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no start after clutch fluid leak

Joined Dec 2008
282 Posts | 0+
I was just breaking in my new barnett clutch plates last night and noticed that my clutch resorvoir was leaking due to A)bad hose connection B) bad seal on the end of the hose/clutch lever. And today my bike stalled on the freeway one of a sudden I tried to start it while going and it just won't . so I thought I ran out of gas so I stopped and I put 1 gallon and then tried to start until the battery was depleted. It doesn't have enought juice to start the bike it fired very weak two times, very very weak after trying many times. I hope my sprag is okay. It just won't start, the engine turns over when jump started only. The battery is dead so could it be a faulty clutch sensor/switch which shorted out or broke after the clutch fluid leak? please help :pirate arrrrrrr

http://www.rsvzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4893
I also read the thread above I will try to short the solenoid. I still don't understand why it woun't start, if it's the clutch switch/sensor shouldn't it start on neutral???? thanks in advance:rant
 
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If it were the clutch switch the starter wouldn't turn as it's earths the feed when active.

Don't know what year you bike is so problems can vary.

Post 04 bikes have a wiring issue that can deplete the battery to the point of the bike not running.

You could have a faulty batt/Starter solenoid but the solenoid wouldn't explain the cut out whilst riding.

Look at the sidestand switch, engine stop switch, tip over switch etc.
Does the fuel pump prime when you turn on the ignition ?

If the batt is faulty even jumping from a car won't start it. Just be careful you don't destroy the sprag trying to start it. Double check you batt is charged and not faulty before going much further.
 
2000 RSV and I think I stalled it while going 20mph I might have put it on the wrong gear, the shifter became so smooth It's hard to feel the gear change while listening music(bummer) It sounds like a robotic arm if that's what you are referring to the priming of the fuel pump. the sitestand light is not on. I willl check the engine stop switch previously I had to splash the handlebars to clean the clutch fluid so it won't mess up my paint according to my buddy. I think it might be the battery so if my battery is faulty it might not start from a car? that makes sense cuz it didn't start on chargeable starter or a car. crap. that might be the problem or the solenoid . I really pray that it's not the sprag. I will try to start it again. thanks Spoonz, :)
 
If fuel pump primes forget the tip over switch etc.

Either batt or starter solenoid i suspect. Batt most likely.
You bike is the 4 plug version so needs a very healthy batt to start with 4 plugs drawing juice.

A duff cell in the batt will drag down the current to the starter even when jumped from another source. Get the batt load tested and go from there.
 
Sounds like you may have a weak battery or when you splashed your bars to get rid of the spilt clutch fluid you have soaked the ignition electrics.

I did it last week when washing the road salt off the bike, the water had run down the frame all over the coils HT and LT.

I pulled all the HT leads out and gave them a squirt of WD40 to expel the water and refitted, fired up first time.
 
oh crap I started the wiring mod before trying to start the bike with fully charged battery and and I mixed the yellow cables from the Voltage Regulator to the Generator because I got sick today and I feel very retarted. so I disconnected all the yellow ones and they don't make any difference on my Dash Voltmeter. I tried to pair them many times and all I get is a Single Click. I tried to short the Solenoid and i get is the Fuel pump primes and sounds like it's squirting gas in the tank.I hope the hoses which I recently connected/fixed are not lose inside. They might have lost connection to the fuel pump and started floating on top of fuel after running low on fuel, that might explain the sudden stall. i will clean the connectors with WD40 and try to feed fuel with a funnel if I can make the motor turn over. i appreciate all of you guys especially Spoons and AMB.

A) would I **** up my wiring if I keep re-connecting the 3 yellow cable pair randomly to find out how they were connected before?
or do I need those yellow cables connected after cutting them apart eventhough my battery is fully charged?
arggggggggg
 
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The 3 yellow wires are the alternator to regulator wires, each one carry's about 85vac to the regulator where the ac is turned into dc to charge the battery. As far as I can remember it doesnt matter what order you join them together as its 3 phase ac voltage. However make sure they are well insulated from each other and the frame.
If you leave them disconnected the battery will discharge rather rapidly , but would not have an effect on starting the bike (as such), unless of course the battery is faulty. (Remember that even a new battery or a battery that shows good on an optimate might not be perfect)
 
thanks kiwi after fixing the starter positive connector which was arked now the motor turns over I will put the yellow cables back once I start the bike.I bought a new battery and I will try to start it again. :) Thanks God it turns over now!
 
thanks kiwi after fixing the starter positive connector which was arked now the motor turns over I will put the yellow cables back once I start the bike.I bought a new battery and I will try to start it again. :) Thanks God it turns over now!

Superyellow, those thick yellow wires from the generator to the rectifier can be connected in any order, so don't worry too much about that.

Don't try and start the bike or run the bike with those yellow generator cables disconnected, you could damage the stator assembly.

Can I offer you some advice, friendly advice it is too.

Just do one job at a time and then leave the bike be for a day or so to ensure no problems exist with what you have done.

Remember, Rome wasn't built in a day and master pieces take time to create.

Let us know if you need anything else!!
 
just resurrected my exotic sexy beast right after Cats PM as below
"Hi superyellow

Sorry, we don't have the emissions set up on our bikes over here. Reading what you have said, it sounds to me like the fuel is being fed direct to the emissions system and not to the throttle bodies themselves which would explain why the engine won't start, as it means the engine isn't getting any fuel. This would also explain the spark plugs being dry. It sounds like the fuel routing has possibly gone back together incorrectly. Can you take any pictures so I can see how the fuel hoses are routing to the throttle bodies?"

And the problem solved!!!!!! It was the undersized fuel hoses from Autozone! all of them popped out causing the fuel to go in the Emissions instead of the Fuel pump after the tank was 1/3 full!!!! Thank you all folks you guys are great! Now I'm going to go back and buy back my old battery for 10 bucks! Vroom Vroom Santa Monica here I come!
 
just resurrected my exotic sexy beast right after Cats PM as below
"Hi superyellow

Sorry, we don't have the emissions set up on our bikes over here. Reading what you have said, it sounds to me like the fuel is being fed direct to the emissions system and not to the throttle bodies themselves which would explain why the engine won't start, as it means the engine isn't getting any fuel. This would also explain the spark plugs being dry. It sounds like the fuel routing has possibly gone back together incorrectly. Can you take any pictures so I can see how the fuel hoses are routing to the throttle bodies?"

And the problem solved!!!!!! It was the undersized fuel hoses from Autozone! all of them popped out causing the fuel to go in the Emissions instead of the Fuel pump after the tank was 1/3 full!!!! Thank you all folks you guys are great! Now I'm going to go back and buy back my old battery for 10 bucks! Vroom Vroom Santa Monica here I come!

Glad you got it sorted mate, well done Cat, spot on advice as usual. :thumbup:thumbup
 
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