whipping the wheels off

Now I have my spangly new tyres at home to put on I need to take me wheels off as the bike shop within easy distance wants £20 per tyre to fit as opposed to a car dealer who does bikes as well (assured correct kit for bikes) at only £6 per wheel but local guy wants wheels off. As the tyres I'm taking off will be put back on later in the year I want minimum distance trips to drop off new tyres, take bike there and then take old tyres back in car.

The guy I bought the bike from has helpfully offered to lend me 2 paddock stands so assuming I can actually get it on the stands is removing the wheels fairly easy? I have done it before on my off roader and cbr when I had them, anything to watch out for ?

Why don't you take the wheels there in the car and wait for them to be done :dunno all done in one trip :thumbup

sorry ... thats the plan now, if I went to the place that took the wheels off for me I would have to make multiple trips ... so now I have borrowed the paddock stands I can take em off myself ... but being a bit ham fisted mechanically I was wondering if there was anything to watch out for when taking the wheels off?

Make sure you take the calipers off first or you'll scratch the wheels otherwise. seen a few scratch when people thought they could get the wheel out with the calipers in place.

Remove the axle spacers before taking it for the tire fit or they'll get lost.

Just be very careful not to scratch your swingarm and tighten the wheel nuts and front fork clamps back to correct torque settings. A bit of grease on the axle bolts while it's out too :thumbup

Yeah, watch those spacers on the wheels.

Best to drop the calipers off and tie out of the way whilst doing this.

Make sure when you refit the wheels your rear wheel is in alignment with the front or your bike will handle badly.

Seem to remember a spacer in the rear wheel being a pain too.

you'll probably have to slacken/remove the front axle bolt before you get it up on the paddock stand as some designs of stand get in the way of doing this. When we were down at Cartagena my mate had the wheels off his Tuorno to change tyres then we spent about half an hour looking for the 'second' front wheel spacer, including accusing the tyre fitting guy of losing it. Then we looked closer at the front axle and realised that it slots straight into the wheel recess and there isn't a second front spacer - :doh

A303 said:

you'll probably have to slacken/remove the front axle bolt before you get it up on the paddock stand as some designs of stand get in the way of doing this. When we were down at Cartagena my mate had the wheels off his Tuorno to change tyres then we spent about half an hour looking for the 'second' front wheel spacer, including accusing the tyre fitting guy of losing it. Then we looked closer at the front axle and realised that it slots straight into the wheel recess and there isn't a second front spacer - :doh

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HaHa, i did the same thing yesterday. Thankgod im not the only Muppet to do that :stupid

Rear wheel, don't touch the adjusters, undo the two bolts which hold on the rear caliper, slide it out the way. Undo the spindle nut, support the wheel & withdraw the spindle. Drop the wheel to the ground, roll forward & slip off the chain. Roll the wheel out backwards & remove the two spacers. Leave the sprocket carrier in place for balancing.

Front wheel, unbolt the calipers & suspend so they are not hanging on the brake lines. Undo the spindle nut then undo both sets of pinch bolts. Withdraw the spindle & remove the R/H spacer.

When they fit the new tyres make sure they put the red spots or spot next to the tyre valve on the rim otherwise you end up with half a ton of lead stuck to your rims.

To refit rear wheel reverse of removal.
To refit front wheel, make sure it's the right way round fit the spacer then insert the spindle, do up the nut until the spindle starts to turn then do up the L/H pinch bolts. Do up the spindle nut to specified torque, then do up the R/H pinch bolts to specified torque. Re-fit the calipers to the correct torque then THIS IS IMPORTANT undo the L/H pinch bolts, pump the forks up & dowh several times to seat everything in the correct position then do up the L/H pinch bolts to the correct torque. I take it you have the Ohlins forks if so do not do the pinch bolts up more than the spacified torque or it will crack the clamps which costs about £350.00 to repair. Also if you don't seat the front end as I've described it will most likely blow your fork seals I know this from bitter experience.

:thumbup

And after reading that, he`l probs just pay the 40quid

considering the thread is from 2008 I'm pretty sure he's sorted - or if not thats some serious lethargy :thumbup

FFS got wrighters cramp for nothing, never looked at the date :jack

hahaha nice one guys and good spot deacs

I blame nick :jack
:roll :roll :roll :nana

Bollocks :rant

Deacs said:

considering the thread is from 2008 I'm pretty sure he's sorted - or if not thats some serious lethargy :thumbup

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Ha Ha sorry nik, i was just reading through some old threads. Lol

Still, thanks to you i now know how to fit my front wheel correctly so glad i posted mate :thumbup

Maybe you should put that in a new thread nick? like I have for the mods, but for RSV specific maintainence? then get it stickied for the peeps as reference, pretty important easily missed info that