Problems with my RSV

Yeti_1994 · Jan 5, 2016

Hi guys.

So I'm new to the site. I just purchased my first RSV. My dream bike. I've been riding a year on a 650 bandit and still got a year till I'm unrestricted so this bike is my first project and so excited to start. So you most probably see me posting quite a bit

So first problem is this rear brake is pretty much non existent, I was told he has bled the brakes several times but no luck. I did some research and everyone recommends relocation of the master cylinder and res. Is there a kit of specifics rear sets to buy. I did see rsv4 do internal M/c?

Second this is someone has tried fitting LED rear lights and the wiring is terrible . Using just normal house electrical blocks so I'm wondering if someone can send a photo of the wirin under the rear seat so I can compare and start to work.

Also the bike was dropped but the only thing damage was a the front fairing, so I'm on the look out lol.

Anyway thanks

Yeti

redratbike · Jan 5, 2016

Welcome along

Caliper off and tie as high as you can with the nipple the highest point and bleed bleed bleed .

Aprilia performance rearsets move the mc ....or go falco rearset on that side they have a higher mc

Can't help on the wiring as my bike is in bits...but if it's a combined rearlight with indicators then most mot stations will fail it

MumboJumbo · Jan 7, 2016

Hi mate, I've had many problems over the years with rear brakes on these bikes, and as Redrat says get it off the bike and high up (I usually tie or bungee it to the rear subframe) and bleed it through. I usually leave mine overnight with the nipple open to help bubbles get to the top, and sometimes it helps to suck the fluid through using a syringe. In my opinion there's no need to change or relocate the back brake, I've never had one not bleed properly.

Spoonz · Jan 8, 2016

If it's a Gen 2 then 100% relocate it as the M/C is mounted less than an inch from the collector and the fluid gets cooked. No amount of bleeding will fix it for long.

Gen 1 is not so heat affected so good bleeding can sort it out if the M/C is still good. Some of them are getting quite tired by now as early Gen1's are now 17 ish years old.

redratbike · Jan 8, 2016

there is a heatshield you can buy that slip behind the m/c ...how god it is i dont know

Spoonz · Jan 8, 2016

redratbike said:
there is a heatshield you can buy that slip behind the m/c ...how god it is i dont know

It's not one of aprilia's brightest idea's. A thin ally heatshield that gets red hot also. Certainly on my Gen2 it made no difference whatsoever. Aprilia replaced M/c's and messed with my Gen2 for 2 years under warranty and the brake never worked beyond a couple of days. Fitted Gilles rearsets and relocated M/C and brake perfect after that. When I sold the bike Garin had the rearsets for his Tuono and his back brake is perfect ever since too.

On my Gen1 my back brake worked perfect on the oem setup for the 4 years I owned it so I think the brake issues with them is less generic and more bleeding/shot M/C etc.

petersv · Apr 25, 2016

Hi Yeti,

I had exactly the same issue, there's loads of advice on here all of it makes a great deal of sense. Check out the link to this thread. I followed it exactly six months ago and my back brake has gone from being non existent and I mean completely nothing, to being a bit of a pain in the Ar*e because its a bit too effective and if you tread too hard will lock up.

http://apriliarsv.com/guides/68-bleeding-rear-brake.html

Hope this helps.

Pete

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Problems with my RSV

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