sprag clutch

how difficult is it to replace ?
do i need any special tools ?

Give the search box a shot, theres been some discussions regarding the sprag. Its not a bad job but you do need a flywheel puller, tools, an on line guide (youll find it by searching) to make life easier but most important a little bit of mechanical knowledge.

Oh and contact Tash who can supply the bits you require.

first contact tash he supplied me with the new sprag and gasket. get to you aprilia dealer and order the flywheel puller. do searchs on here and get all the tools together and work away and in a few hours its all done and your bike will start properly again! the searches on here and (dare i say it other rsv forums) are in valuable i found one with step by step photos which really helped alot. the haynes manuel is ok but doesnt really have a good guide to change the sprag.

hope it goes ok
i do have a flywheel puller if your stuck for one! as long as you post it back to me.

tris

Hi guys...
I just did my sprag clutch last week. Once I removed the stator there is a hole in the centre with a thread in it. I used a 22mm x 1.5mm thread bolt to pull the flywheel off, just screwed it into the centre to press down on the crank and it came off, no problem. I managed to get a sprag from Ducati agents locally, it's called a "Free Wheel" and the part no. is 70140011A. My bike is a 2002/3 RSV Mille. Good luck, but I'm sure you'll do ok.

Regards
glen

Hi again,

I did price the part from Aprilia, BMW and Ducati, with Duc being the cheapest, (ZAR 2100) which is about $ 300 or about 190 pounds. BMW were slightly more expensive with Aprilia coming in at 3 times the price.

cheers

Hi,
If money is a bit tight, you might be able to just replace the spring on the sprag or shorten it. I replaced a spring on a sprag about 2 years ago and it is still working fine. I got the spring from a lip seal at the local engineering shop. To shorten the existing spring, find the join and twist and it will come apart - cut a small amount off the large end and re-join by twisting spring. I used a 22x1.5mm bolt as the fly wheel puller but I had to use heat to remove fly wheel as loctite is used. From memory you will need a 8mmx60 bolt to lock the crank located on the lower right hand side of the motor. You should be able to find some photos and information on the forum how to do this job. Its not that hard just take your time.
Cheers, Marksie

hiya everyone , sorry my problem is slightly different but does anyone know where i can get a starter motor.
i am new to this forum and am finding it extremely usefull.
i have a rsv mille r 2003, and would really appreciate some help im getting desperate now !!!
many thanks

hagizmuncher (max)

Hi m8 theres lots of bike breakers about a search on ebay will help but if no starter motors come up in the search phone some of them they might still have the bits but just not put it on ebay ,good luck m8....

waterboy said:

Hi again,

I did price the part from Aprilia, BMW and Ducati, with Duc being the cheapest, (ZAR 2100) which is about $ 300 or about 190 pounds. BMW were slightly more expensive with Aprilia coming in at 3 times the price.

cheers

Click to expand...

i replaced mine with a ktm part and it was £45 so alot cheaper than the ducati

Tristan, do you know what ktm part number that was?

cowelly said:

Tristan, do you know what ktm part number that was?

Click to expand...

cowelly, the pn is 58440026000 i bought it from tash on this forum his number for his business (extreme performance solutions) is 01325778358 he was brilliant and got it to withing 2 days brilliant knowledgeable guy well worth a call. tris

Just changed my sprag over the weekend. Followed the advice and got the KTM part from Tash with the gasket and the oil and filter. Only £105 for all of that postage included - excellent. My son works for an engineering firm and they made me the 22mm puller bolt from hardened steel. It worked a treat. I used an 8mm fencing type bolt to lock the crank and it worked fine as well. Found the image showing which bolt to remove so that I could lock the crank at af1racing.com/store/scripts/prodview.asp?idproduct=3168
Took me all day to do the job but I went at it steady and I rubbed down and re-painted the oil tank because it was quite rusty. Only took about five minutes with a blow torch to heat the flywheel centre and it didn't take too much force to get it off. I used a plumbing heat mat to shield the wires nearby. I didn't remove the alternator stator - just tied the casing up with string. Found a few minor snags that I haven't seen mentioned on the forums and i've got a load of photos but i'm new here and haven't figured out how to put em on the site yet.
The bike starts really well now just on the choke/fast idle. It was a right pig to start before I did this job and made a fair old racket but the sprag housing only had very light scratches so i've re-fitted it. No more using the throttle to get her going. Well happy again.Thanks a lot for the advice.

good job well done!

Not sure if it's in the right place but i've just put an album of photos on my profile if it's of use for anybody else doing their sprag. Rode the bike 50 miles today with no leaks or snags- still can't believe how easy it is to start now!!

Hey Percy

Saw the photos, they never hurt, always good to have more

I noticed you had were around the inside of the housing, did you replace that also, or just the freewheel??

I didn't change the housing. The wear seemed fairly light so i'm hoping it'll last several more years.