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Yes to increase rear ride out you need to increase the amounts of thread you can see on the shock. Depending on the linkage ratio incresing the amount of thread may increase the rear of the bike more than you think. Measure the height of the tailpiece then adjust thread to relate to how to much you want to raise rear by. You can drop the yokes down the forks which will quicken steering aswell. It is not the same as raising the rear though. I'm thinking of raising my rear end so let me know how it feels. Mine feels low at rear but still steers quite quick.
Just looking at my service book ( geek I know ) the ride hieght difference from road to track is only three milimeters. I'd take it out by this amount and see how it feels. Front forks should have 3 rings showing for road. Four for track.
You will loose some stability but factory as a damper so you should be ok. Going to put a damper on mine I think. Doesn't really need one but with the mess of our roads it's prob for the best. You could change to a 190/55 rear when you get a new tyre. If your not running one already.
You will loose some stability but factory as a damper so you should be ok. Going to put a damper on mine I think. Doesn't really need one but with the mess of our roads it's prob for the best. You could change to a 190/55 rear when you get a new tyre. If your not running one already.
If you are happy the way the bike steers just now you will need to raise both front and rear to keep the balance, raising the rear on it's own will make the bike turn in/steer quicker, the trade off being stability if you go too far.
Increasing the preload back and front will also increase ride height, for those wishing to quicken the steering you are better raising the rear than pulling the forks up.
You achieve better grip levels by raising the rear due to the swingarm angle/position, plus you don't compromise on ground clearance by lowering the front.
The rear shock has 10mm of thread you can use to get more rear height.
My advice is raise the rear using the shock length to give you the ride height you are trying to achieve, then start raising the front in stages to get back to the speed of steering you are happy with, doing it this way will keep the balance which is so important.
Increasing the preload back and front will also increase ride height, for those wishing to quicken the steering you are better raising the rear than pulling the forks up.
You achieve better grip levels by raising the rear due to the swingarm angle/position, plus you don't compromise on ground clearance by lowering the front.
The rear shock has 10mm of thread you can use to get more rear height.
My advice is raise the rear using the shock length to give you the ride height you are trying to achieve, then start raising the front in stages to get back to the speed of steering you are happy with, doing it this way will keep the balance which is so important.
Correct, if you raise the rear too far on it's own you are transferring too much weight to the front, i made it clear the front/back ride height has to be balanced to keep the traction and stability. If the bike is handling to his needs the way it is then he needs to raise the whole bike the same amount.
If you go too far one way or the other the bike will not work in unison:thumbup
If you have just set it to 2mm showing it was too low to start, the bike should have had 3 to 4mm of thread as standard.
My Factory i run at 5mm and the forks at 3 rings (sections|) showing.
Your bike if the forks were at three rings and the rear shock at it's lowest would steer very slow, try the 2mm and go more if you want quicker turn in:thumbup
My Factory i run at 5mm and the forks at 3 rings (sections|) showing.
Your bike if the forks were at three rings and the rear shock at it's lowest would steer very slow, try the 2mm and go more if you want quicker turn in:thumbup
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2011
- Messages
- 10
Guys Guys Guys,
I know its an old post but.....
Ride height is not adjusted by changing the preload. When you adj the preload you adj the spring squash. Simple as thats it. It does not adj the height of the bike. It adjusts the amount you compress the spring.
Ride height is adj by the RIDE HEIGHT ADJUSTER, this lengthens or shortens the shock, thus the STATIC height of the bike.
Once the pre load is adj you then do the damping, which as it says dampings the shock, reducing the bounce of the spring. making it more rideable.
Get off of specific bike forums for suspension advice. You have too many know it alls who don't.
I could be one of them.
I know its an old post but.....
Ride height is not adjusted by changing the preload. When you adj the preload you adj the spring squash. Simple as thats it. It does not adj the height of the bike. It adjusts the amount you compress the spring.
Ride height is adj by the RIDE HEIGHT ADJUSTER, this lengthens or shortens the shock, thus the STATIC height of the bike.
Once the pre load is adj you then do the damping, which as it says dampings the shock, reducing the bounce of the spring. making it more rideable.
Get off of specific bike forums for suspension advice. You have too many know it alls who don't.
I could be one of them.
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2009
- Messages
- 1,523
- Location
- Co Durham
Static sag and ride height are two different things. Spring pre load adjusts static sag, which is how much the suspension compresses when the rider sits on it. Ride height is adjusted with the ride height adjuster if your shock has one, or can be adjusted with shims or by changing the suspension linkage on others.
adjusting the shock length is fine as long as you keep it sensible .
2mm more length at the shock would mean 10 mm in height at the seat or there a bouts.
on lots of bikes you fit shims etc to achieve this and usually work in 2mm stages but a threaded adjuster is so much easier and all quality shocks have this .
the japs always use the cheapest shock supply avaliable so shims or dog bones are needed and why you always need an ohlins nitron WP penske etc to get the bike to handle (go figure japs )
Sorry guys but ride height is affected by preload/sag, it is all part of changing the geometry, changing preload will change: the height of the center of mass, steering angle, rake, trail, swingarm angle, rear wheel trail, anti-squat and wheelbase.
Decrease the rear preload and the bike will steer like a chopper, increase rear preload and the bike will start to oversteer if you increase too much, decrease front preload and the bike will steer quicker.increase it and it will steer slower.
Don't believe me then read this, spesh section on sag
http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/rideheight.htm
and this from Ohlins, read the section on Adjustment
http://www.ohlins.com/Checkpoint-Ohlins/Setting-Up-Your-Bike/Underrubrik_1/
and again from Ohlins, read the second note from the bottom
http://www.ohlins.eu/en/products/technics/Setting-up-your-Bike-part-2-spring-preload--3554/
Decrease the rear preload and the bike will steer like a chopper, increase rear preload and the bike will start to oversteer if you increase too much, decrease front preload and the bike will steer quicker.increase it and it will steer slower.
Don't believe me then read this, spesh section on sag
http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/rideheight.htm
and this from Ohlins, read the section on Adjustment
http://www.ohlins.com/Checkpoint-Ohlins/Setting-Up-Your-Bike/Underrubrik_1/
and again from Ohlins, read the second note from the bottom
http://www.ohlins.eu/en/products/technics/Setting-up-your-Bike-part-2-spring-preload--3554/
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2mm is quite low, i have 5mm on my factory with 3 full sections showing on the forks, as i have said previously you can quicken the steering by decreasing the preload on the forks and in creasing preload on the shock or a combinataion of both.
If i was you i would aim for 28mm static sag on the forks and 13mm static on the rear, forks at 3 sections showing and rear shock showing 4mm of thread below the locknut.
If you are under 15 stone with all your gear on the standard springs will work, beyond that you may need to look at new springs to suit your weight.
:biggrin
