polishers will move it on to ur rearsets + supply parts for £40 he lives in oldham lancs nr manchester, that is the only cure & you,l never have the problem again, if any 1 wants his number just let me know.. cheers..Lee.
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I'm really interested in these mods. can you please describe these more specific and maybe upload pictures or drawings. thanks
- Joined
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hey Spoonz my fella RSV rider , I have a 2001 falco motor now on my 2000 mille and I'm about to install my rear brake i have the brackets for both Falco and Mille motor and new brake pads. what bracket should I use? I really want to relocate my rear brake if that's the only permanent solution for the suck butt rear brake problem since I use it all the time! especially when i see hot chicks around. lol
:inlove should I make a went on the fairing so air would blow on it? or how about a fan to cool it? how about an aluminum heat sink? I'm very serious about this i just don't want to bleed my rear brake a for a decade for the sake of God
irate
:inlove should I make a went on the fairing so air would blow on it? or how about a fan to cool it? how about an aluminum heat sink? I'm very serious about this i just don't want to bleed my rear brake a for a decade for the sake of God
irate
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IanG
Guest
Load of bollox :devious
I have a fully functioning rear brake,less than perfect FEEL I'll admit, but a fully functioning rear brake none the less.
I also have a fully functioning air free reliable clutch system. Both have been this way for the last 6 months and several thousand miles.
They are simple hydraulic systems,as long as the internal seals are ok and they are bled PROPERLY then they will work properly. There should be no need for paint cans hanging on levers overnight or constant bleeding every week.
To me this says either the internal seals are leaking , or there is still air in the system somewhere, don't keep curing the symtoms ....... cure the PROBLEM.
I have a fully functioning rear brake,less than perfect FEEL I'll admit, but a fully functioning rear brake none the less.
I also have a fully functioning air free reliable clutch system. Both have been this way for the last 6 months and several thousand miles.
They are simple hydraulic systems,as long as the internal seals are ok and they are bled PROPERLY then they will work properly. There should be no need for paint cans hanging on levers overnight or constant bleeding every week.
To me this says either the internal seals are leaking , or there is still air in the system somewhere, don't keep curing the symtoms ....... cure the PROBLEM.
M
Mini_Me
Guest
ROFL that sounds logical to me m8!:biggrin
Not that many peeps around who use the rear break when parked in the garage...:devious
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Mini_Me
Guest
Amen! :thumbup
S
spoonz
Guest
Calm down dear :biggrin
Remember Hydraulic fluid is hydroscopic, so it will contain and continue to absorb moisture, and what does water contain, air.
So by it's nature you will get air and moisture into the system over time and as you can't compress water and air expands with heat then with a system that gets very hot you will have an issue. The fluid degrades faster the hotter it gets also.
All that said Ian has a point in that most systems if bled properly it shouldn't be a regular thing as shown by most bikes service intervals for fluids (probably 12k/2 years ish)
The crux of it is that the standard setup lends itself very poorly to getting every bit of air out. Pretty much every dealer in every town has had Aprilia back brake issues. They are not all numpties (although some are) and probably have bled more systems than they can remember so it's more than just incompetence alone.
The same rear brake setup went on MV F4's until the 1000 cc version and MV had major issues with it and also Ducati had issues also.
The common denominator being Brembo and the way the brake is fitted to the above bikes.
M/C high, Caliper low should be the way to go so the air that naturally forms in the fluid bleeds upwards to the resevoir. The highest point on your Aprilia system is the caliper so where is the air gonna end up ?
My back brake would last 6 months or so between bleeds but it was always next to useless power wise.
I had Gilles rearsets on it for 2.5 years and never touched or bled it again. If you ever rode down the steepest hill you ever saw in the Pyrenees in pouring rain with greasy cow **** covered roads then you will know that a decent back brake was worth every penny the Gilles cost me.
Those that have trouble free back brakes then i salute you but i think it comes down to more than just technique failure for at least some of those that haven't.
At least that's my take on it.
Remember Hydraulic fluid is hydroscopic, so it will contain and continue to absorb moisture, and what does water contain, air.
So by it's nature you will get air and moisture into the system over time and as you can't compress water and air expands with heat then with a system that gets very hot you will have an issue. The fluid degrades faster the hotter it gets also.
