Quick release connectors on fuel supply line

I was thinking of fitting something like these on the fuel supply line, to make taking the tank off less hassle:

MOTORCYCLE QUICK RELEASE FUEL LINE COUPLER KIT STRAIGHT | eBay

Has anyone done this?

Can anyone think of any reason it wouldn't work?

Anyone know offhand what the ID of the supply pipe?

Cheers1

An update:

I'm going to do this - I've been reading up on Aprilia Forum and a couple of people have done it.

I'm actually going to replace both fuel lines as it looks like I've got a fuel leak from the return line, just under the FPR and you're supposed to replace them every few years anyway. I'm also going to replace the plastic QR fittings on the return with the metal ones from Tom Parker. Tom Parker Ltd, Preston > CPC Plastic & Brass Couplings > Brass > CPC LC Series - 1/4" Flow

I got a bit confused reading through the posts regarding this because a lot of them were talking about doing it on a Futura, on which the return line is different and uses two different diameters of pipe (3/8 and 1/4) on the return and hence different QR fittings.

Looking at mine, the RSV uses only 1/4" ID pipe on the return. I'm not going to cut the existing braided supply line, but make up a new one using new banjo fittings (M12, 6mm hose tail), 6mm ID SAE J30 R9 fuel injection hose and secured with Oetiken clips.

I'l post updates and pics as the bits arrive and I get on with it. Here's one of my leaking return line - I've noticed a whiff of fuel but there was no obvious drips:

Of course if they turn out good you could have alittlesideline making up for other people

LoL! Let's see how it goes..

Just thought I'd post an update. Got the connectors from Tom Parker and changed the fuel lines over. Just done a 200 mile trip today (my first proper trip on the Mille) and no problems.

The main thing to pay attention to if you do this is the lengths of the pipe runs and hence the position of the connectors. I ended up remaking both runs to get this right - buy plenty of fuel line and Oetiker clamps. What you dont want, and what I ended up with the first ime round is either the connectors to be next to each other, or the lines to be too long. If the connectors are next to each other, the space is too tight and you may worry that the release buttons could get pushed due to this. If the lines end up too long, the pipes don't route properly and you can end up with the connectors in contact with the frame, which they will scratch and perhaps the connector buttons could get pushed. However, if you have all four connectors valved, all that happens is the connectors push apart a bit from the pressure. There is no spillage unless you actually pull them apart and then it's only a drop.

You also need to make sure that the connector buttons face in towards the cylinders - you don't want to have then facing out wards in case they push against the frame although if you get the lengths right, they shouldnn't anyway. Also pay attention to the positioning of the Oetiker clamps - particularaly on the banjo fitting underneath the tank. Mine only just cleared the guides which make sure you can only fit the banjo at the right angle. Also, you don't want the ears of the clamps either scratching the frame or rubbing againt the other pipe.

Here are the two lines connected to the tank. The whole length of the supply line is shown, with the new banjo fitting for the throttle body shown:


Here is my first attempt at the return line from the FPR. This turned out to be too long and the supply and return connectors were next to each other:


Here is the second attempt, which is just about right:


And here is the view through the gap between the frame and the tank with the tank lowered. NB: the return line gets 'pulled' a bit when you lower the tank, so you need to make sure the length is adequate so that is doesn't become taught:



Getting the tank off to check the valve clearances was a piece of cake with these fitted. It just makes routine maintainance less of a ball ache when you don't have to drain the tank and mess around with banjo connectors etc. NB: keep the old return line so if you do want to drain the tank, you can simply connect it to to the connector on the new return line and drain the fuel into a petrol can.

What I must do is measure the lengths of line I used for each run and post the details for guidance. Bear in mind it was about -4 deg C outside and snowing on and off when I did this!

Nice job.....What was the cost in the end?

Hi Redrat,

The quick release connectors where about £80. The fuel line was about £10, the banjo connectors where about £5 and I got the Oetiker clamps and pliers for about £20 on ebay.

I suppose it's debatable whether to include the cost of the Oetiker stuff, as it's used on other bits of the bike, so you could say it was worth having anyway..

You have done a good job of that :thumbup

I can see a kit in the making? :eatcorn

Dear all,

An important update on my hose replacement. I was doing a service on the Mille yesterday and I was horrified to find that the SAE J9 hose that I had used was severely cracked on the outside. I have now put back the original lines which I had kept. I did change the original plastic CPC connector for one of the metal ones I had used.

NB: there was no problem whatsoever with the metal connectors I used, but I will have to think again about replacement lines. I'm afraid I was too busy to take pictures, but my lines looked exactly like the one in this thread, and were from the same supplier:

EarlyBay.com forums ? View topic - "Quality" fuel rubber hose 1 yr old and split SAE J30 R9

If you have done a similar job using SAE J9 hose, please check your lines. From the thread above, it looks like it's the ethanol in modern fuel that causes this, especially in vehicles which sometimes aren't used for a period of time.