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- Sep 26, 2013
- Messages
- 667
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- Doncaster
Paul, which 3 wire white connector ??? I assume that it is the fuel pump connector ??
I also assume that the bike starts with a big bang.....with all the "flooded" fuel now in the exhaust.
Gray
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Paul, which 3 wire white connector ??? I assume that it is the fuel pump connector ??
I also assume that the bike starts with a big bang.....with all the "flooded" fuel now in the exhaust.
Gray
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2015
- Messages
- 552
- Location
- Midlands (UK)
Good news! Fully recharged new battery, left bike best part of 3 days (hey, what do you know!), and sure thing, she fired up on second attempt. (Would have been first attempt if I'd kept thumb on starter button another second).
So... Tuono grin firmly back in place! This is so much like a love affair... and Tuonos certainly have female characteristics!!
Didn't need to crank engine with fuel pump disconnected, or open throttle fully before starting.
Now in process of getting a Mille headlight light on/off switch (direct replacement for current unit without switch), which will free up another 4amps when starting, to help ensure strongest spark when cranking engine. Then swap rear lights and front pilot light for LED (low power) units. I'm certain that will help resolve the cold winter start + flooding problem, in conjunction with throttle body tune up.
Gray,
Sorry, should have said, the white 3 wire connector to disconnect fuel pump is apparently the one under the seat. On mine there is also a 2 wire connector next to it. No others in locality.
Also found my 'brown connector', tucked up into right hand side of seat cowl, just behind battery access area. Mine was clean as a whistle! Griff (Aprilia Performance) assures me the problem with the brown connector is limited to Gen2's.
HTH's a few others too...
So... Tuono grin firmly back in place! This is so much like a love affair... and Tuonos certainly have female characteristics!!
Didn't need to crank engine with fuel pump disconnected, or open throttle fully before starting.
Now in process of getting a Mille headlight light on/off switch (direct replacement for current unit without switch), which will free up another 4amps when starting, to help ensure strongest spark when cranking engine. Then swap rear lights and front pilot light for LED (low power) units. I'm certain that will help resolve the cold winter start + flooding problem, in conjunction with throttle body tune up.
Gray,
Sorry, should have said, the white 3 wire connector to disconnect fuel pump is apparently the one under the seat. On mine there is also a 2 wire connector next to it. No others in locality.
Also found my 'brown connector', tucked up into right hand side of seat cowl, just behind battery access area. Mine was clean as a whistle! Griff (Aprilia Performance) assures me the problem with the brown connector is limited to Gen2's.
HTH's a few others too...
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2013
- Messages
- 667
- Location
- Doncaster
Gray
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2015
- Messages
- 552
- Location
- Midlands (UK)
Straight swap apparently. Some Mille units have double connector, but mine has only one, so just make sure you get correct swap unit.
From what I can see on my bike, just cut a few cable ties on existing unit, undo single connector block on left underside of speedo consul, undo screw (x2?) On existing switch block, then replace with alternative unit in reverse order.
PS: must confess, I saw the idea on a 2011 thread on this forum, but had prior looked at eBay after market supplimentary headlight switches. Starting any vehicle with headlights on is counterintuitive in my view. The voltage spike and flicking relays/bulbs only go to reduce lifespan, plus strain battery if capacity is low, especially in winter.
HTH's...
From what I can see on my bike, just cut a few cable ties on existing unit, undo single connector block on left underside of speedo consul, undo screw (x2?) On existing switch block, then replace with alternative unit in reverse order.
PS: must confess, I saw the idea on a 2011 thread on this forum, but had prior looked at eBay after market supplimentary headlight switches. Starting any vehicle with headlights on is counterintuitive in my view. The voltage spike and flicking relays/bulbs only go to reduce lifespan, plus strain battery if capacity is low, especially in winter.
HTH's...
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2015
- Messages
- 552
- Location
- Midlands (UK)
Thanks guys...
- Yes, hopefully 'sorted' now... although I suspect a throttle body tune may add a small improvement. Never got around to the 'cold start switch off + throttle fully open' starting method... but wiser for this experience.
So to summarise the lesson learned...
1) Cold start process will always be: 'cold start' switch fully open. Don't touch throttle. Hit starter and don't let up until it fires...