All that said Ian has a point in that most systems if bled properly it shouldn't be a regular thing as shown by most bikes service intervals for fluids (probably 12k/2 years ish)
The crux of it is that the standard setup lends itself very poorly to getting every bit of air out. Pretty much every dealer in every town has had Aprilia back brake issues. They are not all numpties (although some are) and probably have bled more systems than they can remember so it's more than just incompetence alone.
The same rear brake setup went on MV F4's until the 1000 cc version and MV had major issues with it and also Ducati had issues also.
The common denominator being Brembo and the way the brake is fitted to the above bikes.
M/C high, Caliper low should be the way to go so the air that naturally forms in the fluid bleeds upwards to the resevoir. The highest point on your Aprilia system is the caliper so where is the air gonna end up ?
My back brake would last 6 months or so between bleeds but it was always next to useless power wise.
I had Gilles rearsets on it for 2.5 years and never touched or bled it again. If you ever rode down the steepest hill you ever saw in the Pyrenees in pouring rain with greasy cow **** covered roads then you will know that a decent back brake was worth every penny the Gilles cost me.
Those that have trouble free back brakes then i salute you but i think it comes down to more than just technique failure for at least some of those that haven't.
At least that's my take on it.
S
spoonz
Guest
hey Spoonz my fella RSV rider , I have a 2001 falco motor now on my 2000 mille and I'm about to install my rear brake i have the brackets for both Falco and Mille motor and new brake pads. what bracket should I use? I really want to relocate my rear brake if that's the only permanent solution for the suck butt rear brake problem since I use it all the time! especially when i see hot chicks around. lol
:inlove should I make a went on the fairing so air would blow on it? or how about a fan to cool it? how about an aluminum heat sink? I'm very serious about this i just don't want to bleed my rear brake a for a decade for the sake of God
The Pre 04 bikes had less of a heat issue because the M/C sat further back and up than post 04 and was less prone to heat.
I never had a problem with my 2000 rsv back brake. Worked fine for 4 years without touching it. It's the later models that need the M/C away from the motor imo.
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When I got my rsv the rear brake was fine. It was working fine with no problems until my rear wheel was taken out for a new tyre. Now I have no rear brake at all. That is the weirdest thing as the system hasn't absorbed that much moisture in an hour. The only thing that was done was the rear caliper was removed and lowered to the floor and then refitted? I'll be getting some rear sets over the winter and bleed it and see if that works.
I
IanG
Guest
Fair point :thumbup
M
Mick Oliver
Guest
I found it great when I put the rearsets on raised the caliper bled it and got a brake to work:thumbup but was not that great so bought a new rear cylinder (I think the old one got to cooked) and now have a fantastic rear brake.:thumbup
If your going for rear sets Griffs are the best :biggrin
Dont matter what you do fact is if aprillia had done homework this thread would not exist!Love my bike as a ride but jeez its a pain.Back brake crap,solenoids crap,ohlins seals crap,lost origional mileage on clocks due to battery flat so hard to sell on without explanation.Love the looks & the ride but fun runs out when you cant get the beast to start.Going back to blade so if you want an 04 factory with duff miles let me know before i change my mind.Bikes like women you love and hate em you just got to make your mind up & at mo i fallen out wi both.£3800 tidy factory wi all history!
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- Nov 25, 2008
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Anyone have a picture of mastercylinder heatshield installed on 04+ rsv? It seems a lot of us have had issues with the rear brake and there appear to be many solutions. Having had the bike in at the dealer several times now for the same brake issue I've come to realise this is an issue I must solve myself. I'm tired of wasting time on temporary bleed/ recall fixes. I'm gonna try the heatshield first then try tilting the mastercylinder a little. Failing that doesn't last long opt for some shiny new relocating rearsets as this seems to be a permanant fix. Sounds like eliminating the heat source and providing an easier bleed position is a step in the right direction!
O
OldTZracer
Guest
Wes,
There's a couple of pictures in my garage:
There's a couple of pictures in my garage:
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2008
- Messages
- 31
- Location
- Toronto
Thanks for the heat shield pic. Your bike is mint!!! I have an 07 also black/grey. I'm assuming the 2007.5 is when they changed the decals to the larger lion. Either that or they sold me an 06? After looking at the exhaust heat shield pic, this is the same one I already have fitted on mine. Do you think any of that exhaust wrap typically seen on custom harleys would help?
