New ownership questions rsv 2008

Welcome to the joys of riding an RSV.

The rear brake is generally rubbish, and it seems to be for two reasons: the master cylinder is horizontal, and the bleed nipple is located at the bottom of the caliper. This means it's notoriously difficult to bleed properly. Added to that, the line runs close to the exhaust, so making things worse. Even so, there's plenty of info about making work properly: check out this link http://rsvzone.com/forums/showthread.php?10384-Rear-brake-service-bulletin

Yes, Neutral is a little awkward to find. It seems that the space between first and second is very tight, but you should get used to it after a while.

Gearing is subjective, but the general consensus is that it's over-geared, so that it can reach 170mph. I've fitted a smaller front sprocket (15T instead of 16T), and it's definitely better for the road.

If you're finding false neutral between fifth and sixth, maybe your chain is too slack? Plus, you need to be quite positive with your foot, just to be sure.

From memory, the red line is at 11,000rpm, but to be honest, that's not the best way to ride a big twin; better to use the torque. Max power will vary depending on which engine map/exhaust you have fitted.

There is a slipper clutch system, but even so, I still think it's good practise to blip.

Neutral should be pretty much ok on an 08 bike. Sounds like you may have a little air at the M/C. Crack the bleed nipple just a touch with a little pressure on the lever and air might pop out.

There is an adjustable shift light which you can set to warn you of the red line or any desired shift point. The red line on these bikes is a hard limiter and the motors don't like it being used on a regular basis so better to shift before you hit it. As previosuly said it's a twin so you are well out of the meat of the torque before you get near the red so it's not a good way to make progress.

Re the false neutral. Try lowering your gear lever. 5th to 6th is a long throw change so needs apostive prod and a lower lever helps.

Maybe the gearbox will loosen up. I bought mine with 1500 miles on the clock, and the gearbox was ok but not as slick as jap stuff, neutral also a pain, but you get used to snicking into neutral as you pull up.
Now with 45,000 miles up the gearbox is very slick and even neutral easy to find. Do they need more running in than jap bikes? Dunno.

Hi Bud,

I have just started getting out om my 09 RSV this season, I have found that my 5th - 6th change is failing to engage properly when giving it some beans, didn't do it last year, but just started happening, quite annoying when overtaking, surely this must be common fault?

I'm on a 15t front sprocket - well worth doing for £20.

Front brakes on mine are the best I've ever experienced on any bike, they seem to make up for poor back brake really.

ride4fun said:

The rear brake is generally rubbish, and it seems to be for two reasons: the master cylinder is horizontal, and the bleed nipple is located at the bottom of the caliper. This means it's notoriously difficult to bleed properly. Added to that, the line runs close to the exhaust, so making things worse. Even so, there's plenty of info about making work properly: check out this link http://rsvzone.com/forums/showthread.php?10384-Rear-brake-service-bulletin

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Hi rad748,

Just to let you know that although this is a majority view, it's not a universal view...

The back brake on my '06 Factory is rock solid (though with a small diameter disc: 220mm versus e.g. my Multistrada's 245mm, it's not designed to be a major stopping force!).

Without wishing to hijack your thread, i'd just hint that IMHO it's an issue of how well the brake is bled. and that you can't do it correctly for the RSV's back brake with the calliper in situ!).

IMHO the most authoritative thread on bleeding is kzmille's: http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15500

BTW, I set my rpm indicator at 10k, as that's the power peak.

BTW2, I couldn't convince myself that the OEM slipper would work well enough, so I got myself a Sigma slipper (slippers for Christmas again, dear?). Splendid bit of kit.

BRG said:

Without wishing to hijack your thread, i'd just hint that IMHO it's an issue of how well the brake is bled. and that you can't do it correctly for the RSV's back brake with the calliper in situ!).

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Yes, removing the caliper to raise the bleed nipple above the the pipe union is a must, otherwise the air gets trapped. But the horizontal master cylinder layout is still poor design for the rear brake, and I have found that the heat from the exhaust also has a detrimental affect. For me, the pedal is solid when cold, and the brake works fine, but after a long ride, it's pathetic.

BRG said:

BTW, I set my rpm indicator at 10k, as that's the power peak.

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On an 08 RSV, the peak power, with standard cans/map 1 will be at 9,580rpm, and with a slip-on free-flowing can, e.g. Akrapovic, and map 2, it will be at 10,180rpm. So, where you set the indicator depends what you're running. ;-)

Fair comment ride4fun,

I'd have to confess, I don't use the rear brake much, but, subjectively, it's always been there for me since I started bleeding it myself.

Re the max power point, yes, I'd agree, it depends what you're running. Out of the crate, my '06 peaked at 10050. Now, after a lot of mods, it peaks at 9875, but has a flatter peak, so it's still working hard at 10k. (http://www.zen50505.zen.co.uk/RSVzone/Dyno_Nibelung1000_Nibelung1103_2008Ducati1098-recoloured.jpg)

If you're looking to maximise your acceleration (and I mean really maximise it), you need to examine the bike's cadence chart with respect to your gearing and run the engine to the point of overlap (which will vary from gear to gear) - assuming it'll withstand the necessary revs. I think this one's for the standard bike on 16/40 - but don't hold me to that! http://www.zen50505.zen.co.uk/brgw/features/2008OnTrack/pictures/Cadence-Std.jpg

BRG said:

Re the max power point, yes, I'd agree, it depends what you're running. Out of the crate, my '06 peaked at 10050. Now, after a lot of mods, it peaks at 9875, but has a flatter peak, so it's still working hard at 10k. (http://www.zen50505.zen.co.uk/RSVzone/Dyno_Nibelung1000_Nibelung1103_2008Ducati1098-recoloured.jpg)

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I'd love to know how you managed to get an extra 20hp. I am also aware that means you have better torque, too. ;-)

ride4fun said:

I'd love to know how you managed to get an extra 20hp. I am also aware that means you have better torque, too. ;-)

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I join the thread at post #26...... http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157673&page=2

BRG said:

I join the thread at post #26...... http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157673&page=2

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Now I know...that's a lot of work you've had done. I must admit, you can't beat the feel of a professionally tuned engine...I had one in a car several years ago, but not a bike (yet).

rad748 said:

Hi, another thing I noticed was how low the back of the bike felt. Felt like I was sat on a early fireblade. What do people have the ride height set to on the shock? I've changed from a cbr600rr and that felt alot higher at the back.

Cheers

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The back end usually sits quite high, so if it feels low, I'd suggest you check the pre-load for the rear spring is correct, in accordance with the handbook. If it is, then the only other possibility, that I can think of, is that the height has been lowered by a previous owner. Try checking that the linkages are standard, too.