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Numerous problems? please help

Wingnut

Wingnut

Joined May 2013
15 Posts | 0+
Manchester
Hi,
I,m both new to the site and also new to rsv,s.

I have a 2007 rsvr factory, and after 3 months very happy ownership have run into a few teething problems, all was going well until my last ride where the bike seemed to run a little warmer than usual 98 - 105 but as it was 35c and had been told these run hot, I wasn't overly concerned. Here's where the trouble started.

1/ First noticed occasional pop/bang on the over run
2/ Cut out at lights or when stopping but would immediately restart
3/ Making my way home as realising all was not right, it started popping and banging constantly on over run and occasionally dropping a cylinder
4/ Cut out on huge hill in Macclesfield, wouldn't start with 11.7 v on the dash but managed to bump after a couple of tries and made it home
5/ Had to leave he bike a was going out so put on charge, optimate.
6/ Looked at the bike tonight and got the following:
12v at the battery ign off
Bike at idle volts start to drop to 11.7
At 4000rpm, appears to get charge as battery is at 12.2v. Assuming this should be nearer 13.5 - 14.5v?
At 4000rpm, occasionally will miss fire,
I have checked the brown plug from reg/rectifier which is ok as is the white plug, but after a few minutes of the bike running you can't touch the rectifier it's that hot. Is this normal?
7/ I'm assuming the stator is ok as all the windings would be connected and if burnt out, wouldn't produce a charge? (Please correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not proud - just want to get back enjoying the bloody thing)
Any help would be extremely appreciated!
Thanks
Rick
 
To me it sounds like a pretty common fault but there are others on here which are a bit more experienced than me. I would say its 2 things 1 the battery is probably toast, take it from me the battery really wants to be in absolutely perfect condition on these bikes even if it seems ok I would be tempted to swap it and if you you do but one which is 14amp hour rather than 12 amp hour you want as much cold cranking power as possible.
2 the charging circuit is probably at fault as with many of these bikes there is a million posts on here and over forums on various mods and problem solving all very worth doing.
Do go by the voltage on the dash check the charge with a multimeter, I would guess that there is resistanc on the white and brown plugs which is causing the heat, the reg/Rex might be goosed but from posts on here it's more commonly the connectioning rather than the reg/Rex failing.
Hope this helps fella
 
Hi mate

Just wanted to add a few queries I had, as I wasn't sure if a knackered battery or Reg/Rec would cause the cutting out at idle, the popping/banging on overrun (including the flames from the exhaust you saw once) or slight misfiring when held at 4k rpm.

Also, would that cause the hot running issue? My bike (2000 Mille) runs at a steady 75*C, rising slightly in traffic, or on a hot day in town - to around mid 80s and up to 95*C when sitting at the lights etc. But I don't think I've ever seen >100*C, whereas yours now runs to 105*C quite easily.

Yours seems to idle at around 850-900rpm now, but unlike on my bike, we couldn't find a way to adjust this. I've set mine to idle at around 1200-1250rpm, as I had it cut out once or twice when it was idling around 1000rpm.

Doing a bit of reading on here after searching, I realise that the OE Reg/Rec does get very hot - so the temp of yours yesterday probably didn't mean it was broken. But I think the Reg/Rec and wiring mods that are mentioned would be a good idea (for both of us).
 
Thanks all,
I've just ordered myself a motobatt battery and will sort out the connectors before trying anything else, when everyone talks about soldering the connections - do they mean cut the brown plug out or re-solder the connections within the plug?
 
Mate if I can do it anyone can, also I fitted the up rated 150amp solenoid this wont be part of your problems but worth doing at some point fella
 
Wingnut said:
Thanks all,
I've just ordered myself a motobatt battery and will sort out the connectors before trying anything else, when everyone talks about soldering the connections - do they mean cut the brown plug out or re-solder the connections within the plug?
Click to expand...
I did mine yesterday - hour job including getting access.
I did not cut the brown connector
- simply soldered the bare wires on the crimps of the connectors once released from inside the block
Now runs with no overheating.
Yet to do the white connector as I need to make up the little sub-loom first.
 
Check the earths from from to engine are corrosion free ,ended up costing my mate 4 new rectifiers before that was located
 
Good stuff glad to hear it.. amazing something so straight forward can cause all those issues. Usually good to start with the simple things.
 
Not quite there yet, fitted the new motobatt battery and cut out and soldered the brown plug had to turn the rr upside down to make the wiring reach, but still only getting 12.2v max at 4000rpm. Will cut out the white connector tomorrow and look for dodgy earths, does anyone know if a stator can be partially burnt out?
 
I'm no expert but I would think that 12.2v just isn't enough by the time you have got your lights on and stuff it just isn't going to run the bike properly. There is probably more voltage to be found in the white connector mod, on the af1 forum there are some good trouble shooting guides.
 
Cut both connectors out, brown and white, cleaned up the earth where negative terminal lead meets the head as it was heavily corroded but still only 12.2v but this was more consistent when at 4k rpm, I've spoke to the place I bought it from and they have said to send them the stator and they would get it re-wound foc which is good

Not sure this will cure the miss fire but can't test properly until its charging correctly
Saga continues, you certainly get to know your bike quick with an aprilia, 3 months in and it's already in pieces!
 
Wingnut said:
Cut both connectors out, brown and white, cleaned up the earth where negative terminal lead meets the head as it was heavily corroded but still only 12.2v but this was more consistent when at 4k rpm, I've spoke to the place I bought it from and they have said to send them the stator and they would get it re-wound foc which is good

Not sure this will cure the miss fire but can't test properly until its charging correctly
Saga continues, you certainly get to know your bike quick with an aprilia, 3 months in and it's already in pieces!
Click to expand...

Are you reading the voltage from the dash? or a proper meter? Dash meter is notoriously inaccurate.

Rob :)
 
Mate I'm just the same had mine about 3 months too and had in pieces loads think of it as a bonding experience. Deffo check with a proper multimeter they are pretty cheap from almost anywhere these days.
Did you do the white connector mod? Also just making sure your solder joints are good and shiny helps a lot.
 
All checked with a multi-meter, any idea why the dash reading is so far out? Going to pull it apart tomorrow and get the stator sent off, need to get it fixed as soon as possible, I'm hoping to do a track day at the end of August....:)
 
OK...I might have missed it, but have you checked the voltages across the three yellows? (The ones in the brown connector?)
Y1 to Y2, Then Y1 to Y3 etc...it doesn't matter which...just check the voltages across.
You're looking for about 60v a/c at about 4000rpm so make sure you set your meter correctly.

If you've got a noticibly lower voltage on one of the yellows, then your stator is toast.
It's an easy fix, about £170 ish if you do it yourself.
£120 Stator rewind
£20 New gasket (but you might get away with using your old one)
£35 Fresh oil (you can maybe get away without an oil change, but when stators cook, they often contaminate the oil)
£6 Oil filter

If it's an early magnesium case motor, it's possible that it could have the 500w rotor, which puts out a little too much power causing the stator windings to fail prematurely. The later motors have 370w rotors (same stator) and are more or less bulletproof.
Aprilia have actually acknowlwged the problem, and they will sometimes consider a rotor swap but you have a really good relation with your dealer for them to put your case forward.

When I did mine, I used West Country Windings. pretty good people to deal with.
 
Last edited:
Checked the voltage across all of the yellow wires and barely got anything across any of them, I also had a look to see if a secondary brown connector was between the heads but its all one loom so no luck there, I took the side casing off to check the stator and it looks pretty fried on a few on the windings
 
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