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EFI light, oil pressure light, why?

baz

Joined Feb 2008
46 Posts | 0+
Lads
went into limp mode today after a fair thrash. Oil pressure warning came on, followed by efi light. Did get 300cc of oil in, but nothing too low. Resets after turning off for a while, but comes back pretty quick. Wondered if a scavenger line to the pump might be blocked, is there a filter on the end of it? But why oil and EFI, does this combination mean anything and is there any way to fault find without going to a dealer?
The oil light comes on first, with the warning triangle and then the EFI. Bike is a 2007 rsv100.
 
im gonna third that one dude!
Not uncommon!

give it a whirl mate switches cost around a tenner i reckon from memory....
 
Legs / Fusebox

You're not wrong lads. I tried to get a sensor today but local dealer couldn,t help and the next one is closed mondays. Took the sensor out and cleaned it, think it had some sludge caked inside, re-fitted and problem solved. Will get a new one anyway (or steal my brothers, he is away at sea and has left his bike at mine)

Thanks for the help
 
Hi all,

My workshop manual let me down, so I had to resort to Google, and this was the first result! Nice forum you've got here, I'll have to pop in more often. Afraid it is a first post wanting help though!

04 RSV1000R (first year of the newer shape).

I have the symptoms described above - was using bike for short commute to work as the car nosedived into a crash barrier last week. On Tuesday it fired up with a bit of a struggle (due to a long sit in the cold), warmed up fine and got me a couple of miles down the road, then the oil light came on and it went into limp home mode. Switched off immediately to check I hadn't just dumped my oil all over the road - level fine - switched back on and back to normal, fine for rest of day. Next morning switched on, fired up first time, idled til warm. Pushed it off the drive (icy) and it just died before I'd even got on. EFI and oil warning light plus the red triangle exclamation mark thingy. Same symptoms now. It won't even try to start so I'm assuming something electricky is killing it rather than a mechanical failure. Oil is fine.

Having read the above I whipped out what I assume is the oil pressure switch/sensor - the only mention of this in the workshop manual is to remove it's connector before dropping the engine; the engine manual doesn't appear to mention it at all, which seems very odd - more likely I'm missing it somewhere. Anyhow, what came out essetially looked like a drain plug with a hole in the centre of the base. Is this the entire switch/sensor? Or is there something else inside which I need to get out? I don't really get what there is to get gunked up/stuck on the switch if that is the whole thing - just replace??

It won't go into diagnostics mode with the 15s on the 'flash' button on key-on, which isn't helping - does this fault not throw an error code?

Thanks for any help, be much appreciated as I'm now transport-less!
 
Just to add - I can't find the sensor on the ApriliaParts fiches - is there a different 'official' name for it, or does anyone know the part number off the top of their head?

EDIT - I've now managed to get error codes 45 & 50 when turning on in diagnostics mode (holding down 'flash' for 15s at key-on - codes are displayed where water temp usually is) - fuel pump and starter circuits open/shorted. The bike isn't doing any of it's usual priming with power on, although I don't know if this is part of the fault or whether that it's not doing it because the fault is preventing starting.
 
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mine did the same mate , it was oil pressure sensor about 7 quid at dealers .. griff and spoonz Are your men for faults .. got to say mine never failed to start though????

mine also displayed the warning triangle on the dash as well as going into limp mode . if i turned it off then on again it was fine .. common fault on em and cheap cheap to fix .....

HAVE A LOOK AT THESE LINKS http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189910&highlight=OIL+PRESSURE+SENSOR

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=175298&highlight=OIL+PRESSURE+SENSOR
 
Codes 45 & 50 are fuel pump and starter related.

Do you have an alarm fitted, if yes are you sure it's off?

Before diving in and checking all the pumps, sensors and wires make sure your battery is fully charged and the charging circuit is fully functioning.

Have seen many an RSV just die due to the charging circuit failing.

HTH

Just to add - I can't find the sensor on the ApriliaParts fiches - is there a different 'official' name for it, or does anyone know the part number off the top of their head?

EDIT - I've now managed to get error codes 45 & 50 when turning on in diagnostics mode (holding down 'flash' for 15s at key-on - codes are displayed where water temp usually is) - fuel pump and starter circuits open/shorted. The bike isn't doing any of it's usual priming with power on, although I don't know if this is part of the fault or whether that it's not doing it because the fault is preventing starting.
 
Thanks for the links Kawasakiinit, at least I know I've got the right part. It does seem a little odd - the first day was the same as yours, warning triangle, oil light and limp-home, reset with off/on. Next day the engine just cut out with the symptoms in Baz's post - warning triangle, oil light and EFI, plus no attempt to start.

Amb67 - the bike is kept on an Optimate, which is still showing green. I had a little difficulty starting after the lay up but none since, suggesting the battery at least was okay. I'm still getting full bright headlights, voltage is showing 11.7V engine off which seems slightly low, though I'd expect to hear the fuel pump prime it and the starter relay at least click. Without being able to start it I can't simply check voltage to see if its charging, but it did start first time two minutes before it cut out.

It does have a Datatool S4 fitted, but that's still behaving as it should - arm/disarm/self-arm all give the right beeps/indicators, and it's still alarming at ignition on if I don't disarm and vice versa. Obviously that's not a guarantee it's not immobilising the bike, but I'm fairly happy to disregard that for now.

