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poor starting

R

Rsvr06

Joined Jun 2007
219 Posts | 0+
1
had my bike off the road for a few months as it didnt want to work in cold conditions

now its got warmer i've started using it but the problem i have is when i try to start the bike it just winds over and coughs then i get a loud clunk

after trying a few more times it will start

any ideas to why its being a pain in the arse

i have a 14bs battery on it and the yam starter solinoid , checked the tb's and there balanced just right

so im out of ideas
 
Mate this is a copy of the reply i put on Rsvr.net to your question in ncase you see it here first.

Listen to the guys, Kiwi has got the t-shirt, bought the copyright and married the scriptwriter for "Sprag clutch the movie"

Time to seek a knowing eye to look over it before it gets more expensive than it may be now.


Ohh dear not good.

The clunk sounds ominously like a sprag clutch issue especially if it's coming from the left front of the motor.

sometimes if it coughs on one cylinder it can make a clonk but for sure it will be giving the sprag a hard time so you need to be very careful.
My advice would be to get it looked at because it should fire into life easily if all is good and repeated attempts to fire here up while experimenting will likely do some damage to the sprag if it's not damaged already.

You know your soleniod is good so your problem is going to be one of or a combination of. Sprag slipping, plugs, fuel, batt.
Might be worth a trip to Griff as a sprag if it goes is going to cost you a lot more money than him checking it over on the axone.

Obvious things you can easily check yourself is batt/solenoid leads are tight, batt voltage is 12 v + ideally 12.6 ish to show it has enough oomph and plug caps etc are secure.

Out of interest how did you check the Tb's ?
If your bike is post 04 they are synced by CO not vac as the vac should be staggered between cylinders not balanced.
 
battery is fully cahrged and reading 13.6 looks like i will be goging to see griff asap now as it scares the crap out of me thinking its gonna **** up

the tb's were ballanced with vacume gages by a shop . ...... shows that the mechanic knows nothing :(

if it is the sprag on its way out is it a costly job ?
 
Sprag is costly in terms of using Aprilia Parts and the time it takes to get them.

If you are prepared to entertain alternatives then the BMW Sprag clutch is about 60 quid against the 160 for the genuine Aprilia item.

Mine starts fine as testified by AMB67

You can do it youself if you are mechanically able and thus save labour costs
 
ill have to see when griff have a free spot as i might aswell as get the whole bike checked over at the same time
 
I guess you have to weigh up the costs of the puller, thread lock etc and your time/expereience against the labour cost of a shop to do it for you.

My advice would be source your own parts and get Griff or someone to fit them if your not confident.
Ducati is another source for the sprag clutch if you don't go the BMW route but the housing is not the same so has to come from Aprilia.

That's always assuming the sprag is defunct.
The rsv engine makes hideous noises if on one cylinder, like it is eating itself for lunch so it's not 100% a sprag failure but is high on the list of likely culprits.

Regards the Tb's they are linked on the post 04 bikes as the vac controls th e auto idle so aprilia give CO priority over vac in setting them up. With a balanced CO the vac is staggered usually 50hpa higher on the front cylinder.
It varies from bike to bike but a matched vac probably means you have mis matched CO which might affect your idle/low running a little.
 
I used
Ducati Sprag Housing
BMW Sprag cutch (it fits in back to front to the Aprilia one)
and the Aprilia Sprag gear

I would also replace the flywheel bolt and keyway as a matter of precaution but this would be just me and from my experience.
 
just a update went to the gym on it today and it stuck up perfect first time

i have put a full tank of super unleded in and gonna see how it runs later

will be getting griff to do the work as im not one to tinker
 
bad news its the sprag clutch

can anyone tell me what part numbers ill need and who from , need to keep the cost down as much as possible too :(
 
Okay heres some info for you
genuine Aprilia parts (www.speedaway.co.uk)

Sprag Clutch £178.91
Sprag Clutch Housing £60.33
Sprag Clutch Gear £139.39
Gasket £7.43

BMW Sprag clutch ENA57177 £58.81 (BMW Motorworks)

Now you may NOT need the Sprag clutch gear, but you will only be able to tell if you vcan accuraltely measure the inside diameter of the phosphur bronze bush.

You WILL need a flywheel puller and the CORRECT Loctite (643 & 648), a torqure wrench, something to lock the crank (I used a long but high quality 8mm dia screwdriver) and fresh oil (change the filter while you are at it).

Its not hard to do , take your time and be methodical ....................................
 
There is no appreciable difference other than the BMW one fits in back to front (the flange goes against the sprag gear), there are a fair few people arouind using the BMW with no issue's.
Save yourself some money :)
 
nice 1 kiwi rsvr your a star many thanks for your help


will the bike start and run better once ive replaced the sparg ?
 
It will certainly start better !!.

I keep mine on an Optimate when not in use, have got a decent battery, replaced the starter solenoid and done the wiring loom mod for the charging circuit.

and religously follow the recomended starting procedure.......................it starts 1st time everytime now
 
Basically there is a brown connector the joins the the 3 wires from the alternator to the Reg.Rec unit under the tale plastics (Well on my 2000 model anyway), this brown connector is made of cheese and potato peelings often corroding and then melting owing to the resistance across the corroded terminals

The mod cuts out this connector and joins the wires together with preferably solder joints.
 
Typo ...sorry all , You can only use the Aprilia Housing !!!
You can however use the Ducati Sprag Clutch :)
 

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