Joined Oct 2009
195 Posts | 0+
Hertfordshire
This guide is intended for all those who want to upgrade their horizonally mounted rear brake master cylinder on their RSV1000s to due to loss of braking power. The master cylinder I used for this is the Brembo item for the Ducati 1098S, which exits on top rather than at the end like the OEM unit. Because of this, a new brake line will also be required. Total cost at the time of writing is approximately GBP 60.00 using brand new components.
NB This guide is not a how to for bleeding a hydraulic system. If you do not not know the basics for this, please read a guide about this first.
I used the custom service from HEL Performance using the telephone number available on their website for the new brake hose. I ordered 30" (~760mm) long with straight banjo one end, and 90 degree side bend banjo on the other. However, I reckon it is about ½" (13mm) longer than ideal.
Once you have the right hand side fairing(s) removed, work can begin. On later versions, both the upper and lower panels need removing. Please remember, brake fluid strips paint, so keep a bucket of water to hand in case of any accidents.
This is what the OEM and new cylinder look like in comparison, prior to fitting, clearly showing the fundamental difference.
First thing is to drain the system of fluid, and the easiest way of doing that is with a vacuum pump. The one I have can be bought for about GBP 25.00 and is definitely worth the investment.
Once this has been done, the OEM master cylinder can be removed.
We also need to remove the pushrod, because the boss that goes into the master cylinder is too large to fit the Ducati item, so it needs machining. I have since discovered that Brembo do make a larger bore item, the same as the OEM, but the smaller bored item used here has better feel due to a slightly different hydraulic ratio. I decided to completely remove this boss, although you could turn it down to fit if you so desire.
Next, the OEM brake line needs to be removed. Don't forget to cut the cable tie securing the speed sensor wire to the hose, and to remove the retainer attached to the swingarm.
Now the new line and brake cylinder can be securely fitted, attaching the reservoir with the same hose and clip, and using the new copper washers supplied for the banjos.
Don't forget to allow some free play when you adjust the push rod.
Loosen the reservoir mounting screw enough to enable refilling; there's not enough room to do so easily otherwise.
To bleed the system, the caliper must be suspended upside down, so that the bleed nipple is uppermost. It is also imperative that the caliper pistons are fully retacted; failure to do so will result with air in the caliper. This photo shows it hanging from the front peg, but this is not high enough. The rear peg/exhaust hanger is better (protect your exhaust with some rag).
Fill the reservoir and bleed. This will require several cycles untill all the air has been dispelled.
NB Do not operate the pedal until the caliper is refitted. Doing so will push out the pistons.
Caliper and the hose guide can now be refitted. As you can see from the photo, the line is just slightly longer than ideal.
My rear brake now feels far more powerful and controllable than it ever did, even from new. I can actually stop the bike with it now, feeling firm and progressive. I have yet to test its longevity over thousands of miles, but I got the inspiration from another forum member on here who has, and he has had no problems whatsoever since the upgrade.
NB This guide is not a how to for bleeding a hydraulic system. If you do not not know the basics for this, please read a guide about this first.
I used the custom service from HEL Performance using the telephone number available on their website for the new brake hose. I ordered 30" (~760mm) long with straight banjo one end, and 90 degree side bend banjo on the other. However, I reckon it is about ½" (13mm) longer than ideal.
Once you have the right hand side fairing(s) removed, work can begin. On later versions, both the upper and lower panels need removing. Please remember, brake fluid strips paint, so keep a bucket of water to hand in case of any accidents.
This is what the OEM and new cylinder look like in comparison, prior to fitting, clearly showing the fundamental difference.
First thing is to drain the system of fluid, and the easiest way of doing that is with a vacuum pump. The one I have can be bought for about GBP 25.00 and is definitely worth the investment.
Once this has been done, the OEM master cylinder can be removed.
We also need to remove the pushrod, because the boss that goes into the master cylinder is too large to fit the Ducati item, so it needs machining. I have since discovered that Brembo do make a larger bore item, the same as the OEM, but the smaller bored item used here has better feel due to a slightly different hydraulic ratio. I decided to completely remove this boss, although you could turn it down to fit if you so desire.
Next, the OEM brake line needs to be removed. Don't forget to cut the cable tie securing the speed sensor wire to the hose, and to remove the retainer attached to the swingarm.
Now the new line and brake cylinder can be securely fitted, attaching the reservoir with the same hose and clip, and using the new copper washers supplied for the banjos.
Don't forget to allow some free play when you adjust the push rod.
Loosen the reservoir mounting screw enough to enable refilling; there's not enough room to do so easily otherwise.
To bleed the system, the caliper must be suspended upside down, so that the bleed nipple is uppermost. It is also imperative that the caliper pistons are fully retacted; failure to do so will result with air in the caliper. This photo shows it hanging from the front peg, but this is not high enough. The rear peg/exhaust hanger is better (protect your exhaust with some rag).
Fill the reservoir and bleed. This will require several cycles untill all the air has been dispelled.
NB Do not operate the pedal until the caliper is refitted. Doing so will push out the pistons.
Caliper and the hose guide can now be refitted. As you can see from the photo, the line is just slightly longer than ideal.
My rear brake now feels far more powerful and controllable than it ever did, even from new. I can actually stop the bike with it now, feeling firm and progressive. I have yet to test its longevity over thousands of miles, but I got the inspiration from another forum member on here who has, and he has had no problems whatsoever since the upgrade.
Last edited:
