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rsv strip down(at last)

Beanie said:
Yeah, i have it hear, i had the inforad and alarm and all my personal bits removed from the bike by the insurance company engineer before i signed her over and returned to me, as they were'nt covered.

I have found out i can use it on my new bike when i get it, so have no intention to sell it, cheers
Click to expand...

All good, I just didn't want someone else to have got hold of it in the process. So the alarm has been removed by the insurance? I haven't had the chance to inspect the loom, but hope that they've done a decent job, even thought I'll have to spend few hour with a voltmeter tracing wires around!
 
Pedro, the alarm was only connected to the terminals on the battery, i had already removed the original alarm that was fitted to the bike, it was awful, it had such a drain on the battery it was unbelievable, and was in the process of fitting another alarm, hence the rear bulb wiring i already spoke to evan about.

The only other mod to the loom was a extra feed aded up by the ignition switch which was for the inforad gps system, and the added feed for the additional headlight front indicators i added.

Other than that, the loom should be unmolested.
 
Beanie said:
Pedro, the alarm was only connected to the terminals on the battery, i had already removed the original alarm that was fitted to the bike, it was awful, it had such a drain on the battery it was unbelievable, and was in the process of fitting another alarm, hence the rear bulb wiring i already spoke to evan about.

The only other mod to the loom was a extra feed aded up by the ignition switch which was for the inforad gps system, and the added feed for the additional headlight front indicators i added.

Other than that, the loom should be unmolested.
Click to expand...

Good to hear that, I can do electrical stuff but I DO NOT enjoy it at all!So it was a motion sensor type alarm, not a immobilizer that cuts out power? Ev mentioned the LEDs, we'll send you some pics over and you can tell us what you need, as it should be easier that way! Cheers
 
Whilst i remember, on the rear sprocket, look for one of the studs that has a washer under it, it needs removing and the nut and stud will need replacing, as the thread have been stripped by some **** overtightning the nuts and stripping the threads, i only discovered it whilst cleaning the bike on saturday before the accident.

Also, inside the clocks, you will need to replace the tiny little service light bulb, cos the low fuel one blew so i swapped them over till i could get down to the dealers to get a new one.


If i think of anything else, i'll put it up here for you, gotta keep you guys busy, lol
 
thanks for all the info Beanie! :thumbup I'll be down the garage tomorrow and have a good look around it for the first time after strip down.
 
rsv rebuild

OK, been away for a while from here and not been working on the bike as much as I would have liked BUT.. she's coming together nicely!
this are some pics to get you guys updated!
100_1531.jpg

100_1530.jpg

Panels and tank are all ready, just waiting to be put on, all in nice shiny black..
Now for a couple of questions:
When I connect to the battery(car battery, not the bikes' own) and turn it on it only swipes do 5K, is this normal or should do a full swipe?
She won't start, tried off the button, nothing, a click can be heard from the ECU, any suggestions?
When I try to shorten the solenoid the engine cranks over, but again no luck in starting and I don't want to be too heavy handed as I've heard terrible tales of sprag clutches going..
The clock reads DIAG 1 but a quick search told me is to do with the TPS and idle screw, so hopefully that's nothing to be worried about.
Thanks for any pointers, much appreciated!
 
pedro said:
OK, been away for a while from here and not been working on the bike as much as I would have liked BUT.. she's coming together nicely!
this are some pics to get you guys updated!
100_1531.jpg

100_1530.jpg

Panels and tank are all ready, just waiting to be put on, all in nice shiny black..
Now for a couple of questions:
When I connect to the battery(car battery, not the bikes' own) and turn it on it only swipes do 5K, is this normal or should do a full swipe?
Yep, 5k reading is default when you disconnect the battery.
She won't start, tried off the button, nothing, a click can be heard from the ECU, any suggestions? Solenoid probably.
When I try to shorten the solenoid the engine cranks over, but again no luck in starting and I don't want to be too heavy handed as I've heard terrible tales of sprag clutches going..
The clock reads DIAG 1 but a quick search told me is to do with the TPS and idle screw, so hopefully that's nothing to be worried about.
Thanks for any pointers, much appreciated!
Click to expand...
Do you have fresh gasoline? If it has been sitting there for some time it may go off.
 
Get a good quality YTX14 battery forget the car battery, I bet it is connected with jumper leads or similar.
You will be loosing loads of power thru the leads.
Once you get it spinning of the button if it doesn't start just make sure everthing connected back to where it was before.

Why did the head of frame have to be lopped off?
Insurance total loss?
It looked reasonable in the pics would have been a good track day donor frame
 
RSVNick said:
Get a good quality YTX14 battery forget the car battery, I bet it is connected with jumper leads or similar.
You will be loosing loads of power thru the leads.
Once you get it spinning of the button if it doesn't start just make sure everthing connected back to where it was before.

Why did the head of frame have to be lopped off?
Insurance total loss?
It looked reasonable in the pics would have been a good track day donor frame
Click to expand...

Good call, may try with the XT16 off the Ducati.. frame was bent where crush bungs had been fitted, so if they may save your paintwork, they trash your mounting point, and once the frame has a dent in it, is a breaker. Insurance companies now want ALL frames to be chopped at the headstock(and the contractors to give proof of that), days of the track days cheap frame are slowly going..
 
tip over switch is between the battery and ecu, lift it out give it a shake and put it back in
 
pedro said:
Now for a couple of questions:
When I connect to the battery(car battery, not the bikes' own) and turn it on it only swipes do 5K, is this normal or should do a full swipe?
Click to expand...

I think this relates to the rev indicator; once the bike is running if you rev to 5k a light on the dash should start flashing. You can increase the indicator limit but I cant remember which button you hold down.
 
Button C is the badboy to press. Press button C release and press again within 3 seconds and the needle will increase 1000 rpm everytime you press, allowing you to set your redline. hope this helps.
Martyn
Ps good luck with the rebuild
 
monty38 said:
Button C is the badboy to press. Press button C release and press again within 3 seconds and the needle will increase 1000 rpm everytime you press, allowing you to set your redline. hope this helps.
Martyn
Ps good luck with the rebuild
Click to expand...

Remember, it is a shift light, not a limiter - it will rev past the 5k if still so set. Most seem to opt for anywhere between 9500-10500
 
danish ep said:
Remember, it is a shift light, not a limiter - it will rev past the 5k if still so set. Most seem to opt for anywhere between 9500-10500
Click to expand...

I don't think I explained myself too well guys! The clock only does the start-up swipe up to 5K, and I doubt Beanie(original owner of the bike/engine) set it up only to 5K
 
But is 5k the default that the clocks may have reverted back too if the battery had been disconnected for a while. :dunno
 

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