2) If that fails. Cold start switch off. Throttle fully open. Hit starter until it fires.
3) If after several 3 - 4 second attempts no joy... I will try the fuel pump disconnect, (3 wire white connector under seat), throttle fully open, cold start switch off, crank engine to clear flooded engine. Then back to step 2)... albeit probably wisest to jump start to ensure max power and strong spark at this point.
On the Headlamp Switch upgrade front...
- Just installed a left hand switch unit from a Mille (1999 - 2002, single connector) with headlight on/off switch. Took about 1hr all told, but then I am a bit thorough (read 'fussy'). On scale of 1 to 10 (10 being hardest), the job was about 2. Fiddliest bit was unplugging (and less so reconnecting) connector block below speedo without removing fairing, but a bit of patience and 2 small screwdrivers to press in the white female connector retaining lugs (located through the opposing slots [x2] in the black male connector shroud), and hey presto. If fairing removed it should be a total doddle. Just check where cable ties are located first, to ensure effective replacement and stop cables fowling the forks/headstock, etc.
- The Mille unit has a 'off'/'pilot-light/headlight' 3 position setting. However, the pilot-light (5W) isn't connected to the switch connector block as expected, so stays on... which isn't a problem. I will upgrade it to a high intensity, 2W (approx.), LED in due course...
So.. all told... with higher capacity battery and extra 4 Amps cranking current available due to switch mod, everything should be plain sailing now on...!
(Famous last words!)
... and all ready for the best of Spring...! :thumbup
- Yes, hopefully 'sorted' now... although I suspect a throttle body tune may add a small improvement. Never got around to the 'cold start switch off + throttle fully open' starting method... but wiser for this experience.
So to summarise the lesson learned...
1) Cold start process will always be: 'cold start' switch fully open. Don't touch throttle. Hit starter and don't let up until it fires...
2) If that fails. Cold start switch off. Throttle fully open. Hit starter until it fires.
3) If after several 3 - 4 second attempts no joy... I will try the fuel pump disconnect, (3 wire white connector under seat), throttle fully open, cold start switch off, crank engine to clear flooded engine. Then back to step 2)... albeit probably wisest to jump start to ensure max power and strong spark at this point.
On the Headlamp Switch upgrade front...
- Just installed a left hand switch unit from a Mille (1999 - 2002, single connector) with headlight on/off switch. Took about 1hr all told, but then I am a bit thorough (read 'fussy'). On scale of 1 to 10 (10 being hardest), the job was about 2. Fiddliest bit was unplugging (and less so reconnecting) connector block below speedo without removing fairing, but a bit of patience and 2 small screwdrivers to press in the white female connector retaining lugs (located through the opposing slots [x2] in the black male connector shroud), and hey presto. If fairing removed it should be a total doddle. Just check where cable ties are located first, to ensure effective replacement and stop cables fowling the forks/headstock, etc.
- The Mille unit has a 'off'/'pilot-light/headlight' 3 position setting. However, the pilot-light (5W) isn't connected to the switch connector block as expected, so stays on... which isn't a problem. I will upgrade it to a high intensity, 2W (approx.), LED in due course...
So.. all told... with higher capacity battery and extra 4 Amps cranking current available due to switch mod, everything should be plain sailing now on...!
(Famous last words!)
... and all ready for the best of Spring...! :thumbup
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2015
- Messages
- 552
- Location
- Midlands (UK)
£25. The seller was a breaker on eBay, advertising it at £30 with 'Best Offer' option. He rejected my first of £20! Unit had a black indicator button.
He had an identical unit on at same price, and a sperate seller had one with a grey indicator button, advertised at £25 fixed price but photo looks like there is some black insulation tape wrapped around cable sheath near switch unit end, so be careful. All are still available. Just search for Aprilia Mille left hand switch unit, and check year and single block connector. ( I assume the double block connector is for a Gen2).
HTH's.
He had an identical unit on at same price, and a sperate seller had one with a grey indicator button, advertised at £25 fixed price but photo looks like there is some black insulation tape wrapped around cable sheath near switch unit end, so be careful. All are still available. Just search for Aprilia Mille left hand switch unit, and check year and single block connector. ( I assume the double block connector is for a Gen2).
HTH's.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2013
- Messages
- 667
- Location
- Doncaster
