Please God...someone help me!

My Bike = RSV Mille W(2000)

My Problem = Bike starts up fine and runs normally with no EFI warning message but cuts out when I engage first gear. Bike was functioning normally at end of season when I purchased it. I thought I had this sorted when the side stand safety switch was found to be broken (locating pin which goes into stand itself had snapped off and switch wasn't moving properly with stand) Purchased a new one which hasn't made a difference. Even made the overide as suggested in another thread but bike still cuts out. Clutch switch appears to be functioning properly and all fuses are o.k.

Can anyone help before I have to admit defeat and take it to my local garage?

Many thanks

Richard

Have you looked at the clutch switch on the handle bar, just a thought

^^
be my first stop

Also if you havent already, get yourself a multimeter and check that the switches are getting 12v's. Being Itilian and us living in england i think a good multimeter will be a wise investment..

:stupid

-:banana

Just a thought but have you checked ALL fuses

Hi

All fuses checked and appear in order. Will have a better look at the clutch switch and check it's operation.

are all connections on the battery secure? have you got an alarm fitted dude?

Battery connections fine. Immobiliser fitted which also appears to be in working order. By that I mean it arms de arms itself with the required fob and the bike starts up fine when this is done a normal.

Your problem is almost definately side stand switch or clutch plate related.

The clutch switch is purely to allow you to start the bike in gear assuming the stand is up. It can't stop the engine once it's running because it is a cut out for the starter motor not the engine.

The sidestand/neutral switch are just earth switching. when in neutral the ignition circuit is earthed by the neutral switch so the bike will start.
When the sidestand is down the dash light is earthed and switches on.

when the stand is up it gives another earth to the ignition circuit to replace the earth that will be lost when the neutral earth goes off in gear. You are either missing that earth from the sidestand switch or the problem could be stuck clutch plates if it's stood for a long time and the bike is just stalling when going into gear.

If you are 100% sure you bypassed the side stand switch correctly? then you most likely have a clutch issue.

Thanks for taking the time to reply. You sound like you know your stuff! With my limited skills I believe I have bypassed the side stand switch. Light no longer comes on/off on dash no matter what the position of stand. I was beginning to wonder about the clutch myself. Albeit that's where my knowledge of clutches starts and ends. Lever has always felt a little easy to pull or maybe spongy. Is it a big job to sort stuck clutch plates? Bike has sat up for winter basically. Thanks again

the easist way to check if it's the clutch is to get the bike rolling before putting it in gear or start it on a paddock stand. Be careful obviously in case you run into something or falling off the stand. On a paddock stand/rolling it should go into gear without stalling the engine with a little revs but if it does you will have to stop on the kill or ignition switch.

If it still stalls when rolling or on a stand then look again at your switch wiring. if it runs ok then If your sure the clutch circuit is air free then you either need to strip out the basket to free the plates or ride it round a car park or something with the clutch lever held in. As it warms the plates normally suddenly pop free.

Thanks to all who helped me with replies.

Finally concluded that this is probably a clutch issue. In and out of gear no problems on paddock stand. Managed to start in gear and got up and running round block. Difficult to get into 3rd or any further and when I came to stop pulled clutch and the bike stalled again. Would appear that side stand switch is working fine but the failure of the last one just coincided with this clutch issue. Any comments again gratefully received.

Richard

follow the clutch bleeding procedure laid out in the how to section.

Richard you need to make 100% sure it's the clutch plates before you go to the hassle of pulling the basket apart.

If you had lots of air in the clutch hydraulics or a faulty M/C or slave you would get the same symptoms.

Do you have lots of play at the lever (should have 15mm at lever tip) and do you get normal resistance when you pull it ? ie: does it feel like you are actually moving the clutch pushrod when the lever is pulled.

It might be worth doing a bleed anyway as it's pretty easy. you can check the slave piston is moving by taking out the mounting bolts and pulling the lever whilst holding it in place with your hand. It should push away from the engine with more force than you can hold it there with.

If it is the plates and riding around doesn't free them and you really don't want to pull it apart then find a little gradiant if poss and try and bump start the bike in about 2nd or third with the clutch lever held in. The object is not to start the bike but to shock free the plates so you can do it with the ignition off. If that doesn't work you will have to go in and look. needs a decent slope though so you can get beyond walking speed.

clutch lever doesn't feel right to me.
Too easy to pull compared to other bikes i've had as if it's not doing anything..

is this the same as play?

I think i'll try the bleed first as you and others have suggested.

Richard

by "play" i mean free movement of the lever before the lever meets resistance.

If it turns out to be your slave let me know as I have a spare you can have if you cover the postage.

Hi all

Thanks to everyone who helped me out!

Clutch has been bled and now all problems sorted. Out on the bike today and i'm in love again!!!!

Richard

Glad you got it sorted mucker:thumbup. Don't you just love that feeling when you finally sort out those annoying, hard to solve faults:banana