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Alternator - again

R

Raptor

Joined May 2011
12 Posts | 0+
Hi, can anyone help me on the old chestnut of the fried alternator stator, my 08 Daytona 300 1000r has just cooked it's second one. The original lasted 23k then I fitted a Ricks Electrics one that I got from Motorsports Electrics in Wales, that was in September 2013 and has lasted just 10k (and it's supposed to be an upgrade!). I have just had a look on Motorsports Electrics website and the price of a stator has doubled from what I paid for my last one which was £82 including VAT, they are now a hundred and sixty odd with VAT. When it went on Sunday and I was sulking I was definitely going to get rid of the Tuono but have come to my senses and will repair it and continue to love riding it, so my question is does anyone know where I can get a good stator at a better price in the UK, also has anyone fitted a mosfet reg/rec as this is supposed to give the alternator an easier time and allow it to operate cooler, if so any recommendations?

Thanks
 
I got mine from M&P think it was about £115, its early days but I've done around 1000 miles since and its ok, changed the reg/rec at the same time (a cheap 1 off ebay) with a new gasket and fresh oil and filter set me back about £250 all in.
 
i had the same woes last year !! left stranded nr nancy in france !!!!

i fitted a new stator and mosfet rec/reg all seems well at the moment but ive only done 3/or 400 miles since . i got both items from m and p cost last summer was about £300 all in

plus oil and filter on top . good luck dude !!!
 
Thanks for your help guys, I have ordered a new stator from M&P through ebay, should have been £110 but I got it for £88 as ebay had a 20% off voucher at selected sellers and M&P was one of them - that doesn't feel right me having good luck! I haven't managed to source a mosfet reg/rec yet, the ones they had at M&P were for earlier models so if anyone else could point me in the right direction for that I'd appreciate it. I should have the stator early next week along with the oil and filter so I can get that done, I'm pretty sure there is nothing wrong with the original reg/rec, I will check the output when I have fitted the stator but I want to fit a mosfet to try to reduce the chances of frying another stator. I'll post an update when I've done it.
 
worth a mention and being reasonably good with electrickery .

the new electrosport stator I bought from m and p is a slightly smaller diameter unit ,therefore making the air gap between the stator and rotor bigger , inturn this
should reduce the magnetic field between the 2 components and reduce the output . overall making it run cooler .

which is good for the whole charging system and the oil temp .

also maybe worth doing an oil flush job on it before final fill as if your old stator was as broken up as mine there may well be bits of binding cloth in the oil !!!!!!

good luck.
 
That all seems to make sense, anything that makes it run cooler is good. I will have a look at the state of the oil when I drain it, although I am not expecting the stator to be too badly broken up as it seems to have gone very suddenly, it was running fine last year and last Sunday was my first run of the year on it and it just started missing a bit to start with then started doing a lot of popping and banging on the over run so I thought I'd best get home. The engine stopped just as I came to a halt on my drive and it wouldn't start again as the battery was completely flat, I charged it overnight and it started first time in the morning. Last time it went I realised it hadn't been running right over a few weeks then it left me stranded and I had to call the AA and the guy checked it and told me it wasn't charging and even then the stator wasn't too bad to look at. But you never know until you get the cover off, I'll let you know next week!
 
there is a guy in Denmark I believe who makes a kit , to take a feed from the oil cooler feed directly to the alternator case via the big not in the middle of the case .

im a bit sceptical of this, but lots of forum members in the states say it work a treat in places like Arizona co cal texas . etc .

heres a good tip .!! make up some dummy headless alt cover long bolts to insert in crankcase holes before fitting cover it will align the case , and you wont have to


fight with the magnetic field on refitting the cover .
 
I've read about the oil spray mod on the AF1 forum and think for our climate it is a bit over the top and it's trying to cure the symptom not the cause, which is the rotor magnet is too powerful - or so I am led to believe. The alternator on the earlier models had an output of 370w and they upped it to 500w by fitting a stronger rotor magnet, I'm not sure why they thought it was needed, it's not like a touring bike with spotlights, foglights, heated this that and the other to power - but there you go! I saw a conversion kit advertised somewhere with new rotor and stator with lower output but it was silly money, getting on for a grand I seem to remember. I wonder if a stator from a Gen 1 Tuono would fit straight on? Probably not or someone would have done it by now.
Thanks for the tip of using long studs to locate the casing that's a great idea, I have memories from last time of getting my fingers trapped and nipped trying to wrestle the thing back on.
 
