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Rear breaks

Joined May 2011
17 Posts | 0+
Somerset
Ok this is something i have never had with any of my previous bikes. My T has just done over 3000miles and suddlenly i lost back break, all spungy like a wet munks robe, useless.

Any ideas?

:dunno
 
the question should be is how did you get 3000 mile's before it was fecked. I thought that was how they came from the factory. It happens tae awe the Tuono's asbo, new and old un's bad design. there's lots of threads on the forum about this
 
Hey slayer
no she worked fine and was sharp and responsive till about 500miles back then slowly it started. Like a nagging wife who cant understand why we never listen to them dripping about things that does not concern us, like " does this look nice on me" who cares its coming off any how later on
 
dont think my brake has ever worked that well. only use it on hills when stopped etc. the front is very good though
 
I have tried back bleeding, normal bleeding both using my syringe method, turning, bleeding with the caliper upside down, it works when you spin the the rear wheel on a paddock stand and push down the brake pedal by hand, then when you go out on it feck all. PITA. Never had any issues bleeding clutches, brakes on any other bike.
 
Looks like i will be scratching my head over this for a while then. Unless any one knows about a tread on here that tells exactly what one can do to iradicate the gremlin

:banghead
 
Slomo has a set on his Factory and I think this has sorted it. it moves the reservoir closer to the back of the bike, looks good also
 
Will look into it def, thanks. Looks like its going to be the project for winter, sorting it all out. :yes
 
Move the brake master cylinder away from the exhaust, which is what the rearsets do.
 
There's a gazillion threads about how crap/non existant the rear brake is.
A few lucky owners have no problem.
But the majority do over the lifetime of the bike.
Bleeding WILL NOT fix it permanently. (Check out KzMille's brilliant bleed thread on AF1)
Hanging weights on the brake lever is also a temporary fix.

BUT...if you want a rear brake, that works, all the time without any fiddling or fuss, you'll need to fit some rearsets (any make will do, as long as they re-locate the m/c off the motor)

BTW...the general consensus for the brake failing is cavitation caused by high frequency vibes.

Finally...one more thing ...WHERE THE **** ARE VOSA????!!!???!!! in this fiasco.....they declared the rear to be OK??? The twats might sit up when someone is seriously injured or killed.
 
Installing Rear sets thread
KZmille bleeding method

and a pair 'o dandy breeks

trews_a.jpg
 
I'm a little worried as I'm having the 12K service done soon. My rear brake has worked for the last year and half no worries at all. In fact can even slow the bike coming down from 90mph downhill approaching a roundabout just using it without the front brake at all.

Just worried that if the brakes are done on the 12K service that it might effect the rear brake. Would be tempted to get the rearsets and have them fitted whilst being done but that'd take the service cost plus those and sprockets up to £700 or thereabouts.

I'd like a few other bits as well but you can just keep spending and spending can't u on these things
 

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