New to site need help

Hi just got a 2002 rsv and when I bought it it would not start because the solenoid was faulty.
So got a new solenoid then battery u/s got hew battery turns over but does not want to start.
Now can start it when first switched on but just dies completely after a minute or so.
What I did was accessed the diagnostic and found -1 code which reading some other comments on here is the chip.
Questions I dont know the answer to and some of you knowledgable people might be able to help me.
The ecu seems sealed
Is the chip inside the box
Do I need a new Ecu
Seems like fuel pump stops
Can I change just the chip
It has a removeable baffle and a bung in the exhaust should I remove these if so how do you rechip with a K & N filter?
I know lots of questions but seems as though you know what you are talking about on this site.
Hope someone can help as I have not even ridden it yet.

Thanks in anticipatuion
Mick :dunno

When the diagnostic wires are connected together ( under right hand seat panel ) Code -1 showing on the right hand clock display is the throttle position sensor reading at closed throttle. It will either be -1, 0 or +1 with 0 being the correct reading but unless the throttle position sensor is so far out of adjustment then i doubt it is this that's causing the bike to cut out after a miniute of running. It's worth checking the throttle position sensor is correctly adjusted though. Does the bike just simply cut out or does it stall when idling?

Thanks for coming ack to me it can be revving at 5 to 6 and it just dies as though someone hit the kill switch.
I did try it down the garages and got to 5k in first and it just died but now fault codes co
ame up switch it off and she will start again and the same happens but you have to switch on and off to get it restarted.
Mick

RSV's can suffer from faulty kill switches mainly due to corrosion setting in from the bike being kept outside. It could well be simply this. Try some WD40 in the switch and see if the problem improves. A new kill switch would then be needed as once they start to play up then there's not much that can be done

Hi
I shall now disappear into the garage and try that
THANKS
Mick

:dunno hello mick welcome to the zone and you have come to the right place,i hope you get it sorted.donnie.:thumbup

Hi
I have stripped the kill switch and all was fine took it completely apart no bad contacts and metered it not even high resistance and resoldered it and refitted
If it is the throttle position sensor where is it and what sort of resistance should I expect??

Found the problem now it was the kill switch which cuts the engine off if it falls over and when the battery was changed I must have put it back upside down.
But it was wiered that it would run for about a minute before cutting out but hey happy days now just change fluids brake clutch and rear master new oil and filters.
I normally use rock oil fully synthetic.
But hey guys thanks for all your help will put some pictures on when I get it up and running properly.

THANKS AGAIN
Mick

Welcome to the zone Mick, great news that you found the fault to be the tip over switch..well hunted down matey. Enjoy your Ape..ah 02 vintage too..now that was a good year :thumbup

Glad you got it sorted Mick. The TPS can easily be adjusted so that it reads 0 on the diagnostic check. Just remember to wind the idle adjustment knob all the way out before undoing the 2 TPS torq screws and tweaking the TPS a touch in the right direction until 0 reads on the dash. Remember then to screw back in the idle adjuster to reset idle on a warm engine to around 1200rpm and also to disconnect the 2 diagnostic wires

good fix guys!

ive just hada bike doin exactly the same in the workshop! 3rd time ive seen this fault, in 6 years! not bad odds is it!

Mmmm...Tip Switch..I just had the same the other week after stripping out the undertray. Put it all back together and it wouldn't fire. Didn't see the writting on the Tip basically saying "this way up"....:blush