hi guys i dont have the manual that came with the bike!! its a 2001 model and my question is what would be the best setting for the front and rear shocks???? my riding style is quite fast never had my knee down but im trying!!! i replaced the front forks 2 weeks back as the ones that was on was fooked with stone chips!! so wanting to reset them ??? also at the top of the forks i noticed a few circle markings i set them on the 3rd was this right any suggestions?? cheers lads!
suspension settings
- Thread starter CLOUGHIE
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- settings suspension
Hi mate, you're best bet is to download the manual off the net. I think it may be on this site somewhere (or at least a link) ... although i did find the settings were hard to work out (they describe them badly, poor italian translation?)
I have just checked my suspension today and found everything was a mile out. the rear spring was wound tight as anything, the rear compression was wound in to max and the front forks had no preload !
Just from memory i THINK the forks should protrude 1 ring as standard and 2 for the track ... mine was on 4 !!
Much more comliant over the bumps now :thumbup
I have just checked my suspension today and found everything was a mile out. the rear spring was wound tight as anything, the rear compression was wound in to max and the front forks had no preload !
Just from memory i THINK the forks should protrude 1 ring as standard and 2 for the track ... mine was on 4 !!
Much more comliant over the bumps now :thumbup
Joined Apr 2011
115 Posts | 0+
Bristol
the owners handbook states for a bike fitted with Ohlins
Front
the top alen key adjuster turn it clockwise counting the clicks until it stops (write down the number of clicks) then turn it anti-clockwise 8 clicks
the bottom alen key adjuster again turning clockwise and counting until it stops (write the number down) then turn it anti-clockwise 12 clicks
repeat on each fork.
just for the record the standard front preload setting (the nut on the top of the fork) is clockwise until it stops then anticlockwise 8 complete turns
standard sees 3 rings on the fork tubes above the top yoke or 12mm
steering damper adjustment clockwise until it stops then anti-clockwise 5 clicks
THE REAR
the shock is adjustable in length it is adjusted using the nut and lock nut at the very bottom of the shock the standard shock length is 322mm from the centre of the top bush to the centre of the bottom bush (v difficult to measure on the bike)
the std rear preload should see a spring length of 137mm
the adjuster at the bottom of the rear shock should be turned clockwise (counting and recording) until it stops then turned anti-clockwise 14 clicks
the adjuster at the top of the shock again turned clockwise until it stops then anti clockwise 12 clicks
once you have the bike set to standard go out and ride it (carefuly) it may or may not handle very differently.
Aprilia give the same advice as i have the above settings are base settings and you should adjust your suspension through a series of road tests (thier words not mine) but only ever adjust one or two clicks at a time when fine tuning you would be surprised how much difference a click can make
Happy clicking
Front
the top alen key adjuster turn it clockwise counting the clicks until it stops (write down the number of clicks) then turn it anti-clockwise 8 clicks
the bottom alen key adjuster again turning clockwise and counting until it stops (write the number down) then turn it anti-clockwise 12 clicks
repeat on each fork.
just for the record the standard front preload setting (the nut on the top of the fork) is clockwise until it stops then anticlockwise 8 complete turns
standard sees 3 rings on the fork tubes above the top yoke or 12mm
steering damper adjustment clockwise until it stops then anti-clockwise 5 clicks
THE REAR
the shock is adjustable in length it is adjusted using the nut and lock nut at the very bottom of the shock the standard shock length is 322mm from the centre of the top bush to the centre of the bottom bush (v difficult to measure on the bike)
the std rear preload should see a spring length of 137mm
the adjuster at the bottom of the rear shock should be turned clockwise (counting and recording) until it stops then turned anti-clockwise 14 clicks
the adjuster at the top of the shock again turned clockwise until it stops then anti clockwise 12 clicks
once you have the bike set to standard go out and ride it (carefuly) it may or may not handle very differently.
Aprilia give the same advice as i have the above settings are base settings and you should adjust your suspension through a series of road tests (thier words not mine) but only ever adjust one or two clicks at a time when fine tuning you would be surprised how much difference a click can make
Happy clicking
Arryace thanks for that info ! i have the full workshop manual and for some reason it states the compression adjustment should be 1 1/2 turns out (but it clicks) which is why i was saying it was confusing ... and its all worded wierdly !
Cloughie, go off the settings arryace says as it looks like im looking at something entirely different !
Cloughie, go off the settings arryace says as it looks like im looking at something entirely different !
front compression is at the base of the forks, rear compression is left hand side by the footpeg. black dial?
front preload is a spanner adjustment at top of forks 15mm? and rear preload will be set with a big spanner at top of shock spring
front rebound is the flat screwdriver at top of forks. rear rebound is knurled ring at base of shock.
