Rear brake seems to be fixed!!!!!!

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A

Andywhedd

Joined
Jun 7, 2013
Messages
87
Location
Essex uk
Using the principal of "slow bleeding" ie putting prolonged pressure on the leaver I seem to have cures the age old problem! Well for now, but its easy enough to do on a weekly basis


I took a 5l can of screen wash full and some old small metal disc weights and looped them together using cable ties I hooked this using another tie on te rear brake lever for a few days and after using my bike tidy for 60 miles and it getting very hot it seems to have sorted the issue!

I still plan to hook the weight on every few days to ensure its good but it works a treat

Hth
 
Used to have a problem on my Triumph Sprint St a few years back.
The front brake would go spongy after a few weeks, Cable tied the lever back over night.
Next day a nice solid brake lever.
Never did find the route cause.

Jeff
 
i've read all over this forum about the spongy or non-existant back brake on the mille/rsv but i find it odd that after 13 bikes serviced by me none have had the problem come back... i tend to believe it's all about the correct bleeding method and nothing else... assuming the seals are ok, that is!
 
Stress made the first claim to be a whizz at sorting the brake issue so I thought he might share his technique.
Feel free to share yours though.
 
Well as th op stated by putting continuos pressure on the lever you will in fact force the air out!

I've used (on other bikes) a combination of non return valves and the open-squeeze-close method with a length of pipe into a jar pre filled with some brake fluid to stop fluid return
 
Ok. Assuming that the calliper is off and suspended on the exhaust hanger to get the bleed nipple uppermost.
Would you pump pump pump hold the pressure then open the bleed nipple whilst gently pushing down on the brake lever. Then holding it down whilst closing the nipple?
Repeat til your brake travel is down to about 2 inches max.
Or don't bother building pressure first.
 
Personally I'd put as much fluid through as pos so

Push-open-close let go

Then

Open push close let go and pump loads of fluid through unroll its clear of air bubbles
 
Ok. I've got it so the pressure has maintained for about 6 weeks now. Next I will try again to reduce pedal travel before the brake starts to bind. Gotta get some fresh fluid and I will report my progress.
 
off with the caliper, place the nipple so it is at the highest point and then bleed it. i put either a flat iron piece (don't know how you call it in english) or a brake pad press (again, don't know if it's the correct term) and bleed it like any other brake system. to make it faster when it's either empty or in doubt i crack open the banjo bolts too. :) enjoy your now-working rear brake! :)
 
Here we go again....you lot should get a job with:
Southern Cross
Aprilia Performance
AF1 and just about every other Aprilia specialist on the planet...you'll make a fortune now you've found the cure :lol

While you're at it....perhaps one of you can maybe explain why some bike have persistent problems, whilst others don't?
Or why a relocation of the m/c gives a perfect pedal....every time?
Or why nobody has a problem bleeding an identical system but with the m/c relocated?
Most of the Aprilia community has been looking for the answer those these questions for several years

Personally, I've had great success bleeding three affected bikes, and failed on one (my own)
Five others have tried to bleed mine, three of them were Aprilia specialists....they all got a perfect pedal (just like me) but then just like all affected bikes, the pedal would go 'off' again after a few hundred miles.
I'm convinced that the reason no one could get a brake fix on my bike was because all that tried were all right handed.
No doubt one of you guys is a leftie?
:)
 
Or maybe some people could post what they found what they worked for them and anyone with a problem could try any combination of what's been suggested to see what works for them????

Or you can jump in with sarcasm and add nothing to the thread?

...... Oh you've just done that, thanks
 
It wasn't my intention to appear sarcastic. If that's the case, or you found it in any way sarcastic I apologise.

What I'm trying to add to the thread is that there have been many, many highly skilled techs who have failed to bleed some of these brakes with long term success.....I use the word some because it's known that not all are bikes affected.
To be fair, you haven't done anything that many (including myself) have already tried.

Applying continual pressure to the lever (or slow bleeding as you call it?) will definitely give you a firm pedal....but it won't last.
Dozens use this technique, they usually hang a weight on the pedal over night....it's a common temporary fix, and well known in the Aprilia community.
Nobody however can explain exactly why it works....air appears to leave the system...but never fluid?

If you genuinely feel that you have discovered a solution, please share it.
To suggest that those without a working rear brake are incapable of bleeding their systems is a little rich.
 
Without a doubt it's an inexplicable situation. When I started the search for a solution to my rear brake only holding pressure for a few hundred miles I quickly realised that it was a complete anomaly.
I'm no Aprilia expert engineer but I can bleed a brake line without difficulty. I've done it all ways now along with also having had it done by a service centre.
It's still rubbish. The rearsets route awaits me next season. Unless Santa brings me an RSV4!
 
I'm not suggesting I've got THE solution just saying I've found that mine has held up well over around 1000 miles and whilst standing stationary, for those that haven't tried it, it worked for me that's all
 
I printed something off from this forum (sorry but can't remember exactly where I found it) but it involves making sure the pedal is adjusted properly in the threaded bar fitted to it. And having the calliper off with the bleed nipple at the top.
Then I used a syringe and length of pipe to pull clean fluid through - it went from being spongy to rock solid, to the point where if I use it the back wheel locks up!!
So I don't use the back brake, never have done and don't really see the point, but it MOT worthy I guess!!
 
Changed my master cylinder for one off a Shiver, bled it like this & it's been perfect for nearly 2 years, as said make sure you have enough free play in the push rod to allow for heat expansion.

 

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