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Break down =(

Joined Dec 2015
28 Posts | 1+
UK
I broke down whilst touring scotland, 350 miles of tiny single track roads away from home :bawling

It was pissing down and the bike was running pretty ****, backfiring and not wanting to idle then suddenly the backfiring got worse and the bike juddered to a hault. Anyway got recovered back home and i was wondering if anyone has any ideas on what i should check for?

I have recharged the battery and the bike will run but only at 11.7 on the dash then loses power very fast, cleaned reg/rec conections and seems to have helped a little bit (running on 11.8 now) when i rev the bike it only increases to 11.9. Gonna get an altimeter to test the stator next but if anyone has any more ideas of stuff to check let me know! or a link to a forum where this is covered as i couldn't see any myself.

Cheers!
 
Sorry to hear you had such a rough run!

With those voltages the battery won't be charging a and it's clear either the rectifier has failed or the stator.

Sure someone will be along soon with hands on experience to help...

PS: Think your auto speller is doing the usual... you need a multimeter, unless you want to measure altitude, then an altimeter will do! ;)
 
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You cant always "trust" the dash reading.... but sounds very familiar to when my Stator went.
Think your on the right track to test the Stator first, then take it from there...
 
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Pretty sure you need a stator but before you jump in check the brown connector for corrosion/heat damage if all is ok check the voltage AC across all pairs of yellow wires should be about 60v ac on each pair.
 
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Pretty sure you need a stator but before you jump in check the brown connector for corrosion/heat damage if all is ok check the voltage AC across all pairs of yellow wires should be about 60v ac on each pair.


That rings a bell... readings at 4 thou revs... iirc ?
 
Yup just checked and im 99% sure its the stator now, thanks for the help lads
 
Yup just checked and im 99% sure its the stator now, thanks for the help lads

There are plenty of after market Stator options out there, you dont have to buy an Ape one.
Same with the gasket, a lot cheaper on ebay. There is plenty of good info on how to change it - 4 or 5 long bolts with heads chopped off (or threaded rod) to hold the gasket in place and ensure no trapped fingers due to the magnet effect when replacing the "cover" are a god send !

Oh... factor in an oil & Filter change as it will probably have gone black...

Hope all goes well !
 
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Try here. plent of detail a some good pics:

http://tuonozone.com/aprilia-rsv-tuono/6267-replacing-stator.html

Replacing Stator

Did mine a while back and with the help from folk on here and tuonoworld, it was at lot easier than i expected.

Best tips i was given

- Tie string to the existing cable / brown connector before you try to pull it through - (it helps fitting the new one) Also, if the cable "sticks" then it likely has a cable tie to the wiring harness - mine did and it was just a case of lifting the fuel tank into the service position to get to said tie to snip it

- a few extra long screws to help put back together - cost about 80p for 5 or 6 iirc

- pattern gasket from ebay

- Buying a stator - as its a rotax engine, that stator is used on many other things - i bought a Ricks one from here:

http://www.motorsportelectrics.co.uk/motorcycle/stators.html


Plenty of other brands tho...
:)
 
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Sorry to hear of your ruined trip Shrike. Is the stator problem a Gen1 problem, or Gen2 or both?

Is this bound to happen? If so which is the best replacement?
 
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Common problem on both generations i believe =(

Im getting my stator re wound by griff from Aprilia Performance. Not sure if its bound to happen but i have heard some people lose theres 3/4 times.. Annoying!
 
Try here. plent of detail a some good pics:

http://tuonozone.com/aprilia-rsv-tuono/6267-replacing-stator.html

Replacing Stator

Did mine a while back and with the help from folk on here and tuonoworld, it was at lot easier than i expected.

Best tips i was given

- Tie string to the existing cable / brown connector before you try to pull it through - (it helps fitting the new one) Also, if the cable "sticks" then it likely has a cable tie to the wiring harness - mine did and it was just a case of lifting the fuel tank into the service position to get to said tie to snip it

- a few extra long screws to help put back together - cost about 80p for 5 or 6 iirc

- pattern gasket from ebay

- Buying a stator - as its a rotax engine, that stator is used on many other things - i bought a Ricks one from here:

Stators - Motorcycle Motorsport Electrics World


Plenty of other brands tho...
:)

Thanks for the tip about the cable tie, was pulling on the wire for ages and no give haha!
 
Sorry to hear of your ruined trip Shrike. Is the stator problem a Gen1 problem, or Gen2 or both?

Is this bound to happen? If so which is the best replacement?

According to Griff (AP), Gen1's don't suffer half the electrical niggles Gen 2's did. I also understood the stator problem was limited to earlier generation Gen 2's... but I stand to be corrected...
 
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Aye me too mucker.

Had an 08 factory and as far as I know the stator, brown connecter probs were only an issue with the previous gen2 models.

Managed 30k miles on mine wae nae sign of failure to either.
 
Just going through this with mine, 2006 gen2 19000 on clock,

Got readings of 30v 19v & 21v on the 3 phases, bike still runs without issue, just thought I'd check it after reading this thread, got a road trip coming up soon so want it in top shape.
Good job I caught it early mi thinks :sigh
 
If those readings are at 4,000 revs then I would consider changing it before your trip.

I think the stator prob was addressed in 2008. From a certain engine number aprilia fitted a different rotor (which was the problem). This dropped the output from 500w to 380 iirc. Therefore less fried Stator !

Though i think that there are a few V4's that have had Stator issues too so looks like Ape got that one wrong too !

:biggrin
 
Half the problem is... manufacturers perfect the design for reliability... then have to redesign, or buy redesigned parts, to get cost down! Which inevitably results in the newer parts being less reliable on occasions.

One good reason not to buy a new model of any vehicle when launched... if reliability is the most important factor for a buyer. Best car I ever had for reliability was one of the last Saab 9000's. They had weedled out all the main faults and it was solid. Of course, things like door solenoids and rear hatch gas struts failed over time, but they were easily and relatively cheap to replace. Not like many modern cars. Looked at changing glow plugs on my 08 Santa Fe recently. Excellent vehicle, but you have to remove EGR valve and hang over the back of the engine to do the job. Which, on most cars, need doing every 5yrs or so. But I digress.

Allowing for the relatively few niggles on Tuono's vs Grin factor, Tuono's still beat most vehicles on the road today :thumbup
 
If those readings are at 4,000 revs then I would consider changing it before your trip.

I think the stator prob was addressed in 2008. From a certain engine number aprilia fitted a different rotor (which was the problem). This dropped the output from 500w to 380 iirc. Therefore less fried Stator !

Though i think that there are a few V4's that have had Stator issues too so looks like Ape got that one wrong too !

:biggrin

Yes @ 4000rpm, on with changing it now, just trying to source one quick enough before the trip.
 

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