I have standard non ohlins but I'm sure they are same.
front preload is a spanner adjustment at top of forks 15mm? and rear preload will be set with a big spanner at top of shock spring
front rebound is the flat screwdriver at top of forks. rear rebound is knurled ring at base of shock.
I have standard non ohlins but I'm sure they are same.
i always thought rebound was at the base of shock/forks ??? i may be wrong but would love to know for sure
oh bolloks, don't tell me I got it wrong. Wait on a second opinion!! It's been a long day and I'm no guru, was just trying to help. not got the manual as I'm at work!! I'm pretty sure on the other twiddly bits though.
just saw a bit in mcm aand they say comp at bottom of fork and rebound at top and thats generic. checked aprilia manual and it says bottom adjuster is for compressed fork and top is for extended fork? I think I'm right but would love someone to confirm it!!
Joined Apr 2011
115 Posts | 0+
Bristol
on the ohlins fork
the allen key adjuster at the top of the fork is for adjusting compresion
the one at the bottom is for adjusting rebound damping
as said the nut at the top of the fork is for adjusting pre-load
if you google it there is indeed some differences of opinion.
but its quite simple.
go out to your bike, get your allen key and adjust both adjusters at the top of the fork all they way to the right (clockwise) (counting the clicks *** allways)
now try and push down on the front of the bike and you cannot compress the forks the suspension is very hard
go back to the adjuster and wind them both fully anti clockwise
push down on the front of the bike and the suspension is very soft and the forks compress easily.
at this point regardless of what anyone tells you or what you read you will undestand what effect that adjuster has on your suspension
on the rear
the compresion adjustment is the knob on the side of the resevoir and rebound damping adjustment is at the base of the shock
the allen key adjuster at the top of the fork is for adjusting compresion
the one at the bottom is for adjusting rebound damping
as said the nut at the top of the fork is for adjusting pre-load
if you google it there is indeed some differences of opinion.
but its quite simple.
go out to your bike, get your allen key and adjust both adjusters at the top of the fork all they way to the right (clockwise) (counting the clicks *** allways)
now try and push down on the front of the bike and you cannot compress the forks the suspension is very hard
go back to the adjuster and wind them both fully anti clockwise
push down on the front of the bike and the suspension is very soft and the forks compress easily.
at this point regardless of what anyone tells you or what you read you will undestand what effect that adjuster has on your suspension
on the rear
the compresion adjustment is the knob on the side of the resevoir and rebound damping adjustment is at the base of the shock
Last edited:
Joined Apr 2011
115 Posts | 0+
Bristol
wont piemans forks be upside down also, just not ohlins ??
pieman, i'd just do a quick test with your own, wind what u think is compression right in and as arryace says, bounce on front end and feel whether its harder to push down or not. if not note the speed the dforks return. defo dont wanna be adjusting the wrong thing thinking its something else haha
Joined May 2009
472 Posts | 0+
Slovakia
if you do not know what settings you need then you do not need to change anything.
Joined Apr 2011
115 Posts | 0+
Bristol
i don't think pieman ever stated what he had.
i believe the Showa adjusters may be the other way round and are (stepless) no clicks.
so for the Showa (black forks) i don't think they come in any other colour (maybe red but not Gold)
Standard settings.
screw adjuster at the top of the fork
turn it as far as it will go clockwise then turn it anti clockwise 1.5 turns
for the screw at the bottom of the fork
turn clockwise until it stops then anti clockwise 1.5 turns
top nut adjuster adjust to the 4 notch showing
two notches or 8mm of fork leg should be showing above the top yoke
rear showa shock
spring length should be 320mm
screw near the bottom of the shock turn clockwise until it stops then 14 clicks anti clockwise
the knob at the top turn fully clockwise then anti clockwise 35-45 clicks
as i said previously and Smithy R said.
try each setting fully clockwise and fully anti clockwise each time pushing down on which ever end of the bike you have adjusted and see what the setting physicaly does (regardless of what name you give them) this will help you understand when it comes to fine tuning from the base setting.
Joined Apr 2011
115 Posts | 0+
Bristol
Joined Dec 2007
158 Posts | 0+
Bristol, UK
Just the opposite in fact!
No wonder there are so many RSVs with handling problems!
i believe that diagram is for the showa forks mate, that is the one i was looking at and getting confused over because just off your photo, to the right, is settings which are measured in amount of turns. ie 1 and a half turns out. mine (ohlins) click and couldnt understand why they would give the settings to me in turns. Although on that diagram the little 'reservoir' thing at the bottom, im sure ive only ever seen that on the ohlins ??? confused, but ive set mine to what arryace posted earlier and it all seems tickety boo ...
I'm confused as to why it is giving me the settings in 'turns' then as opposed to clicks. mine are ohlins but dont have the reservoir bit (they were newer radial forks werent they?)