I think I'll change the fuel pressure sensor as even if it's not the cause of the starting issue, it appears that it is getting temperamental from the limp-home and warning lights prior. Failing that I'll check the battery itself rather than relying on the dash display and start tracing through the charging circuit...bit of an epic given the weather!
 
just put a multi meter on the fuel pump to see if its getting power??????? ,i would leave it connected while testing just in case it some how confuses the fault system if it where unplugged/disconnected.

just an idea mate not really a techy just trying to apply logic .. hope it works .....

maybe also spray contact cleaner on every connector you can find including under the tank as it may just be furred up green crap ???? unplug em spray and reconnect might sort it ??
 
feel the need to add that the bike always started when I had the fault though the battery being stood for a while might be an issue. Even if you have good volts stood, if there are cells down, then the volts will decay to nothing on load which might explain lack of effort to turn or prime, or check for connections and earths? Also, when i swapped the switch, ran fine for a while, but have noticed that when started when warm it sometimes takes a second or so for the pressure light to go out and the traingle stays on for a mo, think I need to change it again.
Good luck mate, the lads on here will steer you in the right direction anyway.
 
By fuel switch in my last post I clearly meant oil switch!

Yep, when the weather allows my first port of call will be to check the battery at ignition on and attempting to start, although again I've had a flat/shot battery before and it just doesn't 'feel' like that! But will be checked. I can easily check if there's power going to the fuel pump - but if it's deliberately not priming BECAUSE of some other fault there'll be no power, and if there's a problem in that circuit there'll still be no power, so I'm not sure where that gets me. Error codes 45 and 50 give 'circuit open' as an option - if the bike is deliberately not starting to protect itself because of another fault the most logical way would be to isolate the starter and fuel circuits, so that doesn't necessarily mean there's another problem! It would be the first place I was looking if it wasn't for the weird combination of lights, and that it seems strange to me for two independent circuits to fail at the same time?

Anyhow have ordered another switch for a tenner delivered, so will whack that on and see if we at least get down to just an EFI warning code rather than the oil light as well.

Just thought - does the oil light normally stay on until the engine is started and pressure rises? In which case maybe I am just working with a 'normal' error and the pressure switch is a red herring due to the previous days strange behaviour...
 
Silly question but worth checking.

I had grief with an 03 a little while ago and the pump would not prime upon ignition key being turned after faffing about with my battery to install optimate permanent leads.

Have you checked the fuses?

Mine had a 30a fuse blown.

Rgds

Mark
 
Hi all, This is my second post on here. I possibly have the same problem as you. I own a 2006 RSV1000R with 22000kms. I live in Gosford NSW.

Mate, I went for a ride on the Saturday without issue. Parked the bike in the garage overnight. Went to start the RSV on Sunday morning and received the same errors as you it seems.

EFI light on, red warning triangle, electrics work e.g. Headlights, instrument panel, 11.5 volts on the readout.

I then turned the bike on in diagnostic mode and no error code displayed, just EFI 0.

When I hit the starter button I hear the starter working, however the engine isn't cranking over.

I checked the oil level and it was just below minimum (please don't judge), so I did an oil change instead of topping up. I thought at first it may have been the oil pressure sensor, as it was below minimum. Now that it is full I would have thought the sensor would have reset itself. If that was the problem after all...

I put a new stator in OCT 2013... Actually I got the original rewound.

I'm at a loss as to where I need to go....
 
Hi Brett,

Looks like I still have an e-mail subscription to this thread as you're post just pinged me! Sadly I am now RSV- (and indeed bike-)less due to duty nobber in a car side-swiping me at speed three years ago and buggaring up various bits of me. That aside - from hazy memory the issue turned out to be a dodgy speedo pick-up - can't remember how I found it in the end, think it was a suggestion from another forum, but the cable and sensor complete were cheap so I whacked a new one on and Robert's your father's brother. No idea on the logic behind it but it was right as rain afterwards. Might be worth a shot, especially if you've got a mate with the same bike you can try one off before you buy.
 
Hi Brett,

Looks like I still have an e-mail subscription to this thread as you're post just pinged me! Sadly I am now RSV- (and indeed bike-)less due to duty nobber in a car side-swiping me at speed three years ago and buggaring up various bits of me. That aside - from hazy memory the issue turned out to be a dodgy speedo pick-up - can't remember how I found it in the end, think it was a suggestion from another forum, but the cable and sensor complete were cheap so I whacked a new one on and Robert's your father's brother. No idea on the logic behind it but it was right as rain afterwards. Might be worth a shot, especially if you've got a mate with the same bike you can try one off before you buy.

The fuel pump live feed is on the same circuit as the speed sensor. Hence if the sensor shorts it takes out the fuse that supplies the pump also.

In Bretts case I would start by charging the batt. 11.5 volts static charge is a mile away from where you need to be to start a big twin, you will wreck the sprag. That 11.5 will be down to 9 under the load from the starter and the injectors will be starved of juice, (probably why you get the efi warning). A charged batt should be 12.5 +.

Once you have a decent charge then see where you are at.
 
Druadan and Spoonz, thank you so much for your quick replies. Druadan, sorry to have heard you had a collision with a car a way back. I appreciate a reply even though you don't have an RSV at this stage.

I will try what you suggested and get back to you. Fingers crossed!

Cheers. Brett.
 
Spoonz, under load when attempting to start the RSV the dash reads 9 volts, I will let it fully charge and update again. Cheers for the advice.
 
Well Spoonz, I have an update for you mate if you've got a spare minute for me to pick your brain. I charged my battery using a trickle charger, then hooked it back to the RSVR. The dash read 12.2 volts. I attempted to the start the bike. The ECU went through the startup sequence with the usual sounds. I hit the starter, which worked. The engine turned over but it did not start. Under load the voltage dropped from 12.2 to 10.

The dash read EFI after turning the RSV over.


Any suggestions would be most welcome.

Cheers.
 
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