The conversion kit you're thinking of is a later (08 on) stator and flywheel, Aprilia performance sell it its about £800 they say its the only garuanteed way to fix it.
Thing is I've had stators go on 3 different bikes, a gixxer 750, zx10 and my gen 2 so its not just an ape thing, or maybe I just have bad luck with magnets
 
I think it was Aprilia Performance where I saw the kit, either way I won't be going that route as I lost my job last year so everything is on a tight budget now.
Regarding the Electrosports stator that M&P supply I see from the picture on the site that it shows it with the plug already on the end of the wire, the Ricks one that I got last time came without a plug, you had to cut the plug off the wire of the original, leaving four inches or so of wire on it then solder it on to the new wire using the three ferrules supplied once it was in position. This was a bit of a ball ache but it did mean it was easier to get the wire through to the right hand side of the bike, before I pulled the old wire out I taped a length of electrical wire to it and when I had the new stator on taped the new wire to that and just pulled it back through. How did you guys who fitted the M&P stators go on getting it through with the plug on, are there any tips on that?
 
I cut the wires on mine , threaded the thru the v and soldered and sleeved each wire , then heatshrink tube over the top !!
 
Raptor..... you can dismantle the brown connector :


CB6Pbc2l.jpg



I separate the leads from the brown connector then attach a cord and pull it through the original cable route.

I bought the same style end connectors that fit in the brown connector (you could probably re-use the originals) then crimp them in same as the original set up...... tape them up then attach to the cord and pull it back through.

Saves the faff of having to solder on the bike.

IMO its allways worth having some form of connector in there...... so next time it fails ( :) ) its easy to get a meter on it to check... as you need the stator disconnected from the regulator with the bike running to test.

BTW.... if the cable is reluctant to pull through..... look for a cable tie under the tank on the stator side...... i had one holding the stator cable as it crosses over the main loom.

:bigsmile
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the tips I'll let you know next week how I get on - maybe I should just ask Sheep to come and do it for me with the amount of stators he's changed :thumbup
 
OK, here's an update of where I have got to, firstly as soon as I got the stator out of the box I thought the wires looked a bit short, but assumed all would be OK. I decided to dismantle the connector and tape the end up while I pulled it through (having pulled a wire through to the right hand side when I pulled the old stator wire out). The new wire pulled through OK but it's not long enough, it only just comes through to the coolant tank so I was right when I thought the wires looked short, I have pulled it back and checked that it wasn't snagged on anything as well. I would say that the wires need to be at least four inches longer, which leaves me wondering why would Electrosport supply an item that doesn't fit the purpose, surely I shouldn't have to be extending wires on a new item. Even if I had room to get the connector back on it wouldn't reach the other half on the reg/rec wire. Has anyone else had this problem? I am wondering if either I have got a duff one or is it the wrong item in the correct box? The serial number is ESG919 and it states on the box Aprilia 1000 Tuono. At the moment I'm just confused, if anyone could help to clarify I would be grateful. Oh, and the length of the wire is just less than a foot or 300mm.
 
my electro sport stator had a shortish lead hence why i decided to joint it to the original lead from the brown connector !!!

i think its pretty normal as these things are unfortionatley made in fookin china where they seem to skimp on cable as the norm !!! .

also i think my bike is now possibly needing a new battery as it wont seem to hold its charge for more than 2 days , it was ok when fitted last july after the stator fiasco in france .

im just hoping there is not a more complex reason ie starter relay etc .

so much for buying a motobatt !!!!! ( the one i fitted to my wes cooley rep gs 1000 lasted 6 months only )
 
I was going to contact M&P and see what they have to say about it being "not fit for purpose", I have checked again on their ebay site and it definitely says that the stator I bought is compatible with Tuono 1000R from 2006 to 2010 but having calmed down after yesterday's disappointment I have decided it is just easier to sort out what I have got. I am going to re-use the soldering ferrules I got with the last stator and extend the wires by at least four inches and as I have got the brown connector dismantled I am going to try to get the female connector parts off the wires and crimp them on, failing that I will have to get some new ones - Felix said he got some for his so they must be available to buy separately, although I can't think of anywhere locally where I might get them.

I know you said your lead was "shortish" but was it as much as four inches short? I can't get over them supplying something that is not useable as it arrives!

I suppose you have tried testing to see if you have an output from your reg/rec to the battery?
 
Raptor - I originally tried the usual automotive outlets, but the ones they had wernt quite the right size. Eventually, i bought them from a local chap ..... said they were called "LUCAR" connectors - he had a big bag of them.

Take one of your old ones with you and match em up before you buy to make sure you get the right size....

If you get stuck, let me know and i will head up there and buy a few more !

:)
 
M&p list 2 stators for the tuono, you need part no esg999, I ordered the wrong one first time, and even though I'd opened the box and the bag inside they were happy to refund and supply the right part.:thumbup
 
felix said:
Raptor - I originally tried the usual automotive outlets, but the ones they had wernt quite the right size. Eventually, i bought them from a local chap ..... said they were called "LUCAR" connectors - he had a big bag of them.

Take one of your old ones with you and match em up before you buy to make sure you get the right size....

If you get stuck, let me know and i will head up there and buy a few more !

:)
Click to expand...

Thanks for that Felix, I have a mate who is an electrician who may have some, if all else fails I will take up your kind offer. :cheers
 
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