wheel bearing removal

hilift · Nov 5, 2013

Anybody replaced their front and rear wheel bearings ? on a gen 2 .

Got my wheels on the bench , removed the cush drive housing and dust seals and circlips on both wheels , the bearings have a spacer tube internally between the inner faces of the bearings .

this tube fits up so close that i cant get a drift in there to knock em out :no .

other bikes ive had to change bearings on has had a fair bit of slop on the tube so you can get a drift in there and knock ,em out ,peice ,o piss

dont fancy paying some robber to do the job for me as ive got a deep mistrust of so called "experts "

bloke · Nov 5, 2013

get hold of a proper bearing puller and it's a doddle. never like using a drift, it's too easy for the bearing to go **** eyed and split the hub.

OlafTuono · Nov 5, 2013

If possible, warm the hub up to ease the grip on the old bearings.

If possible use an appropriate sized socket to drive the new ones in, it has to push on the outer race only.

Or A piece of threaded bar and some appropriate sized and strength washers can be used to refit the new bearings in a controlled manner

Take care to ensure they are going in straight to avoid damage to hub.

As Bloke says, a proper tool is the right way to go if possible.

Cruddles · Nov 6, 2013

I managed this by putting a couple of very short large headed screws into the holes that are either side of the spacer - the screw heads are left sticking out into the shaft. I then found a drift (think it was a 1/2 or 3/4" socket extension bar but you could just find a snug fitting socket and drift onto that) that fitted snuggly through the spacer onto the screw heads. The even pressure on both sides meant that the bearing popped out with just one or two taps with a hammer. Hope this helps!

hilift · Nov 12, 2013

having decided to bite the bullet and buy a proper blind bearing puller set ,

i bought on line what was advertized as made by bergen tools .

what infact arrived today after much waiting was an inferior peice of tat .

The collets that grip the inner bearing race ,2 of them are not cut square therefore dont grip correctly and wont pull straight .

and the slide hammer bar the threads at the end ( the bit that takes all the force ) are **** they look like they are stripped , the t bar end wont tighten.

rendering the whole thing useless .

saying that i a bit pissed off is an understatement ...

OlafTuono · Nov 12, 2013

I have been re-building an old gixer.

As you say, there are loads of people waiting to take your money for inferior parts or repairs.

There does not seem to be any pride in work anymore.

Even paying good money does not guarantee a good job.

hilift · Nov 12, 2013

[

There does not seem to be any pride in work anymore.

Even paying good money does not guarantee a good job.[/QUOTE]

with you there mate !!

bloke · Nov 12, 2013

this is what you need...Snap on /blue point blind bearing puller | eBay

have got one and it's never let me down. think it was about Â£115 new??

phatcat · Nov 12, 2013

OlafTuono said:
I have been re-building an old gixer.

As you say, there are loads of people waiting to take your money for inferior parts or repairs.

There does not seem to be any pride in work anymore.

Even paying good money does not guarantee a good job.

We will be expecting startling results from this gixer when it's done then OT.

Keith B · Nov 13, 2013

hilift said:
having decided to bite the bullet and buy a proper blind bearing puller set ,

i bought on line what was advertized as made by bergen tools .

what infact arrived today after much waiting was an inferior peice of tat .

The collets that grip the inner bearing race ,2 of them are not cut square therefore dont grip correctly and wont pull straight .

and the slide hammer bar the threads at the end ( the bit that takes all the force ) are **** they look like they are stripped , the t bar end wont tighten.

rendering the whole thing useless .

saying that i a bit pissed off is an understatement ...

Oh heck,thats not good.I once bought a chain riviting tool like that.Instead of pressing the plate,the crappy thing was just bending up.
I cant believe that Bergen could make such rubbish.I have bought quite a bit of Bergen stuff in the past and always found it to be good quality.

hilift · Nov 13, 2013

Keith B said:
Oh heck,thats not good.I once bought a chain riviting tool like that.Instead of pressing the plate,the crappy thing was just bending up.
I cant believe that Bergen could make such rubbish.I have bought quite a bit of Bergen stuff in the past and always found it to be good quality.

thing is no where on the box or tool does it state that it is actually Bergen , so its obviously a Chinese knock off .
I have other Bergen stuff and its all good . the seller has requested I send photos of the faulty parts , enabling them to take the " necessary course of action "

I just want my money back so I can go get the real mcoy like I ordered

meanwhile the bearings that want pulling out are just sat there .

hilift · Nov 24, 2013

Right then .now i am armed with a decent bearing puller i have managed to remove all 4 bearings from my wheels .

the method is mount the extractor tool in the bearing then pour a full bowl of hot water over the hub slowly, then warm area even more with a gas blow torch ( gently i might add )
and not enough to blister paint !!

then 4 or 5 good swipes with the slide hammer and out pop the *******s , all with out damage to the hub or the bearings , happy daze !!:yes

now to get the wheels to the powder coaters

Tifa · Nov 25, 2013

you can never be sure if you've damaged your bearings or not when you take them out.
an impact of any sort can cause binneling and put a slight mark on the race/ ball/roller.
best practice is to replace with new bearings and seals....could save you re-visiting it in six months time.

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