Guides R&G crash bungs - fitting hints

Awright loons.. splashed oot oan a full set o they sexy R&G crash protectors,

Front upper set
rear lower set
Front fork set

So ah thought ah wid pit doon how it went in fitting them and a couple o wee pointers ah found fur any one else thinkin o fitting them.

First prob!.. the instructions I got were all in French wi nae English ones at all an wir rattlin oan aboot 04 RSVs. Also couldn,t find any tae down load frae R&G website either!
Anyroads..

Tools used,
12mm,15mm, 17mm ring spanners, 10mm,13mm,19mm socket, 3mm, 4mm, 8mm allen keys, ratchet,
Note the socket for the actual bung bolt needs to be quite thin sided as the bore is quite nippit. I had to use the one from my 1/4" drive socket set as it was lighter made than the 1/2" drive one.


So,gettin started, the front fork ones, dead easy so no need to say much other than coat all the parts hidden in the axles wi some copper slip tae protect from corrosion (shouldn,t be needed but it will help)

Lower rear ones next...note the difference in diameter of the small ends, larger is right hand, smaller is left hand (as you sit on bike)



RHand - Remove the lower engine bolt using socket on bolt and 15mm spanner on inside of the frame


You can get better spanner access if you remove the heat shield off the exhaust. 3mm allen key.



Note the R&G threaded rods have different thread so you cant re-use the nuts.



Take the nut off the short end of the threaded bar then insert thru frame to screw into nut. The long thread end goes into frame. I found using some duct tape on the back of the 17mm spanner to hold the nut in made all the difference as there is no room to get your hand in.


There is also a washer, which again I taped to the spanner to hold it on while pickin up the thread o the nut. Worked a treat!


Once you have a few threads on the nut slide the bung on and fit the nut ( it should be on the shorter of the threaded ends)





Nip up the nuts until all is tight and good. Replace heat shield.

L Hand - pretty much the same as RH side. This is the bung with the smaller end diameter.





Again a wee bit o tape helps holds the nut on while ye screw in the rod.


Jobs done!


part two next post......

Right the upper ones...



Note the long allen cap screw goes with the RH mount, one hole in the mount has a deeper boss, you will see it when you look. This will also help you identify which is RH and LH as they are not marked. also the pitch of the holes is slightly different ( wider on the RH side one)

Front Upper R Hand -
Remove the RH ear, side fairing wing piece, and coolant expansion tank cover, using 4 mm allen key an 12mm spanner.



Loosen off coolant tank nuts so it can be dropped out the way.



This is a good time to check out the imfamous brown connector for condition. Mine was dirty a bit but otherwise in sound condition.



The RH mount is fitted where the two engine bolts are. Remove these using 13mm socket. Note the head of these bolts are quite shallow so make sure your socket is a good fit cos rounding one o these would be a real ******* (I almost did cos one was so tight and had to chap on a tighter fitting 1/2" socket to make sure ah could get it oot wi oot roundin it)



The wiring here slightly obscures the bolts and is quite tight so you need to gently push n pull it oot the way so you can get access.

Offer up the mount. It fits into the frame holes. Screw in the cap screws (i used thread lock here as well) 8mm allen key.





Once yer happy with it and all is tight, fit the bung using the hex head bolt supplied. This where the 19mm socket needs to be of a slim fit as the bore o the bung is tight.

Then ye need to take a wee check out of the plastic side fairing bitty. Offer it up and use the marker to outline it. I just used my angle grinder and it worked great. Take little bites then check for fit, then trim again. Try to keep it as neat as possible.



Replace the coolant tank, plastics etc as reverse of earlier. Good time to check level as well and watch oot for wear marks on the hoses!! I had two points were there was significant chaffin from the sharp edges o the covers and plastics. One on the hose into the radiator filler and the other on the wee hose running up from the clutch cover caused by the coolant tank cover edge.



Front upper L Hand -

Remove upper plastic ear and side fairing and the oil tank cover.



Loosen off the oil tank and let it drop down. This create s enogh room to get socket in to engine bolts. Note when you re-install tank there is a wee spacer that goes on the top tank mount stud to keep it away from the crash bung mount.



You will see my tank was as pretty rusty ( all that winter riding ah guess) so ah took the chance to paint it as well.



Remove the two engine bolts. The coolant pipe is right in the way of the lower one but has enough play to push gently up a bit out the way. Watch also that there is a mount bracket for the radiator here that drops down a wee bit once the bolts are removed. so watch when pushing protector mount cap screws thru.



offer up mount to engine bolt holes. Note which way up it goes. Use thread lock here.





It si a bit of a fiddle cos of the pipework but it will fit.

Screw tight using 8mm allen key ( I used my socket drive one to do the final tightening bit.)

For info there was a fair degree of difference as to how tight or loose the original engine bolts all were, some really tight and a couple not!

Once done refit the oil tank making sure all studs are aligned properly. remeber the wee spacer for the top one that kicks the tank out a wee bit.



Like on R H side, trim the plastic fairing piece as required for a neat fit. Replace all the other plastics as required.




Finally. fit in bung using the hex head bolt and 19mm socket as on other side.

Ahv probably missed something out so apologies for any glarin errors. However its not that hard a task if you have the right tools to hand and are methodical in approach.

Any hopefully ah never need tae put them tae use!!

DAVE B said:

wicked post rico, that rear shock needs a ******* good clean though !!!

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The whole bikes maukit as had been usin it a lot recently. Its probably a good idea tae give yer steed a thorugh clean before gettin intae any serious spanner work. The shockers well doused wd40 so will clean up nae problem.

Nob said:

Nice one R min, better than the one I did :thumbup I'm glad it got lost because yours shames it.
BUT,,,,,,,,,,,, go back and tha nors that big broon connector ? Split it, clean it and cake it in that diabetic grease stuff :thumbup
9.5/10:eek

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Ah did Nob min..all was good..but as a dinna hae any fancy dialect gel stuff used a certain brand o petroleum based lubricant beginnin wi V... Works fine enough on batteries etc.

pinny said:

Nice post Rico, like you attention to detail, especially in pic 1 where you have parked your workbench on the car play mat pit stop area.
Put a lot of thought into that..

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It wiz cauld so moved bench intae the bairns room an made them sleep in the shed......

how dae ye get threads like this set up as Stickies?