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RSV Noob with a question about MUST-DO mods

Joined Feb 2011
15 Posts | 0+
Hello, I just bought a still in the crate 2007 RSV and the dealer is holding the bike until April as I won't have time to ride until then and it pushes the warranty start date until then so I am happy but sad my bike isn't in the garage yet. It does however give me time to plan and learn about the bikes niggles and how to cure them. I wonder if members can post the must-do modifications for me. I looked at the Common Mods page but didn't see a list like the one I am seeking.

The dealer will put whatever battery I want in it at no extra charge so is there one I should ask for? Brown connectors still an issue on 2007 bikes? Back brake essential fix or just an annoyance? Etc etc. Thanks guys!
 
15 front sprocket [a must] and maybe a 42-44 rear sprocket

Mod the seat bolts to pins so the seat pulls off

Buy a optimate or similar and the above mod becomes useful

Shorty levers, a must for more feel on the clutch, I always felt i was riding the clutch with the stock lever

Noisy cans and get dealer to set ecu to map2

R&g crash bungs [2 sets]

Gear indicator, for me anyway I always get caught in too high a gear but not anymore

I believe the brown connector is still a problem, but should not need doing right away hopefully

The back brake should work from new or take it back, its bleeding it thats dodgy, you need to take it off and turn it upside down, and shim the pads outward while doing this

I like the Motobatt batteries they are more powerful than the standard one with 14AH and 200cca so ask the dealer to fit one as big as those numbers
 
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15 front sprocket [a must] and maybe a 42-44 rear sprocket

Mod the seat bolts to pins so the seat pulls off

Buy a optimate or similar and the above mod becomes useful

Shorty levers, a must for more feel on the clutch, I always felt i was riding the clutch with the stock lever

Noisy cans and get dealer to set ecu to map2

R&g crash bungs [2 sets]

Gear indicator, for me anyway I always get caught in too high a gear but not anymore

I believe the brown connector is still a problem, but should not need doing right away hopefully

The back brake should work from new or take it back, its bleeding it thats dodgy, you need to take it off and turn it upside down, and shim the pads outward while doing this

I like the Motobatt batteries they are more powerful than the standard one with 14AH and 200cca so ask the dealer to fit one as big as those numbers

Excellent! Just what I am looking for. I did have a 16 tooth sprocket recommended for the front. I am not even sure what the stock ratios are but I imagine we are trying to shorten it up for real street riding. Anyone else have any tips on things to watch out for or solve before they become a problem? If I buy a bigger better battery do I still need to hook it up on the optimate all the time?
 
The stock gearing is 16/40 on my factory so I think its the same on yours

The older rsv.s were 17 i think

I did not need to in the summer when it was getting used at least twice a week but come the winter it needed tendering although that was an old battery

A low battery can be the undoing of the sprag clutch so better safe than sorry
 
I always route the optimiser leads out under the pillion seat. easy. except i now don't have a pillion seat, or a riders seat for that matter!! damn

I would recommend getting as many bolts and fairing fasteners out as possible and getting busy with the copperslip. Especially rear mudguard.

Also worth making sure the rear shock mounts pivots and bearings are nice and greasy, as this tends to be a weak point.
 
Hi Bud, the side stands can be a pain 'quite literally' I have an 02 and have dropped it because of the side stand,they can be swapped from other makes of bike, not sure which but someone on here could tell you(and me:devious) which ones will fit and make life easier and cheaper on the pocket
 
Do yourself a favor: The brown AND white (under tail fairing) connectors should be looked at now, before they overheat and cause other problems. If you open them up and give the female terminals a slight crimp for more "mechanical drag", I don't think you will have any further problem with them.

Loose connections and high amps equal heat.

My bike still has all its connectors at 18,000 miles. No stator problems, either. All you need to disassemble the brown and white connectors is a very small flat-tipped screwdriver to depress the terminal keepers and the terminals will slide out easily.

I also did the 15-40 gearing, much more fun! Mine is also a 2007.
 
Do yourself a favor: The brown AND white (under tail fairing) connectors should be looked at now, before they overheat and cause other problems. If you open them up and give the female terminals a slight crimp for more "mechanical drag", I don't think you will have any further problem with them.

Loose connections and high amps equal heat.

My bike still has all its connectors at 18,000 miles. No stator problems, either. All you need to disassemble the brown and white connectors is a very small flat-tipped screwdriver to depress the terminal keepers and the terminals will slide out easily.

I also did the 15-40 gearing, much more fun! Mine is also a 2007.

*** I am looking into doing the Brown and White connectors shortly. I have ordered a 15/42 set-up and hope it isn't too much. You noticed a big difference just dropping to a 15 up front, eh? I should have save my self the money on the rear sprocket. I have some Leo Vince exhaust coming and will have the dealer switch me to Map 2 right away. I loved the stock demo I rode so these few changes should make the RSV even better.

Thx!
 
15-42 is a really good thing. I understand you don't even have to get a longer chain, the stock length fits. I haven't done it simply because I commute on this bike and enjoy the fuel economy. If I went to 15-42, My machine would be........less economical! The thing I noticed first with a 15 was the ease of low speed maneuvers, not riding the clutch so much. Of course, better acceleration, too. Warning: 15-42 makes the front end light!
 
Hey fellow Canuck!
You lucky dog - the Island has some excellant roads. You are going to love running the RSVr up to Gold River...

Try just dropping the front sprocket 1 tooth first. This thing is a tractor but if you find the gearing still seems tall, then change the rear as well. Don't worry about the sidestand breaking - different part for North America. (But that doesn't mean you can abuse it. Buy a rear stand & avoid tragedy.)

I took the brown connectors apart & soldered the wires to the crimp connectors. Buy a tube of dielectric grease & coat all the connectors. Our headlights are always-on so there is a little less surplus electricity for the regulator to dissipate. (Also - check the forum for MOFSET regulator threads.) I've stuck with the stock Yuasa battery but make sure it is always topped up.

Have your dealer dyno the bike with map2 & the new pipes to make sure you are fuelling OK. A K&N filter is a nice mod too. I never use the back brake but your's should have a heat shield behind it which helps a lot. I'm wrapping my headers (once my garage warms up to the point I can actually work in it) to help reduce the heat affecting the rear master cylinder & shock.

The most important thing is to just get out & ride it!
 
There was a recall in the US to replace a hose inside the fuel tank which deteriorates from methanol added to gasoline. Also - keep an eye on the rad hose "clic" clamps. I've started replacing mine with stainless gear clamps.
 
I saw stainless steel clamp sets available for our bikes from AF1 and I wondered what that was about. It seems certain years and non-North American bikes suffered some different maladies from our bikes. I read that the 2007 rear brake should be fine and that the North American side stands are fine. It still leaves lots to watch out for so thanks for all the responses and keep them coming!
 
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